Lifespan of front end parts?

I'm going to be installing, or most likely just paying somebody to do it, my lift and Super Pro lower control arms in the next month or so. The lift looks fairly easy to install, but I really do not want to mess with the lower control arms.

I'm at 168k miles, on a 2013.

Anything else I should do while I'm in there? What's the typical lifespan of the in and outer tie rods and wheel bearings? I'm thinking definitely the tie rods, since I'm going to have to have it aligned anyway, and since it'll be apart, might be a good time to do the wheel bearings.

I may end up replacing the upper control arms as well, I kind of don't want to, but since I'm doing the lowers it might be nice to have a new uppers as well. Most likely JBA, as long as they won't give me any tire clearance issues with stock wheels.

Thanks!

 

If you’re in there pulling the parts out, and they are serviceable, then it might not hurt to change them out.

If you’re not touching the parts and they aren’t broken or worn beyond service, leave them be.

Alignments aren’t overly expensive to do again.

 

You can really tell a lot by just looking at some of those things. For example, if the boots on the tie rods and upper and lower ball joints look weathered, dry rotted or anything other that supple, it might be a good time to change them. Also check the CV axle boots, and bellows on the steering rack. Same inspection. The tire wiggle test will tell you about the integrity of said joints. It seems like on my 2011, I started changing things out at about 140-150K. I have 180,xxx on it now. I've replaced outer tie rods, upper and lower ball joints, wheel bearings, and sway bar end links. The thing is tight.

 

I am in the same boat and looking to replace suspension parts in my 2011. Any idea if the coils need to be replaced at higher mileage? No visible rusts,cracks or other damage to them.
I do need new shocks, tie rods, uca/lca and sway bar links.

 

If you're not lifting, no need to replace the springs. Visual inspection checks out, you should be good. Do they lose some of their rebound over time? Yes. If its a concern, you can buy a preloaded spring/strut. Meaning they come already assembled. Often times that's the easiest way to go for the front. Removing the spring is a sketchy operation for DIY. Don't attempt if you have no experience. If I were in your shoes, I would look at Bilstein 5100 shocks all around. They give you the option for leveling with adjustable spring perches, and they're a good platform to build on if you decide you want a lift later on.

 

What makes you think you need new UCA/LCA? I'm still running original LCA with original bushings. And if the bushings weren't good, that's all I would replace.

 

Need new bushings and lower ball joints. It is recommended to change the entire control arm.
I ll have a shop do this for me.

 

I think it depends how you drive and on what surface.
My SPC upper ball joints failed in a year/ 10k miles. Ditching them and going with Apache off road that can use OEM ball joints.
After 30k miles I had to replace a tie rod end. The joint was in good condition but the boot was ripped.
Everything else looks good.

As much as I'd like to say if it ain't broke don't fix it... you may as well give the whole thing a refresh.
170K isn't a ton for the 4R as a whole, but it is a lot for service parts.

Tie rods (inner and outer)
UBJ/ LBJ
Sway bar end links.
Maybe wheel bearings as well since you're there.
Might consider rotors and pads if you're doing wheel bearings.

 

I tend to agree with @1SilverRunner . I ended up doing all of mine sort of piece meal, one thing at a time. Some things just weren't bad. Having to do it all over again, which in time I will, I'll just replace damn near everything at the same time.

 

Jba uca do have a wheel offset requirement. And I'm not sure they work with stock wheels. (I have jbas but also have -12 wheels and there's plenty of clearance.) But you might be better just finding oem takeoffs. If your not lifting to high, oem uca should be just fine.

 

I'm in New England, I'm pretty certain that the cam bolts in the LCA are going to be frozen. I would also feel more comfortable knowing that there are new lower ball joints in it.

As far as the UCA, I figure if I'm replacing everything else, those ball joints are still going to have 170k miles on them. I only want to lift 2 inches, so hopefully I won't need aftermarket arms to compensate for the lift.

 

Oh that sucks about the JBA's needing certain wheels. I really like the wheel design on my Trail, I don't want to replace them. (I also don't want to spend 800 or $1,000 on wheels)

I have the Eibach 2.0 coil overs, I want to keep them at its lowest setting, 2" front.

