Dealer oil change would be laughable...

I don't know if it is just old lore or if there is any truth to it, but I was taught that (in the case of metal disposable oil filters), they self torque. My friend I grew up with that went on to own his own shop taught me to wet the rubber with some of the old oil, and tighten it by hand until it was just hand tight. Son of a bitch if it wasn't always a bitch to get off next oil change. Anyway, maybe that doesn't even apply with the reusable filter housing, but it's worth noting that there was never any way to put a torque wrench on a disposable filter.

 

Precisely why I removed the RCI skid and went back to the oem skid I can remove. I want all the room possible to make sure I have the wrench on all the way, both when removing and replacing the filter housing. Plus the rear oem access panel allows removing the pan drain bolt with more room to work. It's just what works best for me.

 

What app do you guys use to keep record of oil changes? Or other methods of record keeping that are helpful in warranty situations?

 

Broke my filter housing ears off after the dealer overtightened it... I now have the Motivx Tool and upgraded to the aluminum housing.

 

I log mine in the web app and in the paper service log.

 

I keep the receipts in a big envelope and use an Excel spreadsheet to keep track. This is just to keep maintenance organized for myself (3 vehicles plus a lawn mower). If you want something presentable for the dealer or for resale, use a paper notebook instead of Excel spreadsheet.

 

People buying oil change products, just-in-time, leading up to an oil change, to ensure the receipt dates coincide?

i have changed my own oil plenty. However only faced a single engine related recall situation with my Subaru. Dealer and Subaru didn’t even ask for maintenance evidence.

 

Most auto parts stores dispose of old oil for free. Oreillys sells sealable drain pans. It's a breeze.
No worries about some 18 y/o lube tech overtightening your oil filter housing.
You'll also get to pick the brand/ quality of oil you get.
It's cheaper.
Peace of mind knowing you did it right.


So many reasons why you should be doing it yourself imo.

 

I take mine to an auto parts store, usually wherever I got the new oil. Some places want to test it before accepting it because yahoos trying to dispose of other fluids mix them together.

 

Sure there is. Use the Cup style filter tool W/3/8 drive & instead of ratchet use Tq wrench. When I do my 1st oil change I'll switch to metal housing like I did on my last 4Runner.Already have the tool.

 

My buddy had a shop W/two large containers to dump waste oil in. He has wasted oil heater for the garage. New owners take it Plus it's out side so you can dump @ anytime.

 

I don't use a torque wrench either.

I just snug it and if I can't loosen it with my hand its tight enough. Comes on with a regular 3/8" ratchet after.

I only have one of those tools the grab the ears because of dealer oil changes. Now I just grab anyone to take the filter off. I've also used one of those rubber strap wrenches when I couldn't find the tool.

 

Thanks for the info on the wrench. You also mentioned filter housing drain tool. Don't those come with the new oem filter? or if this is a better option can you post a pic and a link. As for spilled oil you only lost a quart. Try cleaning your driveway after spilling 3 quarts of used oil from the drain pan as I stumbled to get the pan to where I was going to put the oil in the old containers. Took me a while to get the stain off my driveway.

 

The Motivx filter housing drain tool has a few benefits relative to the one that comes with the filter. It includes a valve and hose, so oil doesn't drain out until you're good and ready, and you can direct the flow exactly where you want it.

 

I use the one that came W/filter for my ex 2012 FJ. It's plastic but it has thread & I connected a piece pg clear PVC tubing. It can be PIA to get the treads started. I'm gonna look into the one from Motivx. Haven't bought anything on Amazon recently
Dam it's$0.43 more then the Dorman metal filter housing.
I like this one because it comes W/different stand pipe. I used the one out of the OEM Plastic housing on my last 4Runner. Plus I believe this one in made in America too.

$23 Dorman 917-016 Oil Filter Cap - Aluminum Compatible with Select Lexus / Scion / Toyota Models

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0075MREHI/?coliid=I15Q720M1YA9HI&colid=LSK9NJ9TC80

 

This is the one I use and it works pretty well. After I'm done I store it in a ziplock to keep oil leakage to a minimum.

$13 MOCW Oil Filter Drain Tool Oil Filter Draining Tool Compatible with Toyota, Lexus, Scion 2.0L - 5.7L Engines with Cartridge Style Oil Filter System Replace OE # 15620-36020, 15620-36010

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08C5F5FQP?smid=A3T5KU9MQ2GAZ2

 

Not sure how they tighten up, but it does! Best theory is that it happens when tightened at one temperature, but removed a different temp.

