Not happy with my brake job

Hey all.
I recently did a brake job on my 02, and I'm not happy with the results.
I have done my brakes myself multiple times throughout the years, and had them done professionally, and the result has always been a rock hard brake pedal in the beginning and a parking brake that holds in one or two clicks.
I had slightly warped rotors, so that issue has been taken care of. I used premium ceramic pads in front, and good shoes and back.
So, new rotors and pads, new shoes and drums.
And it stops good, but I don't notice a real big difference in the pedal, and the stopping is about the same as before.
And then there's the parking brake which goes about eight clicks, and if I press the gas I can still move.
It's not like there's no parking brake, but definitely not as much resistance as I would like.
I have tried the pulling the parking brake multiple times, and I have tried doing these stopping in reverse a few times as well.
I did not do a bleed, and I'm thinking about doing that next.
Anyway I would appreciate any insight y'all might have.

 

My 4Runner has never had a 2 click parking brake. More like 5 to 7. The handle actuates the cable to the rear drums. Make sure you have them adjusted properly. I'm thinking they aren't quite there yet. There is a bolt under the handle I think that can be adjusted to take up some slack.

Whenever I have done my brakes, I have never had much change in the pedal feel after the first or second press to get the front caliper pistons back into position.

I've had my rig new since 2002 and it's NEVER been to a shop except for tires, alignment and a ball joint recall in 2003.

 

Thank you... It feels a wee bit better than day one.
I will Definitely check that bolt for the slack.
And, this is my first 4Runner and it being 20 plus years old I don't know it was supposed to feel like new so I definitely feel better after what you told me.

 

Air-Bleeder is nice and easy to use. If you have an air-compressor?

 

Hey Hank, adjust your shoe-to-drum clearance before tightening up the cable. There's access on the backing plate for the star adjuster. Seek out videos if you’re unsure of how to do it. Also, giving it gas shouldn't be your benchmark for adjustment. If it holds in drive or reverse with your foot off the gas pedal you should be good. Be careful to adjust both sides evenly, or you can create a "brake pull" to the side that is overadjusted.

 

I do have a compressor where I'm at. I will look into that. Thank you

 

Thank you, I'm checking into that this weekend. I really appreciate all of you guys taking the time to help.

 

I just bled my brakes after twenty years figured it was time nothing wrong with them. Knock on Wood!

 

That's true bravery. One lesson I learned early in life is not to bleed the brakes unless I think they need it. It usually takes me 2-3 attempts to really get it right.

 

Yeah, that's one of those things that you hear almost equal feedback for both pros and cons.

 

Out of curiosity had you used ceramic pads before and how did they work for you? The reason for my ask is that when I did the brakes on my 4Runner, I used ceramic brake pads with new rotors but those pads lasted a few thousand miles. I went back to Toyota OEM and they're working as they should. Perhaps the ceramic ones that I was using were too "soft". They were Akebono ProAct ACT611 pads.

 

I did use the Akebono.
All of the inquiries I did suggested that they would be better, and easier on the rotors as far as heat and wear goes.
The ones I replaced looked to be semi-metallic.
I have been super careful and easy with my breaking for the first couple of days, and I always do my best to not put myself in situations where I have to lay on the brakes hard.
Things do seem to be improving a bit.
I do stick with OEM religiously as far as anything mechanical / electrical goes, however as far as breaking and suspension goes, it's my understanding that there are better aftermarket options, however I'm still looking into all of that.
I will definitely pay attention to the mileage I get off of these pads though now that you have shared your experience.
Thank you for your feedback.
Is much appreciated!

 

With ur 02 u have to have a computer hooked up to the plug under the hood to bleed the brakes don't try to bleed the brakes without it it is about a 40 min process the 01 and 02 r the only years with the electrical brake control unit with the compressed can of nitrogen I tried to bleed mine and did not have the desired results until I had computer hooked up even tried to bleed with it running same results

 

Thank you..!

 

I did my '02 in my driveway with no computer. It is possible. I replaced all hoses, rear brake cylinders, and rebuilt the front calipers and she stops straight and fine.

Just follow Timmy's vid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnyK3V-OGn4

If I had to drain the MC, very possibly I'd need the computer.

 

I've tried to bleed the brakes multiple different ways the computer was the way I got the pedal to feel good otherwise it was spongy and went a little farther down then I liked

 

Hi. I had posted about my brakes elsewhere before seeing this post.

The vehicle, 2K 4cyl, had the brake booster replaced. I in turn redid the brakes all around, pads, shoes, calipers, and rear brake cylinders. Bled the entire system clean. Checked over the system and no leaks whatsoever, anywhere.

Drove and braked great until last week when the pedal went down to the floor and my sphincter closed up like Ft. Knox. I re-bled the brakes (getting air when I did) clean once again with a very firm pedal. No leaks. DIdn't even make it out of the driveway and the pedal went to the floor again.

Checked various sites for help, found where they spoke of a 'hiss' out of the booster when depressing the pedal and that's what I found.
I'm confused however. I saw where a bad booster makes for a hard pedal, not soft.

I'm waiting for a new master cylinder and booster. Is there anything else I should check/do before taking the plunge and replacing?