Need help - 2nd Gen Morimoto Fuses on 2022 ORP

Is it wise to not use the fuse though?

 

Thanks for all the advice from those before, the issue I’m having is I can’t seem to get the high beams to work. I’ve confirmed I have the correct harness, I’ve connected everything by following the diagram, have tried using the DRL with the fuse and without still no difference. Is there a chance I blew a relay?

 

@Dielawn

I am having the same issue. Finally got my DRL’s to work but still having issues with high beams. Did you find anything else out?

 

Glad you were able to get the DRL's to work for you. I finally made a break through and have my high beams fully functional for the past few days. After going through and ensuring the proper connections from the headlights, wiring harness and all that good stuff I decided to dive into the fuse box. I ended up pulling out the H-LP HI fuse, it's yellow and 20 amp, when I was looking at it somehow over the course of all of this it blew. I went ahead and got another 20 amp and put it in there and now my high beams work with no issues.

If you have any questions with that let me know.

 

Thanks for the tip regarding the high beams. I am hoping that is exactly my issue and I just need to replace that fuse. I took my 4R to Toyota today and he reset all the codes that were triggered. He really was pushing not to use the EFI 2 because it creates issues. He also said he has seen a number of folks come in with issues and said Toyota does not do well with aftermarket headlights. We’ll see, I am going to try and unplug it completely and hope that works. Turns out Morimoto did send me the Pro harness so it isn’t that. If not, I will try mirror heater or INJ and see if I can get the same results. Will let you know if I can get the high beams working. Thanks

 

I'm hoping it's as simple as a fix as it was for me in the end, glad you got those codes reset. For me I don't have anything going into my fuse box what so ever, I'm only utilizing the wiring harness to get power to the headlights for the low/high beam and the DRL lights. If you take out your fuse for the H-LP HI, take it and hold it up to the light (sun) whatever you have and check to see if the wire inside the fuse is still connected, if it's disconnected it's blown and causing the issue, I replaced mine with a 20amp but if it gets blown again I'm gonna move into a 25 amp so it can handle the headlights being aftermarket.

 

This did it for me! Fuse was blown in the 20in so I replaced it with a 25amp. Figuring that initial spike of electricity when they are first engaged won’t blow the 25 amp. Working right now so big thank you to the suggestion.

Now, I am still plugged into the EFI 2 with the add a fuse provided to work the DRL. You aren’t using that at all? I prefer not to use the add a fuse if I don’t have to because I have Cali Raised raptor lights that are suppose to go there or under the dash fuse box. What did you do to ge the DRL to operate by not using the add a fuse? You just removed the entire harness provided? What are you doing with the DRL plugs coming from the headlight that are plugged into the add a fuse harness?

Appreciate and additional help with this. Morimoto just keeps telling me to plug into the EFI 2 fuse spot.

 

I went back and checked to see how I'm wired in, have you tried disconnecting your DRL harness from the EFI 2 and switching your lights to DRL only and checking them? The only other thing I believe I did differently is on the harness from Morimoto, their is a connector that has a red wire and a yellow rubber grommet on the plug that I have connected into the DRL harness from the headlight harness on the passenger and driver side. I suggest against the EFI 2 slot from Morimoto's suggestion, the only thing I might hook up to that fuse would be fang lights if that.

 

I wanted to connect both of these threads together so combined they can hopefully address any issues someone in the future might experience.

https://www.4runners.com/threads/morimoto-xb-led-headlights-2021-4runner.32525/#post-470380

 

This is becoming a skit from Monty Python now. If I had any reason to take my front end off again, I would take these out and send them back to Morimoto.

I removed the DRL harness from EFI 2 and replaced it with what was there. Triggered my check engine light, TRAC Off, and the other traction icon (green truck on green line). Looks like I am headed back to the dealership tomorrow.

I currently have the DRL harness out completely. Tomorrow, I will plug it into the DRL headlight wires and leave it unplugged from the fuse panel to see if that works. If not, I am going through the firewall and will plug it into an AUX in the fuse panel under the dash. That is my last option with getting these DRLs to work. According to Morimoto it should work. Then again they too suggested EFI 2 as well so my faith in this company has been reduced to a granule of sand.

Beyond frustrating now. This is just becoming an annoyance that I can frankly do without. To add insult to injury, I received the email that my back ordered Morimoto tail lights have been shipped to my house. Not touching those until I get the DRL’s squared away.

Silver lining is I have high and low beams working, Parking lights all working including the ambers, and the Baja Squadron fogs (which were a piece of cake to set up) all working.

 

I hear ya man, gotta hang in there... these things whooped my ass and made me regret my whole decision but once you breach to the other side it's worth it.

Sorry to hear about the check engine light and etc. I had that issue once and thankfully haven't had to experience it again.

