Torn on which lift... 5100 or 6112... '17 SR5

I have a 17 SR5, I'm really wanting to throw some new shoes and socks on her, and at the same time add a lift to the mix.

I'm going with some stock TRD's, MAYBE the FX pros since they are a little wider, stock size 265/70/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws, and one of two lift kits:

I'm torn on either this kit:

Bilstein Shocks 47-259768 33-187174 compatible with 2010-2016 Toyota 4Runner Strut & Spring + Rear 5100 Shock

https://www.amazon.com/Bilstein-Spr...231385&sr=1-10&keywords=bilstein+5100+4runner

or this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0723GP6NV/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1HOUL4PFBA877&colid=31VJ2H1ASCQG5&psc=0

I do zero offroading, I do tow a very light trailer with a dirt bike in it at times. Mostly what I'm looking for is better road handling, I don't want to lose any comfort, I don't want the ride to get worse.

The difference between the two kits is roughly $450, not chump change, I want to get somewhere between the .85 and 1.85" lift, nothing more.

I'd like to do it right the first time, I have roughly 6k miles on her so far, and plan on owning this rig for many, many years.

Any advice would be great.
Mario

 

Man, honestly, if you are just wanting a 0.85"-ish lift more for appearance than off road function, and are going to retain stock tire size, I think you are best served by putting 5100s on the front with the factory coils, adjusting for height preference at 1st or second notch, and leaving the back alone. You'd have $200, plus install, and alignment in that. If you want the rear to still have rake then add a spacer to the rear. None of these things will negatively affect ride or towing ability.

This is close to the second kit you have referenced but you don't really need to replace the rear shocks.

The first kit you referenced is a good price, and people seem to love the 6112s, but totally more than you need for 0 offroad. 5100s would be just fine.

Regardless of how you choose to proceed, you can probably get them cheap through Amazon, but why not spend $5 more and support a forum sponsor like Wheelers or Toytec or similar?

 

Another option if you like the ride of your stock shocks, just get some Eibach lift springs from @ToytecLifts and install them on your factory shocks. I did this on our 2018 SR5 Premium and it lifted the front 1.5". Then I put 275/70r17 on and trimmed a bit of plastic up front and re-aligned fendor liners and was all set. Rides awesome and the new rubber is nice.

 

Go with the better shock

 

"Eibach lift springs on factory coils"? Explain what you mean, please. Do you mean Eibach coils using factory struts?

 

I would not recommend putting aftermarket coil springs on a stock shock. If you need an explanation as to why, call the shock manufacturer and they will give you plenty of reasons why.

 

Yes I put an Eibach lift spring on my factory shock which is brand new from Toyota. It's an Eibach 620lb. spring and I got 1.5"s of lift in the front from it. Stock suspension has zero value in terms of resale so I might as well use the shocks for a while. The 4r will get a full lift down the line.

 

I have been the Toyota aftermarket world for over 10yrs now and have seen/experienced quite a bit. I also have unique relationships with suspension companies and we talked through this before I put the springs on the factory shock. There is nothing wrong with doing this. My reasons are simple. The resale value of the stock suspension is zero. So why waste a brand new suspension that will last for at least the first 2 to 5 yrs on this 4r. All I needed was to level up the front. Adding an Eibach 620lb. (light duty lift spring) is a far superior way to level the truck over any spacer lift on top of the strut or inside the strut. Remember I am only looking to level the front so I could fit my 275/70 R17 tires. Down the line when the time is right, this 4r will get a full suspension lift front and rear.

A full 3" spring only kit can be purchased here. In this case I went with just the front springs.

http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/3-Lift-w-front-rear-coils-for-07FJ-and-104Runner_p_157.html

If the OP is in need of new shocks at this time, then yes it would be better to replace the front and rear shocks at this time. For long lasting option I would suggest this kit from Toytec:

http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/OME-Full-Suspension-System-For-2010-4Runners_p_891.html

 

I see you corrected your statement after I posted, so if someone doesn't closely read the quote I posted from you they might miss it and think I am an imbecile. Since I can't abide that, I want to make sure I point out that your post initially had you adding Eibach coils to the factory coils, making it sound like you were somehow doubling up coils. You meant Eibach coils and factory struts.

 

Yes I corrected my statement for clarity. I appreciate you pointing it out as I sometime get mixed up when typing. If others were to think you were an imbecile because they cannot read, then we have bigger problems in the world.

 

LOL the answer I was expecting is, "THAT'S not why people think you're an imbecile! "

 

No, THAT'S why people think you're an imbecile

 

In all reality, if you're only gonna upgrade one part of the coilover assembly, use an adjustable shock. Stock Shocks on a lift spring will effectively REMOVE travel. Although just swapping shocks won't necessarily ADD any, you're not screwing yourself over in the end either. Not to mention, there are plenty of springs you could throw on the 5100 after (with 0 issues) if you decide you want to do more.

 

I do agree with your thought process and the adjustable shock is the better way to go for those who plan to take their 4r off road. I merely suggested the new coil spring as a cost effective solution that is much better then a spacer lift since the OP also mentioned that he does ZERO off road and did not want to sacrifice his ride quality. The loss of travel is minimal and is more affected by the sway bar (non-KDSS) then anything. The suspension with a 1.5" light duty lift coil spring still operates within the usable shock travel.

 

Most of the posts and research said that the 6112/5160 kit is much more kushy than the 5100. The coil is softer because the shock valve construction is larger and a bit different. Hence the cost. The 5100 use a harder spring to compensate because the shock is not able to absorb as much as it could like the 6112 does

 

I did the 6112’s and 5160’s on my Tundra and love it. I had Wheeler’s install the spring ahead of time on my struts. My 15-year old and I did the front and rear in a day. I just bought a new ‘18 4R this month and he gets to drive the Tundra next spring. I will add UCA’s before he gets it though.

 

I’m not sure if I will do this to the 4R next year when I do tires or not. I’m still debating the Toytec and Icon systems but I’ve got a year to save up and decide.

 

So you feel like UCA are needed for handling or just want piece of mind With the added strength?

 

When the shop did the front end alignment they said it was within spec but could be better if I did the UCA's. We rotated the tires but there is still a slight angle to the tires when sitting (caster/camber?) it seems if you stand 20' back and look at it. My Tundra is an '06 with 173,000 miles on it. I did the lower control arms and ball joints on both sides almost a year ago. That connection joint (stock uniball?) looks to be at a good angle now so I can just imagine it going at some point. I think the control arm itself is sturdy enough for my 2" lift, just not that connection. I'm not driving it that much now that I have the 4R so as soon as I save up the $$$ I'll do it. Last thing I want is my son driving it and something go on it. I have some time though, ha ha....he turns 16 next March and then can't drive alone for 6 months. We actually took it out this weekend to dump some stuff off at the recycling center and I was like "Damn, I love this suspension!" It only took me 12 years to do it and then I buy a new truck......I won't wait as long for the 4R. My lower control arms and bushings were worn on the Tundra and I went up 2 sizes on the KO2's I believe with no issues. Once I got new lower control arms the tires started rubbing until I put on the Bilstein's.