How bad is this rust?

Already a lost cause on a 9-10 year old 4Runner. If @rtpatter ever needs to replace the LCA or do a full alignment, he should buy a set of cam bolts ahead of time, and extra sawzall blades if DIY.

I suggest checking the rear fuel tank strap first. It's broken on many 4Runners of this age, with the tank's weight now carried by the skid plate. The area tends to get missed by rustproofing places.

 

Thx @Too Stroked @glwood54 @McSpazatron
Any chance you could mark up, circle the LCA cam adjusters & bolts on the photo for us

 

This shot is from the front of the vehicle, there is a second bolt on the rear of the arm as well.

 

I'm less concerned after your second round of photos. One area that will continue to take damage, and that you should take definite measures to protect is the passenger side frame rail between the front suspension and the transmission cross member. The AC condenser will leak down into the frame via one of the factory holes and slowly deteriorate this spot. Keeping the inside of that area fluid filmed and making sure you have a good plug blocking off those holes is important. Otherwise, good advise from everyone here, especially on getting those eccentric bolts moving for the front end alignment.

 

I wouldn't worry about the cam bolts at this point. 99% chance they're already frozen. Just cross that bridge when you come to it and realize your next alignment will be expensive.

 

Is there a way to get at the upper surface of that support without pulling the radiator?

The other day I sprayed all around inside the LCAs with WoolWax, just in case. I wish I had a camera I could get up inside to check coverage.

 

That AC drain is a pain. I had thought about doing some sort of extended hose for the drain pipe, but Im not sure I want to hang any weight on the drain hose for fear of pulling it out or some other unknown effect.

I would advise caution on sealing up any holes that were open from the factory. Law of unintended consequences…if you stop the water from dripping into the frame, it might travel to a place that’s harde to keep an eye on. Rinsing that area super well (even using a salt dissolving product), descaling, then woolwaxing the ever-living daylights of that portion of the frame (inside and out), should stave off further corrosion.

Closing off any holes in the frame also could result in airflow conditions that make corrosion worse IMO. Better to use those holes to rinse out the inside of the frame regularly

 

UPDATE: First mechanic I took it to said they would not work on the vehicle due to extensive rust. However, I’m beginning to think southern mechanics. Evaluation of rust is not the same as northern mechanics. I called the dealer to ask if I could return vehicle, and they said no. Since the vehicle was inspected by their mechanic, and it passed Pennsylvania inspection. They are saying the damage cannot be as bad as what the mechanic is telling me. I have taken to a second mechanic and will hopefully get better news tomorrow. But right now I feel like I’m stuck with this lemon. it needs the AC fixed and dealer said he would work with me on repairing that, but I cannot return the vehicle. On the plus side it still looks good and drives great .

 

I think it looks great! Except for the radiator cross brace is starting to get eatin up? Get a wire brush, a drill, and a couple cans of POR paint?

 

Toyota dealer or used car dealer?

 

If in doubt, you should probably have walked or stall the deal whilst seeking advise.
How much mileage and cost out of the door to justify taking the risk.
Selling/Trade-in later would be challenge.

Feel your pain.

Just my 2cs.

 

Used car dealer seemed honest and had good reviews but there not budging on as is where is. I took delivery 600 miles away. Won’t make that mistake again

 

Agree but I’m stuck with it now hopefully it doesn’t get worse and we can ride it a few more years then scrap it if need be

 

What color is it? I might be interested? These new cars especially American cars. Are rolling off the lot and rusting the first year of ownership.

 

I saw it on the news.

 

Gray, I’m hoping the mechanic tomorrow gives me a better report. I honestly think there is plenty of life left considering it will be driven in south now but we will see.

 

2nd mechanic said not waste time doing any sort of treatment at this point. Since vehicle is in south now. Treatment won’t undo damage and further damage will be slow since we don’t have ice/salt. Anything I do will be diy since undercoating isn’t offered anywhere in the south. Should I waste my time trying to fluid film this thing in my garage? Or is it just pointless and going to wear off after a few months?

 

Well this is the coldest summer I can remember with the Canadian fires and such. It’s cold here earlier too. You may get an ice storm?

 

If it ice storms we would not have salt any way in the south. I could just stay off the roads for day then it’s gone. I just don’t want to waste my time an energy if treating the bottom isn’t really going to help in my situation.

 

Aww, everyone likes to drive 80 in an ice storm?

 

Since I don’t have jacks or a way to get under the vehicle and will not be driving in salt or snow Is it worth my time to mess with FF?
Can I just take a couple of cans of WD-40 and brush the bad spots and coat them with WD-40. It seems like all the recommendations I see are regarding the prevention of further salt damage but since salt is no longer an issue should I just leave it alone, and hope for the best?

 

If you don’t want to mess with it get POR rust inhibitor. That’s what I would do.

 

Your SUV will survive longer than most other brands new.

 

Can you get POR in spray form? I do t have a way easy reach all the crevises otherwise.

 

Hell, the AC broke on a brand new $100k Navigator. And the cameras went out.

 

Yes but you need gloves and a mask.

 

And the massaging seats.

 

How about a brand new BMW SUV. The whole electrical system went out and it was $2400 to reprogram?

 

No a Dodge, ya. Have to change 16 spark plugs at 40,000 miles?

 

Atleast the plugs don’t break off in the heads like a Ford?