Are there additional Firewall wiring pass-thru locations?

I hear ya, I really like your other options you posted links about. Very clean. I hadn't heard of them, but I know now! Lol

I actually still have a flush mount two button panel arriving soon, that I was going to cut in same as you mentioned - next to where your winch button is. Then I ordered a three button in surface mount housing too. We'll see if that three button takes up too much space or is too uncomfortable to reach depending where I mount.

As for the fuse block, all my light loads are not high wattage/amperage, and every one of them has a wiring harness with relay, fuse, and switch.
So the fuse block provides 12v pos, and ground for each one.

 

I'm measuring now, gunna actually order these to try
Thanks for your perspective

 

I was looking into a 3-5 button panel myself. Seems small enough if you're using the small factory style switches. But on hold as I'm not sure what I want to do with lights and everything. I've done a fair amount of off road driving and camping and I've never driven at night off road. I've even meant to just leave camp and night to drive around to use my light bar and upgraded fogs but I always forget, or there's too much going on with setting up camp, cooking or just wanting to relax. Might not even do any more lights....anyhoo...at the same time rock lights look cool just to have....

So like, the load of the light is on everything in the circuit. It's good that you have the fuses, but everything needs to be able to handle the load. The push button factory style switches you have typically can handle 3 amps. (i think based on my memory, but you need to confirm what you have and what it can handle). A light bar should pull more than this and will short your switch before it blows your fuse. But as I'm typing this I remember you have relays under the hood mounted on the fender (yep just checked 3 relays there) so maybe you have this covered already.

Those relays going to connect to your switches? what do the relays do / what are they powering?

 

@OP: You did such a good job keeping everything factory looking, it would be a shame to cut into the factory plastics at this point. If nothing else, at least look into the Team Tech Off Road options (i hyperlinked them below). They allow the use of factory style switches (that you are currently using) in the useless center stack cubbies. I'm using their scangauge mount which has an extra switch slot and it looks great. You could add 6 switches to the lower cubby or 3 switches to the upper (smaller) cubby.

 

@PJSnow that's really cool. I wish I knew about that sooner. Thank you for posting! Super clean. I personally don't use that space at all and its great to have an option for the passenger to be able to reach the switches.

 

Nice looking fuse block, but I'd be a bit concerned about your Hot and Ground side leads. They look pretty small for the number of circuits you have coming off of them.

 

Hey dude I appreciate bringing that up. The more information the better, as I've changed gears on my product choices already twice.
But,
The the size of the hot and ground leads look to be the same as Blue Sea Systems leads (even on the 12 circuit block). And it sounds like Blue Sea is popular and trusted on this website. I'm not concerned, yet.

 

@Too Stroked

 

Another thing to keep in mind as well when buying from Amazon is a lot of the less expensive wires is copper clad aluminum. You really gotta search for pure copper wire and make sure you get it if you've added up all your loads and selected the gauge based on your total amps because aluminum wire cant handle the same amps per gauge.

 

Good point as well, thanks dude

Read: check
Update to do list: check
Thank ThaCrow: check

 

@Thacrow
@Too Stroked
And everyone

I was wrong, it is available on Amazon.ca - just found a 6 circuit fuse block made by Blue Sea

*Doesn't look to have amperage differences between the two, and I can't find the exact copper wiring quantity written in all the Amazon information.

Both 30A/circuit
Both 100A/block

 

Hey dude, thanks for being active and posting a lot. I wish this were a more active community like the Taco forums. Needs more people like you.

I think most people size the positive from the battery to the fuse block for the max capacity. 100amp. It's what i did. I don't think i'll ever have 100amps but i cant tell the future. You could always size for the total amps of your build and maybe thats 20 amps. Why pay for more expensive wire if you don't have to? probably smarter. Just need to make sure to upgrade that wire in the future if you add more stuff.

If you want to size for max load, 100 amps, you should do 8 gauge pure copper per the sizing charts. You should have a 100amp fuse on the wire as close to the battery as possible. You can see that in the picture I posted. Also in the pic I posed is a breaker next to the fuse block which is nice because you can cut power really easily if you are messing with it, or you just remove the positive or negative from the battery of course.

 

Thanks for that. I should probably take my activity level down to a non-obsessive level.
And I'm stoked you just saved me some math.

