TRD Off Road model for towing a lite travel trailer on the road??

I'm shopping for a 4Runner for towing a 3000 lb travel trailer and for medium tough 4-wheeling (without the trailer of course) here in Northern California. I'm presently towing with an old 2000 SR5 w/250K miles on it. Don't want to be stranded... So now I'm shopping. I'm really liking the looks and off-road abilities and bigger engine of the TRD Off Road, looking at '17 and newer. I'd like it to have the towing package but I can adapt stuff (my present one didn't have a tow package and I just added everything to tow). I'd love to hear experienced owners in this situation chime in. Am I crazy for wanting a TRD Off Road for towing a lite travel trailer?

 

Nope. Just get a good brake controller and I highly recommend using an anti-sway/weigh distribution hitch.

 

3K is totally doable with these vehicles, as long as you're patient.

If you'll be towing it a lot, I'd consider an aftermarket transmission cooler. I believe they all come with towing hookups.

As mentioned above, a brake controller is a great suggestion as well. There are a few threads about those, and you can probably find them in the towing sub-forum.

Otherwise- don't load too much weight in the 4Runner's cargo area when towing. Don't accelerate aggressively unless you really need to. Keep the speed under 65 mph. Drive in S4, and take your time.

 

for towing, how about the lowest mileage, best condition 2009 V8 4th Gen you can find instead of a 5th gen?

 

No issues at all with that. Good to go

 

According to Motor Trend:
2003 Through 2009
In 2003 the Toyota 4Runner hit the pinnacle of 4Runner performance and, in 2004, tow rating. That was with the introduction of the platform with the 4.7-liter DOHC 32-valve EFI V-8 called the 2UZ-FE that was rated up to 235 hp at 4,800 rpm and 320 lb-ft at 3,400 rpm. For 2003 the tow rating for the 4Runner remained 5,000 pounds for the V-8 cars and the 4.0-liter DOHC 24-valve EFI VVT-i V6 or the 1GR-FE, which made 245 hp at 5,200 rpm and 283 lb-ft at 3,400 rpm. In 2007, with the caveat of a weight-distributing hitch, the V-8 powered 2WD 4Runners were tow rated at 7,300 pounds and 7,000 pounds for the 4WD vehicles. GVWRs ranged from 5,330 pounds (2WD V-6) and up to 6,005 pounds (4WD V-8).

I think that whatever you're towing with in this size of vehicle, it's VERY important to heed the caveat of using a brake controller, a weight-distribution hitch, and an anti-sway mechanism.

 

I'll add to this and suggest the use of some kind of add on towing mirrors.
If the LEO's can't see your face in your mirrors, that means that you can't reasonably see traffic behind you.

 

I agree. 4Runner's short wheel base is less than ideal for towing and those additions make a difference.

I have owned and towed with both V8 4th Gen and my current 5th Gen. By the time that 3000 lb travel trailer is full of gear it's going to be close enough to 5k that I know which one I would choose. Either will do I a pinch but if I was going to tow something like that regularly and on other than flat lands, I know what I which one I would choose.

 

5k tow rating for 5th gen 4 runners. I know this because it was important to me at my current trailer weight of 3610 dry. I tow it with another vehicle and not the 4 runner however I know the 4 runner on paper should marginally be capable with our current load out. Trailer break controller is nice to have with anything over 3k lbs. Check if your trailer comes with breaks. Not all small trailers do. I recommend the Red Arc trailer break controller. Australian brand.
You can expect to load anywhere from 500lbs to 800lbs of gear easily in your camp trailer. This added dry weight is still with empty tanks (Fresh, Grey, Black). If your trailer is 3k exactly you are probably golden. You only really start pushing the limits when your weight is above 3500lbs dry without gear. I don't remember what the 4 runner is but if you can find the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR) pay attention to those numbers. Obviously like it sounds it's everything in your 4 runner and full tanks and everything in your trailer loaded. Cannot exceed X-Amount of load between the two without compromising safety. This can also put added stress on either the suspension, power train, brakes or frame. Pay attention also to your tongue weight. This weight can also change depending on load level and how the load is positioned in the trailer.

Can you share with us the exact numbers you are looking at? What is the exact dry weight or your trailer? I may get some haters for this. If you can invest in a dedicated tow vehicle. Me personally I feel 5k is barely adequate for most folks looking to tow a small travel trailer with a a bathroom etc. Boats or popup campers sure. Once you start getting into four hard walls, double axles, bathrooms as well as fridges or slide out dinettes. It adds lots more weight. If the 4 runner could tow 7k and above you wouldn't need a truck. As an example Volkswagen Touregs could tow 7,700 lbs either gas or Diesel. They also had integrated transmission oil coolers which the 4 runner does not. I searched long and hard for a more modern bunkhouse trailer that had smooth fiberglass walls under 4k pounds. It's was like asking for a unicorn a few years ago. Now there are more to choose from on the market.

