New Fumoto oil drain valve broke during install

I have been changing my own oil since the 70’s. Never once torqued a drain bolt, just snug it up and give it one last umph. Never an issue.

I have installed a Valvomax in one of my vehicles, I like it a lot. $0.02.

 

Exactly!

 

Calibrated every twelve months per the FAA regulations.

Yes. Every Snap-On torque wrench comes with a factory calibration when purchased new.

Yes, the same people that calibrate all of my equipment every year.

The independent entity certification is validated every year by a different independent entity by FAA regulations.

 

The best thing for that hole is the factory bolt. Not a soft brass fitting with a hole in the middle of it.
To me, the oil isn't drained that often, whether or not a person chooses 5k or 10k mile change.

 

Personally, I don't get the appeal of the fumoto valve. I thought about it then decided I didn't want anything hanging down in the middle of the vehicle that can get caught on something. Especially when it's the thing that holds my oil in. Connecting a tube to it also seemed extra tedious. I don't care if it is above the skid plate. The skid plate is designed to get abused, the oil drain isn't and the cost of it getting damaged can be huge. Too much risk IMO

It's one bolt and a crush washer. I've been doing this for 25 years.

30lbs of torque is crazy as well. Did that on the first oil change which pushed the crush washer up into the threads. On the next oil change I needed a trim tool to pop it off. I agree with the comments of snugging it up then giving it a little more. You can feel the crush washer deform. As soon as it starts to go, you are done. Probably closer to 20-25lbs max.

 

In the electrical power industry we used silicon bronze bolts for connecting copper bus bars. Connections had to be torqued to insure no over or under tightening.

Back in the last Century we worked on some NASA and Strat Petro Reserve distribution systems. Every torque wrench had to be calibrated and traceable to the Nat Bureau of Standards. They had stickers on them, w/ the initials of the tech who did the cal.

The torque wrenches we used in the Budweiser brewery had no calibration requirements...

 

Using a vacuum pump extraction is way easier. I took my Fumuto off some time back out of paranoia and got an extractor.

 

Does an extractor get all the oil out? Never used one but seems there would still be some at bottom of pan.

 

Extractors are cool but you still have to drop the skids for the oil filter, right?

Even if you have an aftermarket skid that you don't have to remove, you gotta get under there to do the filter.

 

Based on quarts added to full, I would say the extractor gets nearly all fluid out but it must leave some behind.

My Bud Built skid has a door in the oil filter area so easy access for that step.

The “easier” part I find is that I don’t have to deal with a nearly full dirty oil catch pan. I can much easier fill the empty oil quart bottles from the extractor tank without any mess for transport to oil store. In the past I would awkwardly fill bottles and spill dirty oil in the process. I also like that I can start the vacuum pump and then start working on the filter area prep work and never had to crawl way under there.

 

Fumoto valves are used in lots of applications, from the factory. Examples include excavators, Cat, Komatsu, dozers, skidsteers etc. These pieces of equipment are prone to lots of "abuse". Personally I use them, and have never had a problem. Can't explain the failure on installation, but the torque specs supplied with the valve are there for a reason, as with hundreds of other things we all use.

 

Same, except that I started in the '90's. I have always gone by feel. I also have a Fumoto valve that was installed in the same manner around 3 years ago and haven't had issues.

I also didn't even realize that the filter housing had torque specs until I read it here.

 

I'm wondering if there is a bad batch.....happe Ed on the Tundra side too.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/well-this-just-happened.131921/#post-3354859

 

I’ve been snobish about oil extractors, but now that It’s been pointed out, I can understand the benefit with draining straight into your disposal container.

The pan on the 4runner seems to have a pooch too, or more like a small volume low spot. I’m assuming the pick up goes all the way down there. Do you have to fish the extractor around to get it all the way down there? Can you tell easily you’ve hit bottom?

 

How does this 'extractor' work? This thread is the first I've heard of this...of course, I pretty much live under a rock most of the time...

 

Yeah we can be brutal on the Tundra side sometimes lol.

 

A while ago I checked into the Toyota TIS repair manual for my model year for the oil capacities. The Dry Fill is 7.5 US Qts. A regular drain and fill with filter change is 6.6 US Qts.
So, after you pull the plug and drain everything you can, about 0.9 Qt is still clinging to the engine interior or in various pockets.

