ARB twin compressor install

Decided to do a write up on an ARB air compressor install in my 2018 TRD ORP. I found some good information in various places, but wanted to compile it all in one place. This is my first time doing a write up and it was my first time doing any sort of electrical install. I will say it was much easier than I thought and that the compressor mount install was the most hassle of it all. That said I took my time and it was all in all fairly easy.

Here’s what I bought:

- ARB Twin air compressor (CKMTA12)
- ARB air up kit (contains the hose, chuck, and attachments for airing up different items)
- Wit’s End pacifier (not needed, but bought to keep debris out of chuck when not In use).
-Rago Fabrication mount
-CH4x4 on board air switch (ARB provided switch does not fit in stock accessory slot).
- 6ga and 8ga terminal rings (got on Amazon)
- mini low profile fuse taps (got on amazon)

Everything else I needed I had, but I’ll outline below.


(not my photo, stole it from expedition portal as I forgot to take a photo of how everything came before I started modifying things).

I started with the wiring harness and getting those configured how I wanted them. I did this inside in the AC as it gets a little warm here in Texas. It was also much easier to do sitting at a table versus in the engine bay or cab.

First I combined the two hot (red) cables by stripping some of the plastic sheathing, fanning out the strands on the wires on each run, twisting them together, and crimping with a 6ga terminal ring connector. Make sure to slide the heat shrink wrap over the wires before crimping on the terminal ring. Do the same for the negative (black) wires using an 8ga terminal ring. Used a heat gun to shrink the wrap.





Next I added the fuse taps to the harness that will be used on the interior to connect the power switch. Strip a little of the protective covering from each wire. Place the exposed wire into the butt connector of the fuse tap. One to the red/yellow wire and the other to the blue/white wire. Use a crimp to tighten the connector to the wire.


(Not my photo, cropped from the one above from expedition portal)

I added a 15a fuse to the top portion of each fuse tap. If you don’t have these you’ll need two 15a mini low profile fuses. Also make sure the fuse taps are for the mini low profile fuses.

Then spliced in the connector for the CH4x4 switch to the isolator switch wiring from the ARB harness using a butt connector. Both black wires from the ARB harness will connect to the CH4x4 black wire. Crimp ends of exposed wires into butt connector.



(photo not mine, taken from tacomaworld)

For the harness that will connect the compressor to the interior harness I used a box knife to cut a small slit in the boot in the firewall. I then taped the end of the harness that needs to go through to a flat piece of 1/2 wide bar stock (though a long screw driver or wire coat hanger would work the same) and pushed it through the slit I made in the boot. I did this before installing the compressor and mount as it will be difficult to reach after.


(Not my photo, cropped from the one above from expedition portal)



As for the two exposed plugs for the optional manifold, I taped them to the harness as I would not be using them.



(Not my photo, taken from trail4runner)


Using the wires you pulled through the firewall, attach the supplied plug to connect the wires as indicated in the below diagram, match the wires by color (except purple will go to red).



Using the CH4x4 switch connector plug you connected to the ARB harness earlier, select which slot you’d like the switch to go in. I chose to use the slot next to the converter. I’m not going to go over how to remove the panel as there is plenty of that info out there, but they simply pull loose, just be careful not to to hard and potentially crack the plastic. Then, Pull the blank button out, pass the connector through the hole for the switch, plug in the CH4x4 switch, and push it into place until it clicks.



For switch 1 and 2 connectors on the harness (I did not use them as they are for lockers), I zip tied them back to the harness out of the way.

Using the fuse taps you added earlier, select a slot in the fuse panel under the dash to plug them in. I used the “P/OUTLET” fuse for the red/yellow wire and the “PANEL” fuse for the blue/white. Simply remove the existing fuse from those locations, add that fuse to the bottom slot on the fuse tap, and plug back in. For me I selected these so that the compressor will not run without the 4Runner on and so that the switch will illuminate with the dash when the lights are turned on.




Install the compressor to the rago mount using the ARB supplied fasteners. I did not photograph this as the rago mount already has pre drilled holes so this is simply matching these up and tightening them down. I used some thread locker as an extra precaution.



Install The two provided hex head bolts and large washers into the two holes in the fender. Leave them about 1/2” or so out so the mount can pass between the washer and the fender for install. I forgot to take a photo of them loose so the photo is after the mount is installed to give you an idea of the attachment.



Next use the three holes in the fender well, just above the top of shock perch, to thread the supplied bolts through. I ended up using hex head bolts (6mm x 1.0) in two of the three locations, as the supplied Allen head ones were a pain to use in my opinion. The hex head allowed for a ratcheting wrench and was much easier due to the limited space. I removed the tire (285/70R17) to make access easier during install, but I think jacking up the front end would have provided enough space to work in without removing the tire. I Also recommend using a 6mm x 1.0 tap to clean the holes and the threads for the studs as mine had some dirt in them.



