Why a front locker?

You're doing this in 4hi right? Can't work harden the grain structure on the surface of the gear teeth if you aren't putting torque through it (whole purpose of gear break-in).

 

In 2WD

 

^Beware 2WD won't break-in the front diff gears properly. Hell, the ring and pinion aren't even turning thanks to ADD

 

@Yotaholic This thread has me jealous.
Currently trying to talk myself out of 35's and a regear

 

Do the 4.88 first even with stock tires lol.

 

Did like 3 miles in 4Hi, dead straight on dry pavement

 

^There's some backlash in the Eaton locker from what I read. Also the voltage has to be steady. A voltage drop can weaken the Eaton locker engagement and skip teeth, but that's in higher loaded applications (like 40" tires on a Dana 60).

 

You need to do 500 miles in 4hi to break in the front diff. If that's impractical, you can remove the rear driveshaft and putt around in FWD for 500 miles.

 

You're being a little too much bro lol

 

This is my setup for now.

 

The guy says use 85W140. Thats crazy

 

I think that's the recommended weight most re gears. At least for ECGS.

 

I am unable to find it.

 

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/ft-2536-ecgs-gear-oil-recommendation.html

 

Why no synthetic?

 

The dino surprised me also. I have always run synthetic.

Scientifically it has been proven that when measuring diff temps, the actual “metal objects” stay cooler using a quality dino oil with an additive package over synthetic oils. However it has been proven that synthetic “oils” can stay cooler then dino oil. So it depends on what temperature you measure the “metal” or the “oil” hence why both can claim they are better.

 

This is what ai found

 

Pumping that thick gear oil is not going to be any fun.

 

The first number is close to the standard diff oil (75/80 whatever), so it shouldn't feel that different in the bottle. It's the second number, how it acts at high temperature where it's thicker.

So it's not that it's thicker, per se, but it doesn't fall apart at temp. I've used it in a pinch in other gear oil applications, didn't really notice a difference in handling it.

 

21 MPG driving at 50 miles an hour

 

^Thanks Yotaholic! This is what I've been waiting for!

RPM and Fuel consumption at 50, 60, 70, 80. Hell 90 if you can swing it!

 

90 only when I go to Montana

 

Did I miss you recalibrating your speedo/cluster for the tire size - without that your dash is useless. You need to manually calculate mileage, and use a calculator to figure out your actual speed.

 

I think that's what he does already.
As to why he sends a photo of the dash when the numbers he manually calculated are different? No idea

 

4Lo, traction control off, front locker engaged. It would have been elegant if I had aired down, but I didn't do it in this stupid rain. Not bad for 44 psi. Browse my other videos if you want to see how A-Trac did this same obstacle


https://youtu.be/91xqB0l17Bc?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/JgRAB6q_TJQ?feature=shared

 

That's why I said 21, not 19 that the speedometer says. Larger tires have slowed down my speedometer.

 

So differential gears generally don’t get some sort of surface-hardening treatment?

 

I'm sure it's not, but that sounds terrifying on my 60k truck lol

 

Interesting!