Fluid Film question

I’m wanting to FF my new ORP. I was planning to spray targeted, but rather indiscriminately.
However, I read a review of a new 4Runner owner that sprayed FF and two transmission sensors went bad. Toyota almost did not honor the warranty.
Are there in fact places underneath that I must avoid, beyond the brakes?

 

Fluid film is lanolin based, which is supposedly safe for wiring and rubber.

I would go as far as avoiding spraying directly on wiring/sensors, but wouldn't worry too much about overspray. I'd also say that since the trans is aluminum, you don't need to directly spray that either. Hit the shifter linkages though, those will rust. I can tell you from experience, haha.

Do inside the doors, rockers, and hatch too.

I've had two corrosion problems in the last week: I had to drive 30 miles home with my hatch ratchet strapped closed because the catch was rusted to the point it was not functioning, and when attempting to change a plate light bulb I found the screw heads are so corroded that I cannot grip them with screwdriver. I'm planning on drilling them out. I'd suggest replacing yours with stainless at some point. The hatch I was able to free up with WD40 and is functioning properly now.

Also, I kind of question the link between the FF and sensor failure in the first place, sounds like the dealer being difficult. If they have a problem they can tell Toyota to do a better job of corrosion protection from the factory.

Like seriously, WTF Toyota? My Volvo is 6 years older than my 4Runner with no problems like this.

 

Hey OP
Fluid film is a great idea it's a top product for rust prevention for sure. Big thing is to try to get it into the frame holes and use a nozzle hose on an aerosol can even though they do clog easily and you will go through more product but whatever. I also have black color fluid film for black metal areas. I believe that 2013 to 2019 really didn't have the same quick rust issues that 2020 plus has had especially with areas like inside the doors and hatch and near the rear hatch emblems and such. I've never experienced any of these locations rusting on my 2016 but the undercarriage is another story. Highly recommend formula 3000 recommended by another member for hinges and the hatch location. Highly recommend POR15 under the truck before fluid film.
Goodluck!

 

I had fluid film done on my last 2 Toyotas. But I think I’m getting wool wax done on my new 23 4runner.

 

Yeah, I think that's preferable.

The PB Blaster Shield looks like a good option too for DIY.

 

@Trail Runnah is correct indeed, many say Blaster Surface Shield tops Fluid Film now!
One more thing, watch YouTube and apply these things yourself surprised how many people pay a shop to do this maintenance for them. Figuring out how to do it yourself is good for you long-term in so many ways.

Good comparison video:
https://youtu.be/mh9haqLocg0?si=nGz1MUXw2bNDywAb

Blaster SS:

 

Hello all - I have been in contact with a Linex Dealer, concerning their "Valu Gard" undercoating. It's asphalt base, and appears to be very durable. Any thoughts? thx....

 

Perhaps start your own thread brother
I couldn't tell ya sorry

 

Nooooo! Asphalt based makes me think this is some sort of goop, and the goofy stuff is terrible. It traps in moisture and it corrodes from the inside. It also makes it a PITA to work on.

 

Honestly, woolwax is prolly the number one recommended solution, and not anything asphalt based that's for sure. I personally don't like woolwax which sets in wet gel form forever. I'm a big backer of permanent, hard and dry POR 15.

Woolwax® is made from raw woolgrease/lanolin. Woolwax® sprays on wet and does not dry out. Woolwax® will thicken to a gel film after applied and is very resistant to wash off. * Provides vehicle undercarriage protection for a full season.

POR15 - Most paints dry through evaporation, but POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating dries faster when moisture is present. It has the opposite chemistry of ordinary paints. Now add to that POR-15® Rust Preventive Coating’s incredible hardness, toughness, and flexibility, and you have a coating that is practically indestructible. POR-15® is great for auto restoration and this incredible product is now sold in 52 countries around the world. Use POR-15® to protect expensive and valuable equipment against rust and abrasion. POR-15® also has excellent “surface tolerance,” which means it works very well on porous surfaces.

 

Fluid Film, Woolwax or surface shield have all been used on my vehicles and will continue to do so.

 

The thing I don't like about the POR15 is that it requires pretty intensive surface prep. And with that kind of prep, you're not going to be able to get it in all the places that you would be able to just spray something like a fluid film or wool wax.

 

Man it’s a tough decision between fluid film and wool wax. What I did not like about the fluid film you could see after it was done it’s like when it’s being applied there is like over over spray in the air that settles on the vehicle and my 23 Pro is going wrapped and ceramic coated in about 3 weeks. I wander if anyone with the wool wax noticed that on their vehicle after it was done. I have to speak with my local place doing the wool wax and see what they say.