No matter which way you go punch in your numbers on the below website. It will help determine if you are close or over that 10% threshold for safety.

https://www.towing-calculator.com/

 

When I had my 4runner I toweda 3k lb camper. Installed a brake controller. No wdh or sway hitch was needed. You should be in good shape

 

You’d be fine. Trailer brake controller is a must and I wouldn’t tow without a weight distributing hitch and anti-sway bars. I installed air bags in mine and it helped tremendously.

 

Agreed that's all not necessary in these weight limits. Adding a WDH may exceed your tongue weight limit. This is their goal because it makes you want to buy a truck. If you own a truck they can up sell you on a bigger trailer and more gadgetry stuff like anti sway control. Some cars come with lane assist and anti sway built in as an FYI. *Cough* Volkswagen *Cough*

 

I'm not saying VW is perfect in any means but my wife's v6 Atlas SEL Premium 4 Motion had to tow our trailer back home from IOWA when we went to look at it. We decided to buy it then and there without another tow vehicle on hand. Her atlas has lane assist built in and in high winds that trailer was rock steady WITH NO DRIFT, no WDH and no Anti Sway bars. The on board computer was doing it's job properly. Drove in sport mode with the auto start stop off so engine wouldn't shut off at lights. Would I love to tow with her atlas all the time probably not but it to has a 5k towing limit like the 4 runner. What her Atlas has over my 4 runner is a integrated transmission oil coolers. In some cases this can be a bonus keeping temps down. It is in no means the perfect mid size SUV for towing but it did the job. Get yourself a used Diesel Toureg and be happy. Keep the 4 runner for trails.

For some odd reason KZ trailers did not sell in Illinois? We had to travel further to look at them.

 

That's not surprising, all jokes about VW quality aside, their SUVs are fine for recreational towing within the rated limit. You see them towing small and medium travel trailers all the time in Europe. It is smarter for people buying something like that instead of a 70k+ 3/4 ton diesel to tow modest sized trailers a few times a year.

A neighbor of mine often tows an enclosed trailer that shuttles vintage VWs and Porsches in his older Porsche Cayenne and he loves it for that purpose. It is a different platform of course than the Atlas, but VW does do their homework on their engineering within spec.

 

Sure. It might be 3k lb dry. But loaded? 4k lbs? I don't like towing 4k lbs + in these 5th gens. A 4th gen might even do it better with low end torque vs a 4k rpm v6. I would rather use a GX460 too. But get a Redarc brake controller

 

Not an expert here, but is a lane assist system intended to control trailer sway or deal with weight distribution? I thought it’s only purpose was to “catch” the occassionally inattentive driver from drifting into another lane.

I wouldn't think lane assist is there to keep a trailer under control. Just the opposite could happen depending on how forcefully lane assist has to react to keep you in lane. Imagine if you would drift into another lane and the system takes corrective countermeasures that are bit too aggressively. If the trailering setup was somewhat unstable, lane correction could potentially set cause the trailer to start swaying, or make a slightly swaying trailer situation even worse.

Seems it would be best to ensure the trailer setup is stable from a physical standpoint. Even if VW markets this as a computer stabilization system for towing, it seems better to make sure what you’re towing is stable to begin with.

 

I once did a short highway drive to a location and forgot to install the anti-sway bar and it was not good. I was getting pushed and pulled all over. I have towed and hauled all manor of truck and trailer combos, have a Class A CDL, and can tell you that it was one of my worst towing experiences ever.

I would not recommend towing a camper without a wdh and anti-sway in a 4Runner. If you think a weight distributing hitch is going to put you over on tongue weight then you are likely towing something too heavy to begin with. Be safe, not just for you but everyone else on the road.

 

Yes in Europe the VW Toureg , Audi Q7's, Range Rover, and Porche are used as some of the main towing platforms for travel trailers. You won't find many trucks like the US. Touregs have nearly an 8k towing capacity on a mid size SUV. They are built like tanks. After the diesel scandal VW pulled the Toureg lineup from the US market. VW does do their homework on engineering. They make some great cars but ALL brand cars have faults here or there. Some faults I have discovered owning 5 were electrical stuff like switches, door latches headlights or AC compressor issues or leaky sunroof sills. No major issues with Engine trans where it counts.

