1990/1995 3.0 differences

Hey new to the forum, I own a 1990 Toyota 4Runner with a 3.0 manual transmission, I purchased it a while back with a blow engine and figured I would come across a good 3.0 easily for a decent price, turns out these engines cost a arm and leg at dismantlers, and most of the ones you come across are on there last legs, I found a lower mileage wrecked 1995 4runner at the salvaged auctions in CA, and I was wondering what the differences are if any? And what would I need to do for it to work properly as far as ecu/ connectors to sensors or anything, I saved a bunch of parts from the 95’ just incase I had to swap harness or use any other parts that came on the newer 4runner, mine is a 1990 and the wrecked one is 1995 I’m pulling engine and I’m hoping it’s just a cake walk and I can drop it in and go, thanks for any information I appreciate it a bunch

 

The coolant sensor bank, intake plenum, distributor, distributor mount, and a fair amount of other things are different. Luckily you can take all these different things off of your 90 engine and bolt them to your 95 engine. This will be easier to do than trying to swap all the connectors on your 90 harness to ones that match the 95

 

What about the ecu? Should I use the 95 computer also knock sensors? From 95 with that harness, i appreciate the info coming forth

 

The smart thing is to put a 5VZ in it, it's a well documented path that improves reliability, power, and fuel consumption. I don't know the finer details, but I have read that the later 3vz was far more reliable than the early ones like yours. Still nothing compared to the 5vz though.

 

Yes I’m aware of the 3.4 swap I just didn’t want to have to deal with smog issues and interchanging a bunch of stuff and splicing, even tho I may have to do some splicing with the newer 3.0 it would be minimal compared to 3.4 swap thanks for the input and info

 

No, keep the 90 ecu and knock sensor (or replace with new 90 knock sensor). There are no real mechanical differences between the 2 engines that will affect the swap, just need to swap all the sensors, sensor block, distributor and mount, and intake plenum. Should take you no more than an hour if the engine is on a stand

 

Right on thank you for the info , I guess I’ll be returning some new parts I bought for the 95 engine lol but atleast I know now

 

Duran, the timing belt tensioner on the 95 with be self-adjusting and on your 90 it is static. So that will be plus. Just see if the oil cooler is present on both motors as that alters the water pump with an added pipe for the coolers coolant line feed to it. You may need to swap out the plenums with the attached steel pipe assy to keep all the 1990 stuff intact. Would be a great time to put on some $150 chinese headers?...