Error Lights and Malfunction Messages after lift and alignment

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10173968-9999.pdf

Basically they recommend fixing nothing and permanently bricking the radar instead. Plus stickers.

At least one owner reported this error at alignment after switching tire size, with no lift at all. No one has reported a dealer trying calibration and failing that I'm aware of; they either refuse or they do it and it's fine.

 

Hmmm is the c1a50 clearable?

 

My 4Runner is brand new essentially (1600 miles), and the lift that I added was only on the front, and I t was the smallest spacer lift that Cornfed makes. The BFG’s I added were in factory size. The error occurred when the shop hooked their alignment computer to the car to recalibrate the steering angle. Now I have the lights on the dash and no wheels on the display. I have no traction control, no cruise control. The folks at Cornfed confirmed that they had heard of this happening on other rigs as well. This is most definitely a software glitch on Toyota’s end during alignment, and anyone that says it’s due to the lift and sensor calibration is wrong. I’d like for those of us with this problem to reach out to someone at Toyota America together to make them aware of this problem. We should not be paying out of pocket for this reprogramming. It should be handled under warranty and corrected by Toyota for others through a software update. If you know of anyone that I can reach out to about this, please let me know. Due to the holidays I haven’t been able to get to a dealer yet, but I plan to do that either this week or next unless someone gets to me with a fix before then. Thanks to all and Happy New Year!

 

I think you're right (except I have not heard of this happening during an alignment with zero lift or tire size change), but Hunter needs to update their software to either work properly with newer Toyotas or remove the steering angle reset step during alignment.

 

I will clear then come right back on, with in a second.

 

Let me know what the dealer says about it if you go and ill be damn sure to post a fix if i figure out with techstream.

 

At least on previous years there was a way to reset zero point via shorting jumpers on the obd port. See video attached

It may or may not be the same process on newer model years, I have no idea. It may be worth getting a subscription to tech stream for a few days to get the factory procedure for your model year.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5zCFZ...gY2FsaWJyYXRpb24gb24gNXRoIGdlbiAgNHJ1bm5lcg==

 

That's correct up to (I think) MY2020; those pins are blanks in newer OBD2 ports.

 

Just curious, do you know if there is a new procedure to reset zero point past 2020 using the jumper method?

 

Only thing I've read is that it now requires techstream. It's a miss that 3rd party alignment software can still (attempt to) reset the zero angle if it's going to freak out the PCS.

 

There has got to be one, I think toyota just hasnt released the info on it, probably due to liability since its tied into the collision system. Or its toyotas way of dragging vehicles back into the service department. Its probably something simple to, like push 2 buttons at the same time for a few seconds and rub your tummy within 5 seconds.

 

One thing Ive been thinking about but havent found much info on it...

since the 2020 and later models dont have the TS wire in the DLC connector, are the computer modules the same as 2019 and earlier? If they are they why cant we add the wire from the Module it comes from and then use the jumper wire method?

That would have a chance at working. I haven't dug into it real deep but the little bit of research i did do, its seems pretty difficult to get the appropriate schematics for comparison. Also, module service numbers would have to the same or at least operate the same and have the ability of recalibration in the same manner. Kind of a long shot but I think ill dig into that a bit more.

 

Well, if anyone needs to get a subscription to the toyota service manuals for a few days, it be nice to peruse the section for resetting zero point. It seems like they usually have jumper methods for stuff like this to allow it to be repairable “in the field” where dealers may not be around.

 

I would guess the addition of TSS on the later models probably means at least some changes to the ECU.

 

For everyone who has had this issue or is following along, I have been corresponding with Toyota through X (Twitter) of all places for the last day about this. They took my VIN and asked what dealership told me that I'd need to get the system reinstalled and that I'd have to pay for it. Not sure if it will go anywhere from here, but I'm hopeful that Toyota will realize or admit, they have an issue that needs to be resolved. @jdoggat22 did you have any luck with Techstream fixing your issue?

 

I havent yet, had to go to that place that pays me all week. haha

Just got the cable (Amazon), after doing some research this cheap one should connect, fingers crossed. Tech stream is downloaded and Im currently working on install and set up.

Hoping tomorrow evening I'll be able to connect to the 4runner. I think I will video it, in case it works, we can see exactly what I do.

I did reply to Ancel on Facebook about they're X7 diag tool. They claim they're tool can do zero point calibration on a '21 4runner. I may try that next and returne the 5610. I'll see how techstream goes first.

 

Still working on connectivity issues from j2534 adapter to ecm. currently working with techstream V12, may too to old of a version but I figured i would try the free one first.

Innova tech dept got back to me yesterday. They told me none of their tools can perform zero point cal on a 21' toyota. Since they also make Zurich (harbor freight), Innova and Zurich are out. At least for now.

Ill reach out to Ancel tech department today to see what they've got to say. Launch makes the matco diag tools, or are least related. Ill reach out to them also.

If V12 cant connect, on sunday ill buy a 2 day subscription to techstream and hopefully get all the info needed to figure something out.

 

Super cool that you're taking point on this, and sharing. Let us know if we can chip in!