After that add the compressor and mount by lowering it in over the studs coming through the fender well and resting on the bolts in the fender. I found inserting the mount slightly angled down toward the back worked best. I used a deep well 10mm socket, swivel, and extension to get the nuts tightened down on the studs through the fender well as this is a tight awkward space. Although you can only see two studs and nuts in the below photo, there are three. Also I ended up using larger washers after installed the first one as the ones supplied by Rago were too small in my opinion and the initial one partially fell into the slot in the mount.



I then installed the chuck I received in the air up kit by wrapping the threads in plumbers tape and threaded it into the designated spot in the top of the compressor.

From there connect the harness from the switch to the compressor and the harness that will run from the battery to the compressor. There’s only one way these connect and the connectors are obvious. Then hook the negative cable to the negative battery terminal and the positive cable to the positive terminal. Do not have the vehicle on when doing this.



Lastly turn on the vehicle and test the compressor by pressing the switch. The compressor should cycle on and then off quickly. This is normal as there is nothing for the compressor to fill really and will reach pressure quickly. I tested by airing down a tire then back up.

Once I made sure everything worked I used zip ties to mount the excess battery cables under the mount and excess switch cables under the dash.

diagrams taken from install manual unless otherwise noted.

 

Nice write up. I already used mine once and was impressed how fast it will fill the 33” tires.

 

Thank you. So far I’m very impressed with it.

 

Thank you for doing this! On my list of stuff to do

 

Thank you!!!! OMG, THANK YOU!!

 

Nice write up. Installed the ARB compressor recently in my 4R as well along with the Rago mount. I have it hooked up to my sPOD. I have another ARB compressor mounted in my Jeep for years and I use it a lot for tires and helping out others on the trail.

 

Sub for when I'm ready to tackle my install

 

Added a few photos to show the splice of the ARB isolator switching wiring to the CH4x4 harness.

 

When you installed to the spod did you just cut the line and run solely off the purple and black wire to activate the compressor with the spod

 

I used the sPOD adapter and here is a picture of the connection between the sPOD and the compressor.

 

Do you have a picture of where the red white went by chance ?

It’s weird the spod adapter has a red wire on since the arb doesn’t.

 

In my first picture, the black and purple wires are the ones that go to the sPOD and the other end of the adapter with the black, purple and red wire comes from the main ARB wiring harness.

I attached a picture of the other end of the sPOD adapter where it connects to the sPOD. Let me know if this helps? I did not cut any wires from either the main ARB harness or the sPOD adapter that connects to the sPOD wire. Any excess wires (lockers etc..) I just taped up out of the way.

 

Ok I understand now. I’m still wiring mine and I don’t have the room for the rest of that wiring harness so I’m contemplating cutting the arb switch harness and just using the ground and purple activation wire for my switch panel and then just tossing the rest of the wires unless someone needed it

 

I just bundled the excess wiring up and tucked it away.

 

Looks like you did what I was talking about with just the purple and black wire

 

Can anyone tell me what this compressor weighs? I've already got a lot of weight in the front end with a pending bumper and winch install (@+100lbs.) plus shackles, lights etc. I'm probably close to 150lbs. in the front end already. Taking up more under hood real estate and more weight probably already has my mind made up to not install this, but I am curious on weight. More than likely I will buy the Milwaukee 2 gallon,18v compressor. Its a bit heavy but I'll put it in back or by the rear seats and I can use it for tools at home as well as on the trail. I can also use it to help others and not have to have a 50ft. or 100ft. hose. Its also half the price.

 

Shipping weight is right at 27 lbs it’s not lite but it’s not overly heavy. Why not mount it in the rear ? And I’d add another 40 lbs to your bumper winch weight as well unless you bought aluminum in which I wouldn’t plan on doing any heavy winching with.

 

Thank you for the info...Its a hybrid bumper and they say once you remove the stuff that comes off and put it on it only adds 40lbs.

 

Hello everyone. I just installed my compressor, works great. I took the ARB switch off and replaced it with a CH4x4 switch as it fits the factory cut out in my 4Runner. I have been researching the differences between the two switches (ARB & CH4x4). What I think I know is that the CH4x4 needs a separate relay and the ARB switch has one built in? The CH4x4 switch is rated at 3 amps and that's the need for the relay. Does anyone know about wiring in a relay to allow safe use of the CH4x4 switch. Some people say that they don't use a relay and it works fine, others say use a relay because the switch cannot handle the power and gets hot...eventually welding the switch together and then the compressor doesn't shut off, and or possible fire risk. CH4x4 says the switch must be run with a relay, but doesn't show what that looks like. Thoughts on how to use a 4pin spst in this set up? I would pay someone to do it for me, but I like to learn as much of this stuff as I can. I really appreciate anyones knowledge and time in advance.

Addition to original post: I think I have it figured out. I found this online "Yea you don't need to add a relay to activate a relay. The twin compressor has all relays built into unit and actually they are wired as separate circuits on load power side. Just take your relay activation wire and run them to your Toyota factory switch".
I then went to a local shop and had them look at the set up and they said that I have it correctly installed and do not need a relay for the twin compressor.
I am hoping this is all correct, so for now it's what I'm going with.
I am not sure if the single compressor had a different relay set up and required one to be wired in or not? I found way more info for wiring in a single compressor with a relay rather than a twin. Either way I have learned a lot more about wiring and relays than I knew before, so I appreciate that.