 

Yeah. You all deal with a whole lot more salt. I'm spoiled being out west. Totally makes sense.

 

I drive pretty conservatively, and it's pretty much strictly a mall crawler. I have a 60 mi commute everyday, and only hit the trail a few times a year. (Unfortunately)

I did brakes this past July, new pads, rotors and calipers.

I think are things like sway bar and links and tie rod ends are fairly cheap. I don't know if it needs wheel bearings, though. It does seem like it's getting louder on the highway. My tires are nearing 60k miles, so it could be that too, I'm not sure if Grabber ATX's tend to get louder as they wear.

Once I get the lift and suspension work done, then it's time for new tires. Not sure about size, I really want to go 255/80, but really don't want to run an E-load.

I briefly thought about trading this in on a Gladiator before I needed to do any of this work, but I came to my senses and remembered how much I hate having a car payment. So I'll probably be keeping this for another four or five years at least, so I'll have to do all this work eventually.

I remember having a discussion with you about the upper control arms, when you get those Apaches, please post up some photos in your review, I'm curious about them.

 

I'm so jealous of you people out west, for multiple reasons. Must be nice not having you your vehicle turn into a rusty piece of crap in a few years, lol.

I'm also jealous of all the wide open space and public land you all have out there.

 

Yeah I wouldnt assume it needs wheel bearings personally. You can hear or feel when those start to go. If brakes are good the only things you can refresh are ball joints, tie rods and sway bar end links. All of which are fairly cheap.

 

You'll know it. It's different than tire noise. You'll hear wheel bearing noise and slight vibration when you "load up" the suspension. In other words, you'll hear an increase in the noise when turning on the outside wheel. Mine made it to 167,000. I ended up installing Blue Pit Bearings. The bearing and hub comes all pressed together. Kind of expensive, but they're also OEM bearings and hubs. That's something I would DEFINITELY go OEM on.

 

To clarify, I also had 1.25" spacers on. People will argue that spacers make no difference. I disagree. I think they led to the eventual failure of my wheel bearings. I took them off and purchased the correct wheels when I replaced the wheel bearings.

 

^ Yup, spacers = bigger moment arm

 

Don't spacers have the same effect of a wheel with the same effective offset? Other than weight, wouldn't it be exactly the same?

I don't see how it would be any different...

 

Anything which moves the contact patch farther outboard from the hub face will increase the moment arm. So spacer or offsets.

 

And this is the age old argument.

 

This is helpful thx for this.
I have tires slowly getting louder and 1.25 spidertrax. will keep this in mind as I keep listening

 

Interesting

 

I was hoping to learn something new xD pretty sure it makes no difference

^If im reading this right then it in fact makes no difference

 

That's a lotta money! Haha
Good for you man can't wait to see the after photos.

I had new AC Delco outer, and inner tie rods + bellows installed 11 months ago. Driver side is spewing grease out of the boot and zerk periodically and especially recently.
How often do you grease an outer tie rod balljoint?
"Every oil change" isnt the answer I'm looking for cuz that number is different for different folks.
Thx

 

At the very least, it's creating an extra hinge joint. Personally I'm not comfortable with it. I followed all of SpiderTrax's instructions to re-torque at every tire rotation, red lock-tite, etc. I am by no means saying SpiderTrax puts out a shitty product. Anything to decrease rotational mass has to improve bearing life. I got rid of the spacers and went with a lighter/higher quality wheel. When these tires are gone, I'm also going with a narrower tire.

 

Totally agree with the extra weight and extra failure point. Those are reasons enough to avoid them. And I do avoid them.
I don't think hubcentric spacers create an extra hinge point though

 

Sorry I hijack, just tapping into a hotspot for educated suspension and driveline folks here

10,000 miles maybe
That'd be 16,100 kms.
(The grease I see is hopefully old extra grease expelling from release valve which is ok. I don't see boot trips, and they're not slipping down).
Moog video
https://youtu.be/TFO5KYoCN6I?si=s9ec2X3rhSsz84jv