 

If anybody can find the schematics for the dlc connector and ecm pinouts for 2019 and 2021. That would be helpful in figuring out a work around to make the paper clip method work. If its possible anyway. If not i should be able to pull them off techstream, but hey the sooner the better

 

Found this. 2016 to 2019 manual. This guy pulled all 8000 pages from techstream. It works too.

The ABS system info for this topic is(using adobe bookmarks) BRAKE->Brake Dynamic control->Vehicle Stability control.

There you can see ecu control pinout Connector A6 pin 24 is the TS circuit of the Skid control ECU. Then in the bookmarks scroll all the way down to TS CG terminal circuit and you will see that pin 12 of the DLC3 connector goes only to pin 24 of the A6 connector (Skid control / abs ecu).

Skid control ecu on the dealers website is called the following:
47217-35250 solenoid, (skid control abs ecu 2020-2023) This is part #10 of the parts diagram (not available for 2016-2019)

These parts are the ecu, master cylinder, and abs pump (complete units)
47050-35165 acuator assembly (Master cyl, abs ecu, entire unit 2016-2019)
47050-35230 accuator assembly (2020-2023)

Toyotas parts website is a bit confusing. It lists these parts as fitting 2016 – 2023 in the part description. But the parts finder (automated system) says they fit specific years. Need to call Toyota and ask, maybe there is an update.

 

"2016-2019 DLC3 has the following pins:

4 - CG
5 - SG
6 - CANH
7 - SIL
9 - TAC
12 - TS
13 - TC
14 - CANL
16 - BAT

2020 DLC3 has the following pins:

5 - SG
6 - CANH
7 - SIL
13 - TC
14 - CANL
16 - BAT

Toyota removed the wire running from the ABS ECU to the DLC3 connector. Interesting fact though is that the ABS ECU itself is the same for 2020, so I suspect if you wanted to be able to do the same thing, you could just add a terminal and tire to Pin 24 of the ABS ECU connector and ground it to the vehicle's chassis and it would be the same as jumping 4-12 on a 2016-2019." Copied from jeff lange on tacoma world forum

This is what i was talking about adding the wire to the system.

I'm trying to gather info and Im using this forum to store all of it in one place.

 

Any inputs on this one?

https://www.4runners.com/threads/pre-collision-system-warning-after-jacking.35941/

 

Not sure about your popping noise but it looks like you've just got in the same boat as everyone else following this thread. Stay tuned, Im looking into whether or not we can add the wire to the Skid control ecm and re'cal the Steering sensor like a 2019. Its looking pretty good im just waiting for answer from toyota before i try it.

My 4runner isnt available right now so i havent messed with techstream today. Just doin research.

However if you have techstream available it should be really easy. According to the manual.

 

I'm just aggravated and it's giving me a headache. I rotated the tires and then jacked up the front on both sides to turn the steering wheel with it running to look fornthe pop. Evidently it didn't like it since I have the error now. There has to be a way of clearing it since nothing was taken apart or disconnected.

 

You can try a couple things after doing some reading in the manual. Disconnect your battery for 20 min (after its been off for 2 min) the reconnect the battery. Or if you have a bidirectional scan tool try to recalibrate the zero point calibration. Or see if you have pin 12 in the DLC connector under the dash and follow the video posted above. If none of that works the i guess stay tuned. Im working out a way to do this the DIY way.

 

Ok so in the morning disconnect the battery for 20 minutes to clear the computers and see what happens?

 

These snip-its are from the 2019 manual. I emailed toyota about the the part numbers above to see if the Skid control ecu is the same for 2016 to 2019 as 2020 to 2023 since theyre parts website is confusing. We will see what they say. However Im pretty confident we can add the wire from pin 24 of the skid control and touch it to ground or pin 4 on the DLC and get the calibration done. Though I haven't tried it. Any volunteers?

Skid control ecu location, pretty much at the master cylinder

skid control ecu pinout- see pin 24 (that is the TS pin that should be in pin 12 on the DLC under the dash)

Skid control TS to DLC3 connector - notice it goes to pin 12 on DLC, Pin 4 in DLC is CG (common ground)

 

The following are where you would add the TC wire to the DLC from ECM connector F50 pin 28 to DLC pin 13

Terminal circuit of TC circuit


ECM connector location of F50, 2 of the terminals should be number on the connector to find the correct pin I realize this one is tough to read.


ECM location, behind the glove box


Why TC is a good wire to add if your adding wires anyway

 

I disconnected both battery terminals for 30 minutes and the errors did not clear. I let in run for 3 or 4 minutes. No wheels are showing on the Steering angle display either. I must have tripped it off somehow when I was turning the wheels while the front end was on jacks?

 

I dont know how or why but it seems you lost the calibration for the steering sensor. Today Im working on techstream connectivity with V12 (the free one). Still trying to get the J2534 adapter to communicate.

On techstreams website it says that the subscription version is only compatable with the mongoose J2534 adapter.... theres always a work around but i dont know what that is. But i do have a V18.008 on a disc i got from the chinese rip off on Amazon. If v12 doesnt work ill load V18 from the disc and possibly throw this computer away. haha

The above diagrams should be the work around to add the calibration ability to these trucks. I dont know exactly what terminal connector is used for the skid control ecu, so I havent tried it. Ill try to order some today and keep goin on that.

82998-12690 I think this is the part number of the terminals, havent confirmed.