I don't know what is different with my situation on how I have the DRL's connected and have complete power, somehow even before I had the harness to make the high beams work I had low beam and DRL power.

I installed the Morimoto taillights first and those are what gave me the inspiration and courage to pursue the headlights, the taillights were a breeze... took a little manhandling to pull them out but didn't have any electrical issues like I did with the headlights. I promise this complete look is worth it and badass.

 

LED lamps shouldn't be pulling anywhere near 300 watts of power. If you are blowing 20 amp fuses and getting a Christmas tree's worth of lights on the dash, I'd seriously consider reinstalling stock headlights until Morimoto can provide satisfactory instructions and results. Pulling power from EFI fuses is a great way to strand the vehicle if it's not wired correctly.

 

Yes, I think the root cause of these problems is replacing a passive load with an active one and trying to accommodate the transients by using bigger fuses.

 

I wound up pulling the entire DRL harness off and then waited 24 hours for my frustration to subside. The next day, I connected only the harness to the actual DRL jacks running from the headlights and sure enough, they work. I just tucked the fuse tap that Morimoto provides and originally wanted to go to EFI 2 with the rest of the harness behind the drivers side headlight.
I almost prefer this way better because now I have control over whether I want to run DRLs or not. If I leave them on at the stalk, they turn off when the truck is off and then will do their cycle once I turn the truck back on. If I do not want to run DRL, I just switch to the Off position on the stalk.

Took a lot of trial and error but I think I am out of the woods. Now onto the tail lights which are being delivered today.

 

Good deal brother, glad that fixed your issue! Good luck on the taillights, this should be a walk in the park now.

If you run into any issues or got questions let me know, more than happy to help.

 

About to do this install myself in a '23 ORP and just want to make sure I understand: so you aren't using the DRL fuse tap at all? Honestly, I don't want to use it either if I don't have to. Too many issues when reading about it. Sounds like Morimoto recommends IGN2 now instead of EFI2.

I would like the ability to control DRL with the stock switch if it works, and refrain from any sort of fuse tapping.

Do you think bypassing the DRL harness is what causes that 20A fuse to blow?

 

Yes, I used the fuse tap at first and could not get them to work. Somebody mentioned to me that I can just omit that altogether. I had all the lights working except the DRL. I think only one worked or something. I then unplugged the fisted but left the wires in the harness connected to the headlights. In doing so, I can now control the DRL with the switch on the column and everything works. I just had to adjust the beams because they were pointing low out of the box.
Now, I just turn the 4Runner on and if I have DRL on the headlights run that cycle with each bulb and the DRL will be on. If I turn the switch to off they go off.

Hope that helps. Let me know how it turns out.

-Mike

 

This sounds great, excited to put them in now, was getting a little nervous after reading about all the issues. I will keep you posted!

 

Probably beating a dead horse by now but I assume the reason this works without plugging in the DRL fuse-tap is because the newer bi-LED light models get 12v on the DRL blue wire already, so there is no need for supplemental fuse-tap alongside the harness? Sounds like previously they only got 6v. Would need to confirm myself with a multimeter. Planning on installing this weekend.

Seems like I could omit plugging in the fuse-tap entirely but I will wire it anyways and leave it accessible in case I need to plug it in at some point / for testing.

 

Newest cars (22 and up) have DRL bulbs wired in series so they each get 6V and are dimmed that way.

Older cars that used DRL functions on the same bulbs as the high-beams received pulsed 12V voltage (PWM) so that halogen bulbs don't fully ignite. Then they get full +12V for regular high-beam duty.

 

Great information! Thank you

 

Update on this: installed the headlights in my 2023 ORP yesterday. Went very smooth, ended up not connecting the DRL fuse tap at all. Seems to function perfectly. DRL can be controlled using the stock headlight switch. Low/High beams function correctly.

 

satoshi - what kind of harness did you use on your 23 ORP install? I notice there are two different options for the "LF531H" Harness - one that specifically calls out being for "2021 Limited / TRD Pro Only" that looks like it only has the connection for the halogen to LED high beams, and one with all headlight connections that is labeled as "2021-2023 OE LED" which I understand is for trims that have both OEM LED Lo and Hi.

Reading through this forum, it sounds like people have gotten either to work even with having LED-Lo and Halogen Hi (by omitting to connect the hi-beam port). Which did you use? Still working as they should?

Thank you all for helping walk me through this! Installed these on my 23 ORP that I bought through 4Runner Lifestyle and with the harness they sent (the LF531H-2) I do not have functioning Hi-beams. Hoping the different harness will help but want to make sure I am picking the right one.