So I hit princess auto earlier, bought inverter cables. Just checked now. By chance I think they're up to spec:

5 AWG
2 ft
Conductor Material: Oxygen-free Copper

 

@djwantke
Hey Derek, not sure if you have seen this link, I have been looking at it as a rough guide for what I want to do. I don't want to use one of the premade switch panels, trying to keep it all factory looking, similar I think to what you are going for.
https://trail4runner.com/2020/01/03/diy-switch-panel-switch-pros-spod-alternative/

 

Hey Nate!
Dude this is great, haven't sent this yet. Thanks.
I just bought and received this part of it,
thumbnail below



I have kept everything factory looking yes. Problem is I've used up every factory dash switch slot.
So I know there's other options to keep the OE look going, but I'm happy expanding to aftermarket switch panels. I didn't invest in a Switch Pro or Brite box from the beginning and likely never will. I don't wanna rip apart the dash, again, so I'll likely keep switches left of driver. I'm big in customizing tho, so perhaps I can custom fit something where the useless center cubbies are. Same goes for under the hood, I'm already invested in my product direction, methods, so god help me!

 

@rageandlove big thanks for this, I just started eyeing recently, that exact passenger side boot/grommet. I did the same as they show in the article on the drivers side; squeezed in gaps and then cut the nipple off and went through.
I think I'ma have to do both of these hacks to fit 3+ medium diameter wire jackets/sheaths.

 

@PJSnow
These look really nice, do you know if the slots fit an OE size Toyota switch or just the switches they offer?

 

This^

 

@PJSnow
I've been so lucky with this thread, gaining information.
I really like this idea

I could return flush mount switch panel, and go this route. It looks like it fits the exact rocker switch type I purchased and like. If it fits OEM 4R dash switches (small type, not long type), I could even go that route even more factory...

 

It looks like they are the same size as OEM openings

 

You should just buy the mictuning switch panel. It cleans everything up under your hood and is pretty small for the amount of switches it has.

$116 MICTUNING 12 Gang Switch Panel P1S-B12 Blue 80Amp 960/1920W Toggle/Touch ON-Off Momentary Circuit Control Relay Box for Camper RV ATV SUV UTV Truck Car Marine, 2 Years Warranty

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C4HB47H...8C418C7EFC145687536D933DE103C2649FFE5B0B&th=1

 

Whoa
See like this in their 8 button model for me would be so nice. I read the specs, these things are amazing. Handles safety concerns too.
But
It falls into the category, and direction of completely re-investing money that said I'm not interesting on doing. As well as slightly ripping apart dash again. I like the factory look left of driver. I just need to expand by 3. Probs my wont have any more switches after this except winch control.

 

You do you, but it seems like you're chasing your tail here. No matter what you do, you're changing part of your dash so you are removing the "factory look".

Once again, you do you, but I just installed the mictuning system and it really cleans everything up. I would rather have sPOD or switch pros, but they are WAY more expensive and I would rather "invest" that money into lights right now. I'll run the mictuning until it blows and upgrade.

 

I haven't removed the factory look, yet, and I'm not chasing my tail I'm in full control.
Buying a product like you shared the link to makes all my money and time I've spent on a factory look redundant. Also I would have to migrate my 4 OE switches to the new setup, and extend wires.
I just want 3 more switches as factory looking as possible, not obstructing view or space.

But I totally understand what your saying. And yes it's a great method I should have prolly done

 

I think you needed a few more "you do you"'s to really get the point across. As stated it's a bit unclear.

 

Your relays are under the hood, right? You would be removing those relays and just sending the wires directly to the box under your hood. Only one wire would need to be run from your engine bay/ mictuning device into your cab to your switch panel. Everything else stays under your hood. You wouldn't extend any wires, you would remove a bunch actually, including all your relays.

Not trying to be a d***, but how many things have you purchased and plan to return already? Once you add a legit switch panel system, adding anything electrical to your vehicle takes a couple of seconds to wire up.

 

I know all this, and your're wrong about some of what it would entail for me. The things I've returned are options of switch panels and fuse blocks.

 

You're not trying to be a dck but you're also not listening to me

 

Welp....ok, I'm out. ...and just for @Thacrow --> you do you

 

C'mon man don't leave! Lol
Not my intention.
But you do have to listen to/read what folks say on their own thread, and be considerate of their objectives (right or wrong as they may be)
You know this of course, you have made albums and threads, and are a much more productive user than many.