I had the same concern. I was worried about over taxing the lane assist system but it did amazing. Of course within it's means. This feature can be shut on and off with the push of a button on the steering wheel. I would never want to throw more weight than the vehicle was rated to handle. Lane assist is also just that an assist. It will not force a correction if your angles are far off and had to swerve causing trailer sway. If your steadily traveling down the road and you are encountering some wind which would typically cause the trailer to sway it causes the back end thrown out of lane alignment and auto corrects these small variations. If it became too unstable and it has to correct a lot you may need to adjust your speed or shut off the system. Use your head. Also key load the trailers properly with weight evenly distributed over the axles and over the tongue. Pay attention to your vehicles trailer numbers.

 

Interesting. So their lane assist somehow monitors the trailer itself?

 

Good question, I haven't done extensive research on their engineering behind the lane assist but I would assume NO. That would sound silly. I think the lane assist is just that an assist for keeping lane position within the lines. Assuming towing or no? I have to check her manual again. We used it and it did great. I do remember her manual saying NO WDH hitch was necessary within her 5k limit. Maybe you should google it for us?

 

I tow a 3,400lb dry (4,400lb GVWR) travel trailer that is 21' long overall and it's probably the most I would want to tow with my 4R. You definitely need a trailer brake controller, I went with a REDARC as the install looks factory and you won't bang your knee on it. I also installed an auxiliary transmission cooler(B&M 70268) for towing in the Texas heat. As far as I've seen all 5th gen's come with a tow hitch and trailer light hookup. I use an Andersen 3350 No-Sway Weight Distribution hitch which greatly improved the towing experience(Less sag on the rear and less sway on the highway). One thing to keep in mind when looking at the Off-Road vs SR5 is that the payload capacity may be reduced. Off-Road (880lbs) vs. SR5 5-Passenger (880lbs) vs. SR5/Limited 7-Passenger (1,165lbs).

The wife is due for a new vehicle and I'm starting to look at the 2nd gen GX460 (2010-2023) for her. Plan to use it as the primary tow vehicle as it has a tow rating of 6,500lb(with factory hitch if equipped) and about 1,280lb payload.

Update 10/29/24: Ended up getting a 2023 Durango R/T RWD as the family hauler for the wife. Tow capacity is 7,400lbs and payload is 1,350lbs. Have taken the camper on a couple of trips now and is MUCH easier towing vs the 4Runner which felt like I was at the edge of what it could handle.

 

I actually took my 4runner and camper to a tow shop and they said you were good. No wdh needed

 

There's an old quote among us pilots and it goes like this: "I'd rather be on the ground wishing I was flying, than to be flying and wishing I was on the ground". This applies to weather, aircraft maintenance, INOP equipment, and anything safety related. The same could be said for towing. "I'd rather tow with a WDH/anti-sway and not need it, than not have a WDH/anti-sway and need it". Choose wisely.

 

Requirements and recommendations are two entirely different things. I've towed with and without and we all know what I would choose. At the end of the day I will never utter the words "I wish I did not buy that WDH"...

 

I agree to the rather have it not need it then need it not have it theory. With these small numbers of towing capacity every little bit counts. I do not tow with my 4 runner but can it tow yes. Within reason. I think the original poster should be concerned about all aspects of what and how they tow with their 4R. A WDH and Anti Sway may be nice to have BUT always follow your manufacturers guidelines. Especially when it concerns safety just like your aircraft air frame. Adding a WDH along with your trailers tongue weight may exceed those ratings. Insurance won't touch you then. Do I personally feel it's necessary under 5k pounds absolutely not. Would I be more concerned if the weight of my trailer exceeds 60-70% or more of my vehicles weight and beyond YES. Traction is important and keeping all the wheels on the ground also important. Size of trailer also matters and not sure if many of you have towed anything bigger than a 22' trailer. The sheer space of your sidewalls can effect the wind sail effect and trailer sway. Just like an aircraft wing or putting your hand out the window at high speeds. The more surface area the greater the effect of movement. These small trailers have sway but not to the extremes I have seen with larger trailers. A WDH in these small SUV's is like a safety blanket. You should be fine either way if you follow weight guidelines.

It's funny that WDH and Anti Sway is almost as bad an argument as Vaccinations or No for COVID. Everyone has an opinion but those that matter are only mine.

Stay safe and Rock ON !

 

OP, for even better piece of mind, why don't you look at Tacos instead?

 

Because 4Runners are cooler, of course.

Jokes aside, I towed around 6K with my '19 last summer, around 150 miles. It wasn't ideal, but I was in a pinch. My son's Honda Element broke down in Indiana, due to a radiator leak, caused by my son rear-ending someone.

I was actually surprised how well it did, but my expectations were very low. I kept it around 60 mph, and took my sweet time.

I wouldn't recommend towing over the limit. But, I absolutely wouldn't hesitate to tow a 3K trailer, either.

As @PointmanUSMC mentioned, keep it within the manufacturer guidelines (including 65 mph top speed) and you should be fine.