Now that I have a big honking skidplate with a tiny access door, I need to finally break down and buy that drain tool. It was a mess last time!

I love and hate my skidplates. It makes my 4runner damn near indestructible on the trails, but it complicates maintenance. Taking them off is not option for a simple oil change, so that little drain tool is going to be my ticket.

 

$12 Oil Filter Tool Used with Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota,Lexus,RAV4,Camry,Tundra,Cruiser,Tacoma,Avalon,Highlander,Sienna,Scion,Prius,Corolla

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C7GTR5YH?ie=UTF8&th=1



I didn't want to deal with that little plastic drain tool that comes with the filter. I've read where they may/may not work all that well, break off in the housing, and issues like that. This thing just works. Pretty much the same one linked in post #112.

 

Remember, the better tool is one that grabs both the ears AND the flats at the same time, like the one @glwood54 linked above. Having multiple types of engagement points on the plastic housing is what you want.

NAPA has them if you want somewhere physical to buy it. But they are expensive there. That said, the one they sell has done perfect job the 6 years I’ve had it.

I’m not aware of that only grab the ears, but I would avoid them if they did exist.

 

Both I and Amazon (and the owner of this site getting a little sugar on the side) thank you for the link…you make it easy.

 

Drain oil into a drain pan. Pour new oil into truck. Pour old oil from drain pain into containers. Tighten containers up. Drop them off at NAPA, AutoZone, O'Reilleys or other. The Valvoline Instant Oil Change shop down the street takes my oil, pretty much no questions asked and throws away the old containers for me. I dropped off over 5 gallons over the last couple of weeks. Couple oil changes for some friends and my 4Runner, plus a transmission oil change on my 3500.

 

What gold plated oil and filter are you buying for it to cost $100+

Its not the cost its the f ups that dealer can do thats the main issue.

 

My oil change costs about 50 bucks. I do it for the peace of mind. I've had a couple bad experiences with stealership lube techs.

That said, to each their own!

 

Have this drain tool on my list W/Housing, 10 drain plug gaskets & OEM filter.

 

I dump the oil into shop's container & bring plastic containers home to put into recycle, not sure if they do that at the shop. I know my buddy who owned didn't.

 

I really isn’t about the money, it’s about confidence.

When the dealer screws something up, they can cause problems that can easily range from minor inconvenience to catastrophic damage.

It is a bad bet to simply assume they will make you whole after they forget to add oil, or put antifreeze in instead of oil, or cross thread the drain bolt, or break the filter housing. Maybe catastrophic problems don’t happen frequently, but they’re probably not rare occurrances.

The minor inconveniences are more common (for example, ones that result in less than $1000 of damage). However, these errors are the type of errors that dealers may refuse to accept resposibility for. They’ll just say the cross threaded drain plug “wore out”, or the housing came cracked, or corrosion caused it etc etc. You’ll end up having to eat their errors in many situations.

If you have reason to be confident in the shop you use, it’s a low risk. If you can not physically do basic maintenance yourself, it’s a necessary risk. But if you can do it yourself, then you can choose if you want to accept the risk, or void it by doing it yourself. If you trust yourself to do it better than a shop.

 

that thing is garbage. Leaks leaks! The reviews already had prepared me for low expectation, but I was desperate, having cracked a filter while changing. I picked up the Dorman filter from local auto store

 

What leaks?? The Dorman I have waiting to buy???

 

read the review. It’s a common issue. I also experienced leak. O ring good, turning it tighter didn’t resolve the leak either

I eventually replaced it with Toyota oem

 

Did the first oil change myself (5,000 miles). Was the most expensive oil change on the planet. I had to buy a (better) jack, jack stands, a funnel, cannister tool, drain pan/container (and I'm sure there's some things I'm missing). Got whatever synthetic oil was on sale at the local Auto Parts place... I think they had a deal with a filter included. The oil change itself was relatively painless. No runs, no drips, no errors.

Then I took it to the dealer for the first "Free" oil change at 10,000 miles. I removed the skid plate to make things easier. Picked it up and came home to find oil leaking around the oil cannister. Complained to the dealer and brought it back. An hour of me waiting at the dealer and they finally got the cannister on without oil leaking.

Costco just had 6qts of Mobil 1 on sale for like $35. Grabbed a case for my next oil change at 15,000 miles. Filter will be about $6. Not sure if I'll take it to Toyota for the 20,000 mile change.