It may be best not to overthink the process, trying to extract every last ounce of oil from the engine. You can’t get it all out anyway. Just drain it and fill it at your preferred oil change interval.

 

Do yourself a HUGE favor. Install a Valvomax drain system. Never any spillage, super easy to use and machined perfection. Great company, family owned, designed and machine by a retired aerospace engineer. Has an eye for detail and it shows. Put this system on my Tundra and 4Runner. Now the only pain in the ass is Toyota's stupid, stupid oil filter and the pain in the ass to change them.....stupid!

 

Definitely going to change to Valvomax after the next oil change. Way more secure than the Fumoto.

 

Anyone have a picture of the Valvomax installed? Judging by pictures on their website, I don't think it'll fit with my ARB skid plate.

 

Will snap one when I get back underneath the stock skid, but it did clear easily.

 

ValvoMax will fit any 4RNR Tacoma, Tundra. A tic taller than a OEM drain plug. Thread base plug in oil pan, in place of OEM drain plug. It has a thread cover cap, comes with a male insertion plug with drain tube attached. Un srew the cap, insert the male drain unit with attached tube and away the oil goes. Make sure you have a better than 6.6qt collection pan/bottle/etc. My first drain was...wow this is pretty cool...holy crap I need another container now!!!!! Will fit with no problem. Hands down the best after market drain system

 

IF I was going to install an aftermarket drain system, I would choose the ValvoMax, as well. It is stainless steel vs. brass. It's a neat idea. FWIW, I did put one on my 20 Tacoma 3.5 and test the draining efficiency (drained with the valve, then removed the valve to see how much more oil came out). It did leave a bit more in the pan as the valve's threaded portion extends a little above the base level of the pan on the inside. It wasn't significant - a few ounces. I also liked that it was lower profile than other options. I just couldn't get my OCD head around the possibility of it shearing off due to a weakened area from a thread cut, etc. I'm 99% sure it would have been great, but I never have to worry about the old drain plug failing, so.................

 

Installed on my Jeep JK. Skid off for maintenance. Plan to install on the T4R at next oil change.

 

In the interest of keeping the oem drain plug (might need to take it in at some point, and don't want some clueless tech removing an aftermarket drain), but hating how you get a hand/armful of hot oil when removing it, I did a search to see what else is available to help. One way is a magnetic box end wrench, which I suppose would hold on to the drain plug once loose. The other way is this type tool found on Amazon, which seems to solve removing the oem drain plug and getting oil all over your hand/arm:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9PibZ-MnSY

Video on the Craftsman version:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CikIL5JiHj4

Link to one version of the tool:

https://www.temu.com/kuiper/dn9.htm...MI_8e_gIGmggMVKzjUAR0DpwMjEAQYASABEgJdDvD_BwE

 

I just let the plug fall into the cheap ikea pink plastic tub that I stole from my daughters room about 18 years go. It's big enough that I can tip it to the side and retrieve the plug without getting hot oil all over my hands. The tub fits under our Camry and Accord on ramps and easily slides under the 4Runner and my Jeep TJ without any trouble. It also pours from the corner back into the empty oil jug w no issues. It then holds the jugs of used oil until I take them to get recycled. It's my all-in-one oil change solution.

I like the extractor idea and looked into one years ago to change the tranny fluid on a truck that I had. Never ended up getting it and sold the truck. Forgot about it until reading this thread. Sounds like a good idea but we drive so little I only end up changing the oil every 10 months or so in each vehicle. Plus my garage is l so full I would need to store it in the attic w my 7 pairs of jack stands.

 

No need to over think it. I just use a ratcheting wrench and and the bolt stays in the wrench.

 

bad casting. been using Fumotos for around 20 years now with no problems whatsoever but anybody can put out a dud every now and then.

 

Besides my comment on that brass valve, I put on a pair of disposable gloves and keep my hand & fingers above the splash zone.
Tomorrow I'm going to service my neighbors JD tractor (a 670 garden type). I don't know what I'm getting myself into but I'll get it done for her.
And probably go through a few pairs of disposable gloves too. Also lubing it too.

 

30ftlbs? Yep