New brakes install any pointers

So need to do my brakes, got a kit from online seller in USA as in Canada was having hard time getting parts. Any links to a good step by step on how to do brakes (Rotors/pads) in a 2021 4Runner?
Got these:

 

If you don't have a spreader you can use the old brake pads to push in the pistons. Other than that they are straight forward.

 

For taking off the rotors, in my previous cars there were 2 spots on the rotors where I could bolt through to force the rotors off the hub. Anything similar in the 4Runner, or am I going have to pound them off with a hammer.

 

Just did the front brakes on my 2019 last weekend. only issue I had was a caliper mount bolt that took me three days to finally get loose, other than that, the easiest brake job ever. if you've done brakes on any other vehicle before, the 4Runner should be easy. will put a link below to a video I used for reference.
Just curious, are you doing this as an upgrade or are your brakes already worn? I have a little over 77k miles on mine and still had 5mm left on my pads (I'm not used to getting that many miles so I just assumed they needed changing...)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5X7bgdpJfx0

 

Thank you for the link, I'm googling and oogling and found the same clip, what are the chances.
How hard was the rotor to get off, that is my main fear. Took me 3 hours of pounding with a hammer to get it off on my acura.

I need to replace as getting vibration when braking. Visually the rotors to me at least look pretty worn out (rust, gauges, and rough surface). Dealer also said the pads are very thin. From what I can see less the 4mm.

In the videos I saw, no one is putting any grease/brake lubrication on the pins that hold the brake pads in place. Shouldn't we be putting at least a little bit on the pins?

 

Watching vids as we speak. Doesn't seem too bad, but usually everything on videos looks easy.

YES, I am dreading taking off the wheels, I have 22's so they are heavy. Also the 4 Runner seems intimidating on the jack stands. but got to be done definitely sooner than later...

 

I used this vid. It was great.

https://youtu.be/SNEJ0Efvv3M?si=aHVktV8BD7Rrjev-

 

What is the bolt size (diameter and thread pitch) if you use the threaded holes for backing the rotors off?

 

On one of the videos I saw, a guy said M8 1.25".

 

It's exactly the same size as one of the bolts you remove when doing the brake job.

Might be one of the caliper bolts.

 

The front pins are purely for retention, but I descaled them so the pads were free to move about. I put a very thin layer of brake grease on them…more like I put on a thin layer that I mostly wiped off.

If you use pads to retract the pistons, keep an eye on them that they both go in together as much as possible. This might require repositioning whatever you’re using to squeeze them in.

 

I learned many brake jobs ago to take a bolt (can't remember the size) and thread it into those holes on the 'hat' portion of the rotor. couple of turns with a wrench and the rotors pop right off. Those pins just keep the pads from escaping out the back side of the caliper. no reason to grease. definitely wouldn't risk grease falling off and getting onto the pads/rotors

 

If you're dreading taking off wheels and intimidated by your truck on jack stands, you should bring it to a shop.

 

Wheel removal is a piece cake with these:

$196 DEWALT 20V MAX Cordless Impact Wrench, 1/2' Hog Ring, Includes LED Work Light and Belt Clip, Bare Tool Only (DCF891B)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YXXFPBJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

$14 Titan 21093 1/2" Drive x 21mm Non-marring Impact Deep Lug Nut Socket

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XMDSJC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

It's the same size as the brake line retaining bolt on the strut if you are removing OEM rotor.

 

that’s the one!

thanks for the clarification.

 

Are these better than OEM?

 

Will find out. Planning to install on Monday. Will see how long they last. On a side note the 4 runners have huge front rotors, and the rears are also vented which is a bit of surprise.

 

Need to thoroughly coat the brakes in antiseize to make sure the anti-lock function works every time. so you know it's solid advice. Professional mechanics commented their customers never come back to complain!



Jokes aside, the front caliper bolts can be quite tight. Soak them in penetrant (esp. the interface between the caliper and the knuckle) by as much time in advance as you can. Make sure your jacking method allows you to steer the tire left and right for better access. In my case my 17" breaker bar didn't have enough leverage. My Milwaukee stubby impact (250 ft-lb) couldn't get them to budge. I had to maneuver my Milwaukee mid-torque (500 ft-lb) in there and hammer on each bolt for about 10 sec before they loosened.