 

The LF531H is the one you need, since you have LED low and high beams. The LF531H-2 is only for older years that still used a halogen for the high beam.
The LF531H does have a confusing label since it says 2021 limited or pro only, but it's valid on all newer 4runners that have LED for both low/high beam. Morimoto has done a poor job of updating their instructions, labeling and website for this information.

https://www.morimotohid.com/toyota-4Runner-XB-headlight-adapter_3?quantity=1

With that LF531H harness, every function works on my 23 ORP perfectly and I never connected the DRL fuse tap harness during the install.

 

Thank you! I have the exact same model as you, with the LED Low & Halogen High beams. Is the harness you linked in your reply the one that you installed?

These are the two options I am finding online that are both labeled "LF531H":
Option 1 (the one you linked): https://www.morimotohid.com/toyota-4Runner-XB-headlight-adapter_3?quantity=1
Option 2 (Amazon link):

$78 Morimoto XB LED Headlight Adapter, Fits Toyota 4Runner2021 Limited / TRD Pro Only, Plug and Play Harness (1x LF531H)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09HMTP834

 

The one I linked from Morimoto looks exactly like what I installed. The Amazon link seems right in the description but the picture is something else.

 

They both came in and are in fact, identical! Thank you so much for the help on this, satoshi!

 

I installed the new harness (LF531H) last night and everything is working perfectly (including DRL fuse tap) after some other tweaks - if anyone is having a hard time with this like I was and wants another opinion on set-up / what to get...
I have a 23' TRD ORP and ordered these through 4Runner Lifestyle, who sent the LF531H-2 harness with the lights. I also have raptor lights and the Aiden James Customs LED Fang lights, which will come up later when adding the DRLs fuse tap.
When I installed the LF531H-2 harness, the LED Low lights worked, but I was not able to toggle between the high beams / even get those to fire. The DRL's would turn on only when I turned my stock to parking lights (which was expected as I did not connect the DRL fuse tap at this point so I could troubleshoot the other issues).
After reading through this thread (thank you guys again) I ordered the LF531H harness and installed (be careful when connecting as each harness is passenger/driver side-specific).
Before installing the DRL fuse tap, I tested the new harness which did solve the High-beams issue and I was able to get both low and high beams to toggle even when using the Auto-high beam function on the road. Again, I was only able to get the DRLs to turn on with the parking lights on the stock on, so I decided to connect the DRLs fuse tap.
Installing the DRLs Fuse Tap:
The tap Morimoto provides is too tall to allow the cover of the fuse/relay in the engine bay to close, so I purchased these Low-Profile Fuse Taps on Amazon: https://a.co/d/cpKh3x5
I cut the larger fuse tap provided and connected the Low-Profile tap to the DRLs harness, and planned to plug these into the "IGN" fuse in the engine bay relay/fuse box. I already had a fuse tap there for my raptor lights and AJC Fang Lights, which I had tapped together so I would only need one fuse tap in the engine bay fuse box and limit the clutter. I decided to reroute this fuse tap to the inside cabin by going through the firewall grommet and tapped into the "IGN" 10amp fuse under the steering wheel. There is a shop on Etsy that sells higher profile fuse box covers so you're able to keep the cover and fuse diagram picture which is pretty cool - linked here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/914635945/toyota-4runner-2020-extended-fuse-cover?ref=yr_purchases
After rerouting the raptor and AJC Fang Lights to the cabin fuse box, I went back to wiring the DRLs and used the "IGN" 10amp fuse along with another 10amp fuse, but when I tried to start my car it wouldn't even turn. So I swapped the "IGN" 10amp location for the DRLs to the fuse below it, "IGN No. 3", and using the 10amp fuse from this new slot along with a 15amp fuse in the DRLs Low Profile tap, got everything to turn on as expected.
This setup does limit the ability to turn off the DRLs with the stock at the wheel, but provides brighter DRLs whenever the car is turned on (they will become less bright when stock is switched to Parking Lights).
Now it's only been half a day since the install, but I have started the car up a dozen times to test the new setup and it seems to be working just fine. The headlights low and high beams still function properly with the new harness, and the raptor lights and AJC LED Fang lights still function properly as well.

I hope this helps align everyone's findings and experiments with these lights and anyone trying to install these isn't scared away by it - if I can do it you definitely can! Thank you all again for starting and keeping this thread rolling, helped me out a ton!

 

Anyone with a 2023 SR5 find a solution that works? I got the harness for the LED lo and halogen hi since that is what my oem headlights have. I’ve tried the add a fuse and tried without it. I have no high beams and DRLs only come on when I’m one click above DRL on the turn stock. If I have the fuse in then I just have passenger side only DRL. Never hi beams though. I’ve checked the hi beam fuse and it’s fine. I’ve made sure all the connections are tight as well. So frustrating.

 

Your OEM lights have bi-LED projectors for low and high beam. The halogen bulbs in your headlights are DRL only.