Ignition cyclinder issue?

New here. Been lurking on a few different 4 Runner and Toyota forums over the past couple weeks and decided I liked this place the best.

Was just gifted a 99 limited from a friend. Said all I have to do is get it off the property and its mine. 92k original miles.

The vehicle had been sitting for 1.5 years. I charged the battery, installed it and attempted to see if it would turn over.

The problem I am having is that the key he gave me will not turn in the ignition cylinder. The steering wheel will not unlock.

I also find it interesting that the key will also not turn in the driver door, passenger door, rear door, or even the glove box. He swears it is the correct key.

If it is the correct key, what could possibly be preventing the ignition cylinder from turning?

Thanks!

 

Here is a pic of the key for reference:

 

I can't be sure from the picture, but I've had keys worn badly enough that they won't work. You might be able to get a new key cut. Sometimes the cylinder needs replacing instead. I did that fix once on a '76 Nova.

 

I think a new key cut with the title VIN is like $35 from the dealer.

 

But being a Limited it should have an alarm remote?

 

It's definitely the wrong key.

If it was the right key, it would unlock something.

My key is like 10 times more worn than that one and unlocks everything on my car.

Take the Title to the dealer and have them cut a key from the vin.

 

Thanks for the replies.

I don’t think he has the remote for it. I’m also not sure if this is a chipped key. I’ve read that a chipped key was an option for that year. Not sure how this would affect a cylinder swap considering security features.

The back story on this vehicle:

My friend purchased it a couple years back with 80k on it. Did a bunch of work to it including all the off road accessories. New bilstien shocks all the way around, new brakes, new tires, some new suspension components in the rear, etc.

He takes it to a local off road park to play around and gets stuck in about 3.5’ of water. He’s only in the water (with the engine running) for about 5 minutes before he gets winched out.

He drove the vehicle home, parked it, opened the doors and let it air out for a few days. Then started it back up, drove it out front and parked it. Thats where it has sat ever since.

The interior will need to be completely ripped out. If I can get this started I’ll go to work on the fluids and go from there.

 

Maybe an alarm brain under the driver's seat?

 

based on the water damage I can see on the interior it looks like there was probably about 6-8” of water inside the vehicle.

 

It will still work. Just get the remote and reprogram. Worth a shot?

 

It sounds like it’s worth a shot, however I must admit that I am completely ignorant concerning this vehicle, as well as it’s alarm features.

Do you think the alarm brain could survive the water exposure?

 

I have the manual for the alarm.

 

So I should go to the dealership with the title and vin, and get a new remote? Then reprogram? And the reprogramming process is something I do on my end?

Thank you for your help btw.

 

I replaced my remote.

 

Did he extend the rear diff vent? If not, the rear def is probably full of water. You need to drain and refill before it takes out the axle seals.

I don't think there are any chips in 3rd gen keys.

 

I dont think water would hurt it or they would not put it there.

 

This is a known issue for people who add the snorkel and then go fording. The rear differential sucks up water and the axle seals go bad.

You MUST extend the vent.

 

No I mean the alarm brain. Under the seat is pron to get wet. They know that. Usually the circuit board is sealed.

 

Gotcha.

 

Thank you!

I will take a look at it again tomorrow and find out.

I doubt he is nuanced enough to know those types of details. Also, I’m certain he made none of these modifications himself. Love him but he’s not a hands on guy.

I’m going into this under the assumption that all fluids need to changed. Diffs, transmission, transfer case, etc.

 

I read that chipped keys were an option on Camery’s of that era. So I just assumed it was likely an option on the 4 runner as well. I could be completely wrong.

 

@SR5 Limited @negusm @backpacker

A quick vid:


https://youtu.be/nQCNA972LbY?si=MJX6QQvOowi16VmK


This was my very first look at this vehicle a few days ago.

Notice the mouse at 1:29.

 

Just an FYI, you will have to prove ownership before the dealership will cut you a new key from the VIN number, I had them cut one for my T4R a few weeks ago.

 

Got the key working today by spraying some wd40 into the cylinder. Tried the same thing on the door locks to no avail.

Checked all the fuses. All the electronics appeared to work.

starter solenoid clicks but the motor won’t turn. Probably a bad starter. So far so good….

 

Just got her started!

tapped on the starter motor a few times and she fired right up. Did a couple laps around the yard and she seems very sluggish. I suspect it’s the old gasoline.

gonna borrow a pump from a friend and see if I can empty the tank.

She is LOUD. Peaked underneath and the muffler isn’t even connected.


@negusm I looked at the rear differential and tried to find the ventilation tube. What does it look like and where would it be located?

 

Look on top of the diff and just a little driver's side.....should see the vent sticking out.

 

Found it! Thanks!

Theres definitely no extension connected to it so I have to assume this diff is full of water.

diff cover looks very crusty. Probably going to have to replace that too.

 

Wow! That's rusty!

 

Had a chance to play around with it a little more this evening.

The stereo seems to be functioning. Haven’t tried CD or cassette yet.

The aftermarket fog lights appear to be working fine.



I wasn’t getting any voltage from the circuit that runs the LED light bar on the roof.

All four power windows are functional. Have not yet tried the rear.

Sun roof tried to open. Hopefully its just dirty and the seals are stuck.

Still no luck on the door lock or glove box cylinders. I tried lubricating before inserting. I read this is the polite thing to do.

The user interface for the climate control system is definitely not operating properly.

At one point I was able to get the blower motor to engage but it was noisy and struggling so I shut it down. It sounded like there was some physical obstruction on the blower wheel.

The oil looked good. No signs of water.

At this point I am concerned about the transmission, transfer case, and differentials more than anything else. Especially considering that they were submerged for a short period of time.

Trans fluid looked ok to me but I wouldn’t know the nuances of what to look for. Curious to know what you guys think:



I just became aware that the rear differential cover is not removable. I imagine it’s the same for the front. I was looking forward to learning how to service them myself. What a bummer.

 

Tranny fluid looks awesome. Someone at least had it changed at certain intervals. I was a bad boy and changed mine at 250k miles and it was black like motor oil.