2 stuck 19mm knuckle bolts, cant remove CV axle, 03 4runner

Disclaimer: Seeking professional advice please, no guess work. Thank you. Known success stories welcome on this issue.

I'm doing maintenance work on my Mother's 2003 4runner sr5 v6.
I'm replacing the driver's side CV axle. Everything went well except when I got to the step of removing the two 19mm bolts on the bottom knuckle, both located either side of the ball joint.
I was attempting with a DeWalt XR DCF900 impact gun, which is extremely powerful even on setting #1. I had it on setting #1 for lowest torque and nothing. Tried #2 setting. Nothing, and bolt head was beginning to show signs of stress around bolt head hex edges, so I stopped. Bolts are not coming loose. Im doing lefty loosey, not righty tighty.
So I soaked them in PB blaster over and over and plan tomorrow to heat with map gas on bolt heads.
Anyone got professional advice? Should I just use a 1/2 ratchet and my 19mm socket and do it by hand? Or should i call a mobile mechanic? I am just as capable as a mechanic, but I don't know the procedure.
I can't use setting #3 on my impact. That's 1,030 ft-lbs. of max fastening torque and 1,400 ft-lbs. of max breakaway torque on setting #3, and it will no doubt do more harm than good. If it doesn't break them loose, it will break them off. I can't risk this. It's my Moms only car.

 

Use a breaker bar. Harbor Freight carries them fairly cheap.

Torque setting for those is 166 ftlbs per the manual.

Install the front lower ball joint attachment LH with the 2
bolts.
Torque: 225 NVm (2,290 kgfVcm, 166 ftVlbf)

 

Torch until red to soften the Loctite, then use the impact. Use a deep socket with no adapters or swivels.

I got mine off a few times with a Milwaukee 3/8" drive impact, but my Tacoma was newer.

 

Thank you. Ok great, do I concentrate heat only on the bolt head or heat up the knuckle around it too?

166 ftpds? wow I was hitting those bolts with 600+ break away foot pounds on setting #2 and nothing moved. thats why I stopped. I could've snapped it on #2 if held on it long enough. I think these fasteners are tripple rated by their torque rating. at least that's what osha requires . 2 times or 3 times it's rating. So a snap was close by. #3 wouldve caused instant issues.
This torque gun is crazy strong. It'll break your wrist if you're not careful.

I was using 19mm on a short swivel so I'll do it without that. I forgot about the direct torque rule.

Thanks for the response guys!

 

The torque amount on that impact is relative to lots of variables. Frozen fasteners change the formula in regards to available.

As above, since you have already applied penetrating oil, the next step, I too would use, is applying heat along with A 1\2 breaker bar.

As requested above, this is based off of actual professionals advice.

Keep us updated and good luck.

 

Heat the area around the bolt to " expand " that area and pull in some of the lubricant you applied which will in turn assist in breaking it loose.

 

Thanks for that. Thank God you guys answered. I feel much better with the breaker bar because I can stop if I feel what the bolt is doing or not doing. I'm positive the XR can break it free but it may break it altogether.
Looks like a good plan so far so I'll update you all soon.

I do have a question. Is there ANY other way to get the CV axle out? I must remove these bolts as I understand it..

 

ok exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!

 

UPDATE: As some recall I tried using my DeWalt DCF900 XR torque gun to bust these 2 knuckle bolts loose on 03 4runner so I could remove my CV axle.
So I went out and bought a breaker bar and huge pry bar (pry bar I needed for suspension later on).
So I ended up soaking he hell out of the bolts with PB Blaster and scrubbed away dirt/rust with a wire brush, then soaked again. For 3 days I soaked the bolts, spaying once or twice in the day and once at night. I mean I overdid it on the PB.
Today the bolt heads looked completely different. You could see normal color metal now. No rust. So curious I took my gun, set it to Wrench mode (precision mode) on my gun which is gradual slow torque and without using any heat or anything the bolts busted loose immediately! As soon as I pulled the trigger! tried the other one, it busted loose too!
Wow! That dang ol good PB Blaster is insane stuff. my gun wouldn't budge these bolts on #1 or #2 setting which even #1 is super powerful. #2 is unreal power and THAT didn't work.
Wrench mode is just a soft gradual step up of torque and it busted it loose in a split second. It was more like it was the PB Blaster that did it. The PB had made it's way up the bolt threads. I could see it crept up into about 2 or 3 thread lengths up so it reduced the torque needed to break it free for sure.
I'm actually writing this update because of how amazed I am. Prior to PB Blaster these bolts did not move at all on 2 out of 3 torque settings. Keep in mind this gun has a break away record of 1700lbs. It's not even rated for that. It's rated for peak of 1400lbs. I had around 800lbs of break away on those bolts and nothing. I was prepared to use a breaker bar but I was trying dumb luck and dumb luck turned into bolts out.
I completed removing/installing a new CV axle and a butt load of other work. I was happy.
These bolts did have auto grade thread locker on them (white color). I used a couple drops of blue locker per bolt when I reinstalled them. I cleaned them with pure alcohol prior to installing.
SHOUT OUT TO PB BLASTER.