Old Man RSG Slider review / install

This is why I internet.

 

Has anyone had any issues with frame bolt holes not being clean enough for bolt insertion? Is it a must to use a thread chaser or can you just use brake cleaner and WD40?

 

Check out my build thread - I should have mine on in the next few days.

 

My 4runner was over three years old , 50K+ miles and other than brushing mud out of the way with nylon brush, I test fit one of the bolts in all the holes and had no issues. In Florida, so entirely rust free.

 

Not a bad idea to use a thread chaser if you have one. And anti seize when using mounting bolts.

 

Is the bolt size 12mm x 1.5mm (thread pitch)? Need to buy correct size chaser.

 

Is it felt by forum members the RSG sliders are better than the RCI? I have no idea. The RCI looks good and the shipping for me is only $89 vs $239 for RSG. Just wondering

 

You’d need to find someone who has used both in the same circumstances as you to make an intelligent statement. Everyone else can only say whether they like what they have.

If I were you, I’d read up on the installs and watch videos, and see whether anything concerns you.

 

RSG flat top grip plate is what made the decision between the 2 for me. If your not using the slider as a step this doesn't matter.

 

Same here. I want to minimize issues with slipping on snow/slush/ice.

 

Same here, plus the shipping cost from RSG in my case was the best I could find for any slider.

 

I was between the RSG and westcott sliders. I want them more for a step then a slider. I’m not leaning towards the Tyger Stars I had on my other 4Runners. They stick out further and gives you more to step on plus the door dings than prevent. Anyone have a measurement how far the RSG stick out?

 

I have the kickout. Not really sure where to start measuring from on how they stick out. I took a yard stick at driver door handle and dropped it to slider. About 2" additional from where yard stick was. Not sure if this is a good measure. They definitely add some door ding protection. I park a car in garage next to it and have to be careful opening the doors or they connect with the sliders.

 

Thank Todd, Yeah I was more interested in the front door area because I was going with the kick out also and it definitely sticks out further there. So if you take tape measure with the front doors open you have about 3 or 4 inches to stand on by putting the tape against the door sill part of the body correct. Thanks Don.

 

Driver door open looks like 4"

 

Thank Todd, That’s what I have been trying to find. I appreciate it. Don.

 

If you want the top plate (as a step) it looks like the RSG plate is welded on whereas the RCI looks like it attaches with Allen head screws. If what I am seeing in the picture is correct, I would prefer the welded top plate.

 

I like the welded plate. Not sure if anyone would find it useful to remove the plate for cleaning it out. I am lucky to live in no rust state not worrying about it.

 

2023 model in SC? No need for thread chaser. Spray Nine (for the high surfactant level) followed by compressed air to clean out the holes. Install bolts with Fluid Film.

 

Tubing used by RSG looks pretty thin. RCI uses 1.75" which IMO is the minimum for rocks.

 

RSG is 2” main tube, 1.75” outer tube. RSG is a bit heavier than RCI. RCI about 45lbs, My RSG Flat with kickouts were 57 lb per side.

 

Looks like RCI doesn't allow you to choose between DOM or HREW but outer rails are DOM

• 1.75″ DOM outer rails for uncompromised strength

 

Does anyone Jack their 4 Runner by the sliders? Is it understood that’s not a problem? Or is it? Like at the tire shop do you need to tell them it’s ok or NOT to do that? I had a technician almost set a Jack under the edge of fuel tank skid vs frame on driver rear wheel. Very close. Would be convenient if had sliders that easily handle vehicle weight.

 

Has anyone ordered their RSG or RCI sliders in “bare metal” finish. Then primed and painted it themselves? The coatings seem to cost about $200. Just wondering if the bare metal finish is readily amenable to painting or is sandblasting required? If just wiping the metal down with alcohol and rags to remove any oily substance is adequate to paint?

 

Yeah, I had to run a tap through mine. There were 1 or 2 per side that I didn't have the space to get the tap in straight, I never did get the bolts into those.

I also needed to run a tap through some holes when installing my Apex Overland front recovery points.

 

I did mine. It took me a full weekend and about 60 bucks in materials. It's held up remarkably well considering I did it myself, but honestly I regretted not getting the PC.

Not only did it take a weekend, but it took forever to wait for a nice weekend where I had both the time and ambition. These sat in the box a better part of a year before I got to them.

I looked in having them powder coated locally, would have been close to 400 bucks.

 

Yup. I'd done front & rear bumpers on a Jeep previously, and it's a lot of work. The $150 cost of the powder coat from RSG was well worth it to me.

 

Powder coat was excellent. Even though I am cheap, no regrets. Also being cheap I waited for a free shipping promo which they seem to have several times a year. August free shipping was available. Since I am in Florida, that made a big difference. Also, they did allow stacking of the veterans discount with the free shipping.

 

The shipping charge is huge. Currently RSG is charging $239 shipping via UPS to my house in SC. RCI uses FedEx for $89? Seems a huge disparity. I will be watching for a Promo from RSG

 

Mine were shipped in two 60lb boxes, well protected.