Are there additional Firewall wiring pass-thru locations?

Yes, the OEM 22mmX33mm switches fit, not just their switches. The three slot version fits in the smaller upper cubby and may be all you need (since you say you only need to add three). Otherwise, the 6 slot version fits in the bottom cubby and you could throw some blanks in, leaving room for future expansion.

 

Bro

 

@channel

Where should I mount the new fuse block?

If I specifically choose my location for short mounting screws, I figure I should be able to mount on top of Relay & Fuse box lid. That would be my most convenient location, any qualms

 

Mount it there and remember to leave enough wire length so that you can access the main box!

 

If my cables all enter termination from the top side, I can still take the lid off eh

 

https://www.4runners.com/threads/wh...h-gen-4runner-today.2261/page-966#post-542051

 

Got any pics of your front end without the lights on? Curious what the behind the grill lights looks like turned off in the day time.

 

I don't mean to completely change your plans but figured best to share my findings to make you aware of different options.
I am in the process to fully reorganizing my auxiliary wiring because I too am currently using the relay harnesses that come with various lights. But this means that the engine bay is a mess of various wires and harnesses...
I've gone down a rabbit hole of trying to make everything look OEM looking and clean, including the engine bay. The BlueSea components are nice but they certainly do not look OEM and you are still left with individual relays needing a place to be mounted. The all in one systems (SPod, STech, Switch Pros, etc) are a simplified solution but I don't like the switch panel for the interior. I was able to find these prewired fuse/relay boxes on Amazon and I am highly considering them. I just have to figure out how many circuits I need.

$59 Pre-Wired 12V Fuse Relay Box 15 Slots, Universal Relay Box ATC/ATO Fuse Holder & 10 Slots Relay Panel with Relay, Waterproof Fuse and Relay Box Kit for Automotive Boat Car Truck

https://www.amazon.com/Fuse-Relay-Box-15-Slots/dp/B0CBS7DL58?smid=A3OJFZIR34OOFN

$27 WYPabiqis 12V Automotive Fuse And Relay Box, with Pre-Wires, Fuse Relay Block, Universal Fuse Block and Relay Kit for Cars Trucks Marine Boat

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BV1KX1P...trial&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw&th=1

PowerTrays also seems to make a universal switch panel tray that should fit the 6-relay box (second link above). This would eliminate the need to drill into the factory fuse box.
https://www.powertrays.com/collecti...-switch-panel-powertray-4runner-fj-cruiser-gx

 

Wow. 10 relay pre-wired. Wish I knew about that before I had to wire up and assemble my 6 relay box. This turned out to be an amazing thread full of great resources.

He's got a really good point. You don't want to do this again and you want to make it look right. Might be a good time to pump the brakes and evaluate how you want the end result to look.

 

Hey thanks my man
This is very helpful information, nice products.
So I mean, this is all a lot more money especially to a Canadian address. I know my interior looks close to factory, but I'm not married to factory look (just look at the rest of my truck lol). And the engine bay isn't going to look factory as soon as you add light loads and aftermarket devices anyhow. I'm actually happy with my relays and wiring, it's strapped pretty neatly. And off to the side I've bolted the relays to existing M8 holes through the mounting tab attached to the relays. I'm doing the same with 2-3 more relays, all mounted in the same factory bolt area off to the side.

I like my wiring harness of choice, they're not expensive, I've used the same brand/sku for all my offroad lights. They have longer length wires than many competitors I've seen, and the relay, fuse, and switch come wired from factory.
Powertray is pretty expensive tho, I'm happy with even using double sided velcro to stick fuse block to fuse/relay lid. If not on top of the lid, then mounting above that near the relays is what I want to do. I think that's the same area ThaCrow utilized.

I'm content with making one change which is relocate the positive and ground cables from the battery terminal/ground screw, to a fuse block. I have 2ft copper 5awg cables that will wire the fuse block to the battery. Mounting the fuse block close by makes this a fast job.

