2022 needle bearing issues

Just curious as to why the 30 minutes to make a hub puller instead of simply threading the two bolts into the hub to break it free...

 

Didn't even think of this until you mentioned.

Are you saying those holes go all the way through and bear against the CV axle face? (so basically to push the hub assembly off). If so, didn't realize. I'm so accustomed to seeing threaded blind holes on rotating assemblies for pullers I just assumed that was the case here!

Had I known, next issue would have been not having the right screws. Only have these short threaded section bolts that came with the puller. I mostly do vintage motorcycle work so my shop is full of SAE, Whitworth, CEI fasteners. Not a lot of metric stuff around.

Thanks for pointing out.

Jason

 

Exactly. I don't usually have any issues with pulling off hubs in NM (no rust issues), but I've seen a lot of videos where bolts are just threaded into one or both of those holes to free the hub from the backing plate, should it not want to freely separate.

 

I did this job last weekend as part of a CV axle reboot. It was crazy how much play that needle bearing had compared to the new bushing. There's a member on here to makes a version of the ECGS tools that already has the relief chamfer. Plus they made the installer better by adding a socket to the shaft of the installer to give you a better hammering surface.

I got lucky with the hubs, this vehicle I was working on has a bit of rust. I just put the axle nut on the threads of the CV backwards so the flange was facing out. A few raps with the deadblow and the axle popped free. When it was time to re install, the splines get a nice coat of Evinrude Triple Guard grease so I don't have to worry about ever fighting them again.

 

lol I am in the first week of ownership. Noticed the vibration with around 70miles on the odo.

i am extremely sensitive to the symptoms of this issue, having gone thru this ordeal with an ‘03 Tacoma years ago (I believe before ECGS came out with the bushing)

 

Don't pull the axle from the hub; not required!!!! YouTube is full of videos showing that and it is .5-1 hr more than needed! ... It's not a bad idea to do and then grease etc to make sure that it comes out in the future; but I never pull the axle for a bushing swap alone. I have a 4Runner coming in soon and I'm going to take the time to video it and link it here to help everybody out.

 

I am approaching 20k miles so far diff is good. should I replace needle bearing for bushing bearing before it fail? Why Toyota not installed OEM bushing? Are they not smart to build reliable vehicle?

 

I think the reports in the field also is influenced by people’s sensitivity to the symptoms.
A person could be entirely oblivious to the noise or vibration, and simply report back as “no problem”

also I suspect people with limited trim or 2wd 4Rs are also chiming in, which dilutes the narrative in the data

 

I have done it both on the Taco and the 4R. And boy, I can tell a difference. I think the sensitivity on stock vehicles is minor at times and that's why I think the change from toyota hasn't happened yet. One thing is for sure, they will never own the problem or tell us why they designed it this way. My 2c.

 

Having been traumatized by this issue on my 03 taco, nearly a decade ago, I kind of just want to do the bushing install on my brand new ORP (less than 200 miles on odo as of this writing). Chaulk it up as a necessary upgrade, to resolve design deficiency.

I am a bit nervous of the warranty voiding implications though

 

Unless your differential explodes and needs to be replaced, I can't see how a dealership service dept. would ever know there was a bushing instead of a needle bearing in there. The cv axle will have less play, and just work better than intended since new.

 

I’d also wait if it’s not loud yet. Warranty can’t be voided for problems unrelated to a modification, but they can claim it anyway. Then you’d have to fight to prove otherwise.

 

I can already detect the symptoms. Started around 70 miles on the odo.

 

Preventative maintenance. When we bought the girl's 2016, although no bad symptoms, there was a lot of play. As well, the CV boot was torn on that side and had been flinging grease around. Gave me an excuse to re boot both the CV's and do that bushing at the same time. Made a huge difference in noticeable play (or lack thereof after)

 

Does passenger side need to be replaced as well?

 

No needle bearing on the passenger side.

go to your truck right now. Grab the cv axel end, going into our diff. Shake it. You will find driver side to exhibit much more movement inside the diff casing

 

I have no movement on wheel side, just a hair of movement on opposite side

 

Has nothing to do with the wheel side. Compare the diff side movement between driver and passenger

 

It’s same, not much.

 

24k miles, no noises nor vibrations. Should I replace anyways?

 

A little bit of in and out movement is fine, it's the radial slop you don't want

 

Are there any good videos online on how to replace it?

 

I just want to make sure I don't have a needle bearing problem on my 23 4R (1450 miles)... since I bought it, the steering wheel has a little shimmy at certain speeds.
Had the wheels balanced when I put on new TRD rims a few weeks ago, still does it. I was thinking it was just the tires causing it; I dont hear any noises coming from the front end (rotational hum, etc).

Could this be a needle bearing issue? Or is steering wheel shimmy not a symptom?

 

Try 32 psi cold on your tires and go get a forced balance at discount tire, mine had same issue with stock nitto tires and that fixed it.

 

that is not needle bearing symptoms. When it is needle bearing, the symptoms you feel immediately go away when you go from 2hi to 4hi

 

Ah ha. Thanks. I've only tried 4wd to make sure it works, no snow in Michigan this December I WANNA PLAY. lol

 

Not unless you're planning to have the suspension apart anyway.

 

https://youtu.be/nllcwqI1YVI

 

I always appreciate your very detailed videos, thanks. I like how they are aimed at the maybe not-so-experienced DIYers.

 

Thanks, I also found a few on YouTube, doesn’t seem to difficult. Learned that if you raise just driver side on a jack stand you won’t loose much fluid.