Sound System issues- low voltage???

Aloha everyone,

I currently have the stock HU, replaced the fronts with Focal components, back door with Focal Coaxial, and put in a bypass (unplugged speakers and connected in a looped speaker adapter, this created 4Ohm load on rear channel) on the rear hatch speakers.

I’m currently in the middle of installing an AudioContol LC5i Pro, and JL Audio 900/5 amp. I’m using Metra T harness (“to amp”) with speedwire to the LC5i RCAs out to Amp, then Speedwire back to T harness(“from amp”). 4AWG for power and ground. Power for LC5i is tapped of Amp power (fused), and ground. The remote for amp is coming out of LC5i.

LC5i Pro was set up with instructions, amp sensitivity was set up initially at half. LC5i Pro powers up good, amp powers up good. First test went horrible, radio at 40 and barely a sound. I go to about 45 and the speakers clip, radio goes into “safe mode” disconnects from source and stops playing.

I check all connections and they seem good. I ran continuity test from T Harness (to amp) to LC5i speaker input and all test fine. I checked OHMs from speaker wire out of amp and all channels is registering 4 ohms.

I checked volts AC at LC5i speaker input and getting real low voltage:
Taking the following volts Ac readings at LC5i speaker input terminals:
Playing 1K sinnwave
.002 with nothing playing
.023 at volume 10
.071 at volume 20
.231 at volume 30
.70 at volume 40

These readings taken at RCAs (amp input). Same 1K:
0.0 at zero volume
0.002 at volume 10
.037 at volume 20, 30 and 40

I have a speaker wire to RCA coming in to bypass the LC5i and test the Amp with high level input.

I’m reaching out to see if anyone has had this type of issues.

Sorry for the long thread, but I’ve never seen anything like this.

mahalo,
Mac

 

Did you try again with different amp sensitivity after the initial test?

 

I just upgraded my system. First I put the Trail Grid Kicker speakers in, then about two months later (two weeks ago), I added an amp. It's a Kicker amp. I was going to add the LC7i, but the installers at Best Buy said it wasn't needed, because I didn't have a dedicated subwoofer (and I'm not going to add one later).

He did say I had to have this:




The OEM headunit from Toyota was blocking something from working. Without the amp connected, the speakers played fine, but if I wanted the amp hooked up, I needed this. He said it was a simple and cheap install. Now, my system fucking rocks.

My OEM radio at volume 40 = Ehh, okay.
My OEM radio at volume 40 = Better, but not great (with aftermarket Kicker speakers)
My OEM radio at volume 15 = WAY louder than OEM 40 and higher highs and deeper bass (With aftermarket speakers, kicker amp and adapter)

 

I tested all the load select options (20K ohms recommended), various levels on the LC5i and it didn’t change the output voltage. The LC5i did act funny when I changed the trigger mode; when I selected audio it would turn on as soon as I started the runnah…I think it had to do with the fact that I’m able to answer a call when the radio is off. So I’ve kept this setting at GTO.

I tested high and low level inputs, and various sensitivity settings. I set the radio at volume 40, then adjusted the sensitivity…at max no clipping on amp and only a whisper of a sound coming from speakers

this has me confused…I can only assume the low level voltage going into the amp is the culprit

 

Thanks!!!!

I was having the same issue when i installed the door speakers…to be expected…it would take more power to drive the better speakers…this the need for an amp (I am will be adding sub).

I was looking at the active LOCs to avert the bass roll-off from the factory HU. If I can bypass the LC5i and use that one…it’s a win win. I’ll give it a try.

 

You can use the LCI and the LOC at the same time, if you're going to use two amps, it's necessary. One amp for the speakers and one amp for the dedicated subwoofer. But the LOC is a must, no matter what you do.

The installer at Best Buy said "It's a minor issue that is easily fixable, for cheap, but it's dumb that Toyota designed it that way." He had the amp and loc wired up in just a few hours.

 

Thanks for the additional details. Your final hypothesis is plausible. I don't have any better ideas.

 

so it sounds like the Kicker 46KISLOAD4 is a fix for the load/voltage coming out of the stock HU. It’s worth a shot, I could test it before the LCI5i Pro and check the voltage coming out.

I went with the JL Audio RD900/5, 5 channel amp.

 

Correct. That is exactly what it is. It will fix your issue.

 

Ahh good news!!!!

I stopped by a local car audio store and they recommend a simple Speaker to RCA adapter- $34 for 2 sets.

I went straight from HU to JL Audio RD 900/5, changed to high level input, switched to 4 channel input and….boom there is sound.

Will be returning the AudioControl LC5i Pro.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

 

So skipping a DSP? Curious how it all sounds with the Focals having 65-75WPC and a separate sub with controller.

 

I only did initial install/set-up so far, I should be getting sub tomorrow.
Initial set-up:
Fronts- high pass- 60hz, sensitivity about 1/2
Rear- high pass-80hz, sensitivity a little over 1/2
Tailgate- no speakers, bypassed them
HU- set flat

I’m going to test some JL loaded subs tomorrow. Leaning towards HO110RG-W3V3, but may consider the 12” version.