In consideration of my time, and money:
-Fuse block doesn't break the bank
-All in one wire harnesses (1-light & 2-light) save me time and money, are safe, and are in stock locally
-OE dash switches were affordable on Amazon and 4RunnerLifestyle or wherever, and look nice
-call me crazy, call it overkill, but I've had the ideas for these last few offroad lights for quite some time, keeping with dash switches (inexpensive switch panel)
-my offroad lights look nice but they're not expensive, and aren't wild wattage

-ultimately me and most people were happy with my handywork, neatness, and methods until I opened my big mouth about incorporating 3 more lights. LOL
This thread is awesome, please keep all the advice coming, that's my two cents

 

Sure thing bud, see attached
(to answer the next inevitable question; they are mounted solely with good quality zip ties, did not/could not use the light mounts in this area. There are grille light bar bracket products, but again, I haven't broken the bank)

 

Thanks again for all the help buddy

I used this advice while shopping for fuse, breaker, and wire solutions.
Ordered Blue Sea Systems 100A Breaker.
Looks like the brand of fuse block I'm sticking with is based out of Texas, manufactured in China. But I'm satisfied with it's power ratings and interconnects, to run my lights.

Now, after the glorious TeamTechOffroad link @PJSnow sent, only $45 plus switches, I've emailed the company for CAD shipping price on the 3-switch upper cubby!

After all this I may scratch the flush mount dash switch panel idear @coryanderson thanks

https://stechswitch.com/accessories/

 

Blue Sea Systems (BSS) has a good reputation from what I've seen in my searches. I have one of their marine grade quick cutoff switches that I've still got on my to-do list for the 4runner.

Going to put it between the winch and the battery, which is currently just hard-wired to the battery.

No issues in 3+ years but others have pointed out that in a front end crash the severed wire could turn into an arc welder, or a failed winch solenoid could result in a runaway winch. Figured it would be a good safety feature

 

Waiting for CAD shipping and duties from TeamTechOffroad @PJSnow
By far the most factory looking solution. Might be worth the investment, particularly in my build

 

How many amps does your winch use and do they make breakers suitable?

 

I just installed a Warn solenoid for my winch.

$67 WARN 63001 Replacement Solenoid for Power Interrupt Kit , Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OV4NT4

I have about an 8-10" lead that is not fused right now, but I would like to.

Warn Specs: (https://www.factor55.com/p-warn-winch-103253):
MAX AMP DRAW 358 Amp Draw At 1000 Pound

 

I did the same but it's not a fuse. I don't ever intend to add fuse but I see it talked about so I'm curious of anyone has don't it. I've never seen a fused winch, or at least not one for a car where it takes around 400 amps.

 

I haven't seen a lot of winch setups, but I feel like the wire going to the solenoid should be fused. In the event of an accident, that 8-10" wire can easily become a fire hazard.

I plan to add this setup in the near future.

$25 Blue Sea Systems 5136 400 Amp ANL Fuse

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2NZAU

$48 Blue Sea Systems 5503 ANL 35A to 750A Fuse Block with Insulating Cover, 7.0'' x 2.0''

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VIVWAW

 

I think if you're doing something like this where the solenoid is bolted to a bracket on the battery, you would need an accident with enough crushing and damage where you would have significant and similar risk for a fire anyhow. I think my winch says it pulls up to 460 amps (looks like there is a 500amp one but at that point, thats the limit of the battery so its not really doing anything) What I didn't like about those fuses is now the wire is connected to that thing sticking off the battery and...... 1: doesn't seem very strong, 2: now you have exposed metal off the battery and then 3: imo perhaps no better safety.

Again I like the idea I just haven't seen anything done with a fuse on it. Lot of talk about it though.

 

Looks like my winch draws 415 amps at max pull. The instruction booklet says 380 @ 10k lbs (it's a 10k winch) and looks like it has a 500 amp solenoid per their site.

The Blue Sea Systems battery switch I have is # 6006200. It's rated 300A continuous, 500A intermittent (5 min), and 900A cranking (30 sec) so I think it should be fine.

 

I bought the C4 engine bay bracket raw and rattle canned it with high temp paint. My plan is to mount the BSS quick cutoff switch with a short jumper over to the battery. Will also use the bracket to mount the outlet for ARB diff breather kit when I get around to installing that too

 

Dang I just missed this on a 4RunnerLifestyle.com order.
But I found it in Canada locally at a 4x4 shop 94.99 CAD.
You redneck USA folks get it for $49 USD on C4 website. MUST BE NICE

Thank-you sir's

https://overlandgarage.ca/products/...y-accessory-tray-driver-side-for-2010-4runner
https://www.4runnerlifestyle.com/products/c4-engine-bay-accessory-tray-driver-side-2010-2019

 

got double ditch lights to wire now
dialed in their clearance when hoods opened

 

Fuses information, dropping this here for me

https://imgvehicle.com/toyota/4runner-v-n280/fuse-box
https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInf...nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_what_is_tis_page