 

FF flows better than WW, therefore better suited for inside frame and seams, in places where sand and water wil not wipe it out. Those places better cover with WW. after a while WW gets imbedded with dust particles giving it nice flat finish, thick.

 

I disagree por15 can literally be slapped directly on Rust that's the beauty of it that's their pitch. Their degreaser and metal prep steps, are like every company, just recommended you buy together with the paint but it's not even needed. You're probably right when it comes to getting in super tight places or inside the frame holes that's why I recommended black fluid film. Woolwax and fluid film and these competitors stay wet and; as effective as they are in that state, that's where I don't like them

 

Well the OP has a new one. Isn't POR15 more effective when applied over rust?

This is just my .02, I don't see the point of painting over clean paint. I get your point about not liking the "wet" finish, but I actually think that's a benefit.

 

I think you need to start by reading the label on the side of a por15 can. No it's not more effective on Rust. Some new 4Runner parts are painted others are not still a great idea por15 your undercarriage, especially the weld seams. It dries permanent, hammer strong. Where is woolwax and fluid film stay wet but need to be reapplied much sooner

 

My place wrapped my whole 4R in a disposable car cover from the roof down to prevent this exact issue. May want to consider this for the application.

 

I will check with him and see if he does that if I go with the wool wax. Thanks.

 

Yeah check out Griot or Woodward Fab disposable covers. I think they are $20 or less but worth not having the overspray

 

Surprised to hear 5 year old 4runners having serious rust issues…..are you guys not powerwashing the undercarriage salt off at least once a week in the winter?

My brother dailies his 6yo WRX and washes the undercarriage weekly in the winter, zero rust issues. Same with my previous VW. I bought a 3rd gen a few years ago as a winter daily and undercoated it with a combination of FF and CRC. Car spent its whole life in the northeast, was maintained in mediocre fashion, and the undercarriage isn’t too bad. Has definitely not gotten any worse these past few years with the undercoatings.

Still debating preventative options for my brand new one before the winter. Met a 70 series LC enthusiast owner who dailies a bunch of old LCs here in Boston year round and he swore by a product from PB Blaster, even over FF and CRC. His frame looked pretty solid for such an old truck with a billion miles on it. Might try that or that Canadian company that blasts their lanolin based stuff everywhere including inside body panels.

Regardless, I feel some oil based treatment beats nothing, just powerwash off in spring and reapply generously in fall. Avoid rubber, tar, etc semi-solid coatings at all costs imo. They’ll just trap moisture and accelerate rust from inside the frame which will rot it out faster than doing nothing to it.

 

I'm not power washing the salt off every week correct. In hindsight I'd try harder! But it's cold for months in Canada and today my automotive knowledge has grown tenfold

 

applying Fluid Film, Woolwax or PB Surface shield is way easier than power washing weekly in the winter, shit that’s a lot in the summer. new vehicle, apply on the spring and fall for the first 2 years, then in the fall.

 

I agree, thats what I do with my 3rd gen. It’s also better frame protection as salt can stay on an unprotected frame for days until you power wash it off.

But even with an undercoating, washing the rest of the car consistently in the winter is still necessary imo. Want to get salt off the body panels/gaps and paint too, even if sealed/waxed or ceramic coated.

It honestly isn't hard, even in the cold we get here. I would stop at one of those self wash bays on my way home from work once a week and give it a quick rinse. Maybe 10 minutes max and the bay shields you from the wind.

All depends on how far you’ll go to protect the car. If swapping cars every 5 years like most Americans, alot of this isn’t worth the hassle. But my 3rd gen is 23 years old and going strong (even with a less than careful previous owner for 20 years), so I plan to keep my 5th gen a long ass time with how OCD I get with maintenance/detailing.

 

Hitting up a pay and spray is something I do once in a while, but honestly it’s way out of my way, so I have to make it’s own thing. But it is needed a few times in the winter months.

 

Permanent stuff might be a real pain in the ass when it comes to mainatainance, especially when disconnecting harnesses or undoing bolts (which might not be the same size after getting sprayed). Also any thick permanent product has a risk of adhesion failure. Very hard or flexible coatings won’t chip off after adhesion failure, instead it retains it’s shape and acts as a bucket that holds salt-water/moisture against the metal.
Permanent coatings will need prep, they need to go on to a clean frame, I would not skimp on that.


Woolwax will eventually “dry” out once it gets saturated with solids, like dust and mud particles, so it’s not as messy as one would think. When it’s saturated with solids, it needs very little reapplication, and even then only on areas that get rubbed off by terrain contact, or the few areas where there is erosion by gravel (like lower shock mounts and rear of trailing arms).

Although, this drying out might not really happen on a 4runner that never sees dust/mud.