 

Great job on the write up. Thank you for posting.

I just carry a Viair88 portable in the back.

 

Thanks for the detailed write-up with photos, very very helpful.

I've always just carried a portable Viair in the back, have often thought about a dual compressor ARB on-board.

My only question is having the switch inside the cab. Having never used the ARB, this may be a dumb one, but....wouldn't it be easier to have some kind of remote switch, so, when you're at each tire, you just hit the switch to inflate rather than running back and forth to the cab? Or, do you just turn on the switch, and the ARB turns on/off automatically somehow? Again, never used the ARB, so, please excuse if it's a stupid question.

 

The arb dual cuts off when it’s little micro tank gets full which is literally just a few seconds. And once it releases air it turns back on. I just had a complete failure with a moorflate using my dual and I am switching back to just a single lead for each tire. I may look into the wifey system down the road.

 

(necropost alert!!!)

Sorry to dig up an old thread but I want to confirm something on this same topic. I have acuired the parts to install the ARB twin with the CH4x4 switch. Only for airing, no lockers, no manifold.

Reading though this thread and studying the wiring diagrams I believe that I can do the following:
* Toss the entire secondary switch harness
* Unwrap the first switch harness and discard YEL, DK.GRN
* Wire switch harness purple (compressor solenoid activate) to RED1 on the switch
* Wire swich harness black (common ground) to BLACK on the switch
* Tap an ignition hot source (ideally though ARB diode) to the GREEN on the switch
* Tap a dash illumination to the RED2 on the switch


I just want somebody who has done this to double check me

 

So I finished the install on my '23 and learned some things:


1 - If you are just inflating and using CH4x4 switch literally the only wire you need from the switch harness is the purple. All the switch does is tie that to +12v to activate the relays. You can pick up ground and switched +12v near the switch under the dash.

2 - So I stripped the harness down to just the purple and black (before I realized even black wasn't critical) switch wires and ran them through the big harness, out of it at a point that lined up with the right corner, and though the big grommet under the brake booster to the dash.

3 - The illumination dimmer circuit must have changed on new ones? My ‘23 dims by varying the voltage on the ground side of the pair of illumination wires (so at half illumination you have +6v and +12v, rather than 0v and 6v for example). So if you try to tap the wire that’s changing voltage as you work the dimmer it lights up backwards. I used the +12v (striped yellow?) illumination lead and its basically on/off with the headlights, no dimming.

4 - Accessory +12v is the green wire on the factory switches.

5 - There are little plastic fingers in the switch socket that will stop the CH4x4 switch from searing fully and staying on if you don't trim them

6 - MORE passenger side mount fits fine with 50 state emissions. Air pump has moved to the front (same place as on Taco's)

7 - The fender bolt location that the MORE mount uses seems to have moved slightly and wouldn't line up. I had to hack it a little.

8- [edit] The quick release coupler on top of the twin compressor doesn’t fit with the hood closed. I thought it did at first but the hood bulged. Gonna run out and get a 90 elbow tomorrow….

Overall not hard. Probably 2-3hr total spread over 2 days, most of that time dealing with the wiring.

 

Congratulations on your install harkin. I prefer the passenger side firewall location too. I used a Bandi Mount and switchpros on a powertray. Nice and clean install. Enjoy!

mike

 

Jharkin,

Where did you get passenger side mount? Currently running RAGO, nothing wrong with it, just want to use space on passenger side to clear up space on drivers side and for me make fuse box more easily accessible. Also Are you running a tank?

Thanks, JC

 

sorry guys totally noob here , trying to install this arb twin to a Garmin power switch , anyone can explain or direct me to a simple wiring?? cannot find a video or source for this wiring since I don't have to have a switch for the arb in my truck, thanks you all

 

I believe you just run the purple wire on the main harness to the power switch and thats it. Wire in the rest of the harness to the compressor and battery as normal but the power to the actual switch (purple i believe) just needs to be wired in to one of the outputs of the garmin power switch. I'll have to look at the wiring diagram the compressor came with to confirm the color of that wire but its the only wire thats going to run from the compressor harness to inside the cabin of the truck to a physical switch (if you were to use one)

 

Get rid of the spaghetti harness with all the plugs.

The two fused power leads and their ground go to your battery.

All you need is to connect the purple control wire to the sPod/SwitchPro/Garmin trigger point.

Option 1 (Cheapest): Cut off the ARB plug and crimp a wire to the trigger.

Option 2 (Inexpensive): Buy an sPod ARB adapter for $18. This gives you four wires. Unless you are running air locker solenoids, all you need is to run one wire - pretty sure it is the red one - to the Garmin. You can fold the other three wires over and tape them over in case you ever install an air locker.

Option 3: (Expensive): Get the control and power wires from Blaze Offroad. I think they make custom control wires for $60 and power wires with a fuse for $100.

 

i will try this and update you guys thanks !