 

I haven't seen it mentioned in this topic, may have been mentioned in one of the videos...BUT the best advice I can give you is to back off the parking brake shoes before trying to remove the rear rotor, if you don't and the rotor/drum pulls outwards on the parking brake shoes it can and most likely will bend/straighten the pin that the shoe retaining spring/retainer is on and you will have to replace the pin and possibly other parking brake shoe mounting hardware....WHICH is the very worst part of the rear brakes assembly to put back together on these T4Rs because of the axle flange being i the way, all the rest is very easy, be sure to readjust the paring brake shoes after installing the new rotor, put on a couple of the lug nuts to keep the rotor tight to the axle flange to readjust the shoes, tighten the adjuster until the rotor won't turn easily and then back off the adjustment until the rotor turns freely.

 

@AuSeeeker, can you confirm the adjustment is made from the front side of rotor, I.e. through small hole on rotor that will need to be aligned to see the adjustment wheel? I noticed the back side has a metal plug thing where I have removed a rubber grommet plug in previous vehicles. Thanks

 

Yes the adjuster is accessed through the front of the rotor using a flat bladed screwdriver.

 

So, completed the 4 rotors and pads, as well as painting the calipers. 12 hours total with 2 brakes for couple of beers and a pop out for 2.5 hours to work for a emergency shipment.
Just have a first drive this morning still braking in the pads/rotors. Small concern it pulls to the right. Hoping it will go away as the pads/rotors brake in. I was a bit worried that the jack stands will colapsr as they were on full extension and looked like bending a bit but fortunately all worked well. Some pictures attached. The front driver side inboard pad was almost gone, so was passenger rear inboard.
I did forget to grease the rear of the pads where the pistons touch. Anyone know what it might cause?

Yes, i did put a cheesy trd sticker on the calipers.... I know...

 

Looks great!

 

So the pull to the right seems to be gone or is very minimal. Any recommendations what could case the pull when braking?
Very surprised how quiet the brakes are considering these are drilled and slotted. All my previous cars were noticeably louder but not this set.

Now for the bad, my steering wheel shimmy is back with vengeance. Before the brake job I would get occasional shake between 55mph to 60mph, now it's s pretty bad between 60mph to 70mph. So it's at higher speed and the range of speed it larger as well. This sucks....

 

A 2021 with worn out brakes? That's surprising. How many miles, and what kind of driving do you do? I replaced my rear pads on my 2019 at 92k miles and my fronts at about 117k. Thinnest pads had 2-3mm remaining. Didn't touch any of the rotors, as they were all good.

 

That's imressive, I bought it with 22,000 miles, and put on 15,000 miles of my own. Myself I don't baby it, mostly city driving with lots of braking. I do breakfast on the heavy side. The pads were pretty much gone, the rotors, not sure if you can judge from pictures but to me there were done.

 

Agreed that things looked quite worn in your case. My miles are lighter, mostly highway, and not a lot of in-town. I'm a light foot on gas and brakes. Plus, I tend to let off the gas a bit early when coming to a stop. My tires (OEM Duelers) even went past 90k.

 

So Google around shop that do a road force wheel balance. Decided to give it a try since brakes seem to work very well now. Out of the 4 wheels they could only balance 3. The one they couldn't balance they put on the back amd the vibration/shimmy seems to be gone. They recommend I see the place where I bought the rim/tire combo, but not sure what I can ask for.

 

Grease on the back of the pad is to mitigate corrosion and reduce noise. Most vehicles have anti-squeal shims on the pads which reduce the need for grease there. The more important thing is to grease the edges of the pads where they ride in the caliper, and grease the retainer pins, so the pads can slide freely.

You had uneven wear in the pads before. It's possible the caliper pistons aren't retracting properly when you let off the brakes. You might have a groove in the piston wall, etc. That may be causing the pull to the right. Try running a second anti-rattle clip in the upper retainer pin on the RH front caliper - it's an easy and cheap addition that helps to spread the pads apart when you let off the brakes.