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First DIY Oil Change & Tire Rotation

Discussion in '5th Gen 4Runners (2010-2024)' started by Lou, Jun 16, 2023.

  1. Jun 20, 2023 at 10:44 AM
    #31
    Lou

    Lou [OP] New Member

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  2. Jun 20, 2023 at 11:55 AM
    #32
    backpacker

    backpacker New Member

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    RSG sliders, Falken Wildpeak 265/70R/17 E
    It looks like you're well equipped to upsell your wife on a cabin air filter.
     
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  3. Jun 20, 2023 at 12:28 PM
    #33
    icestud

    icestud Mile High Member

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    That's pretty cool, looks like it was added? how deep is it?
     
  4. Jun 20, 2023 at 1:51 PM
    #34
    Lou

    Lou [OP] New Member

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    I think it's a little over 5 feet tall. There's plenty of headroom with the 4Runner. I have to be more aware with our Camry.

    It was installed in a day by one installation guy from flatsafe.com
     
  5. Jun 20, 2023 at 1:53 PM
    #35
    Lou

    Lou [OP] New Member

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    Those wiper blades are looking a little worn. :)
     
  6. Jun 20, 2023 at 2:00 PM
    #36
    2016Pro

    2016Pro Why all of the Pro hate?

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    Lol, just don't do all this
     
  7. Jun 21, 2023 at 6:12 AM
    #37
    Redwood

    Redwood New Member

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    Oh really. So what's wrong about using quality parts and oils and following the "Severe Service" maintenance schedule when your driving conditions warrant. Of which most of us qualify for. Which states every 5000 or 6 months. Tell me why I shouldn't do this.
     
  8. Jun 21, 2023 at 9:16 AM
    #38
    Lou

    Lou [OP] New Member

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    One more question...

    Once the tires were rotated was I supposed to do something to change the TPMS or does it relearn which one is which automatically?
     
  9. Jun 21, 2023 at 11:14 AM
    #39
    Captain Spalding

    Captain Spalding . . .

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    I’ve heard and repeated that most of us qualify for the severe service schedule, but after actually reading the Warranty and Maintenance guide I’m not so sure.

    EFB10160-2A1F-4840-AEBC-71DC3D2F00B1.jpg

    The special conditions are:
    • Driving on dirt roads or dusty roads
    • Driving while towing, using a car top carrier, or heavy vehicle loading
    • Repeated trips of less than 5 miles in temperatures below freezing
    • Extensive idling and/or low speed driving for a long distance such as police, taxi or door-to-door delivery use
    I don’t think that most of us do a majority of our driving under these circumstances.
    It relearns!
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2023
  10. Jun 22, 2023 at 1:28 PM
    #40
    Ripper238

    Ripper238 New Member

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    Yeah, i always go for the highest quality parts and Oil, leaves more room/flexibility. I would hate to have non synthetic oil and be stuck in a position where I had to do 8k++ on it.

    They do say 10,000 miles, and 5000 severe service schedule, so doing 5k will cost more. So somewhere in-between is just fine. I have had way too many vehicles I've gone every 7-8000 miles before clanging the oil and not 1 engine issue with total milage on vehicle of 300k+.
     
  11. Jun 22, 2023 at 1:38 PM
    #41
    2016Pro

    2016Pro Why all of the Pro hate?

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    Brand doesn't matter
     
  12. Jun 22, 2023 at 1:49 PM
    #42
    Ripper238

    Ripper238 New Member

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    But the quality does, and usually a known brand will provide better quality.
     
  13. Jun 22, 2023 at 1:58 PM
    #43
    Lou

    Lou [OP] New Member

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    Attached Files:

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  14. Jun 22, 2023 at 4:46 PM
    #44
    Redwood

    Redwood New Member

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    Maybe so. But oil changes are cheap and engines are expensive so why risk it. I don't want my oil control rings seized in the piston lands by carbon causing localized cylinder bore wear. I purchased my '22 ORP fully intending it on lasting a very long time.
     
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  15. Jun 23, 2023 at 12:05 PM
    #45
    2016Pro

    2016Pro Why all of the Pro hate?

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    Incorrect, just marketing, oil is oil, won't make a bit of difference what brand you buy
     
  16. Jun 23, 2023 at 12:12 PM
    #46
    Ripper238

    Ripper238 New Member

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    Hahaha

    Good luck with that.

    Ill stick with my top tier "synthetic" oil.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2023
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  17. Jun 23, 2023 at 1:02 PM
    #47
    Captain Spalding

    Captain Spalding . . .

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    Oil changes are cheap and engines are expensive so why not change the oil every 3000 miles? My friend your argument is based on emotion, not reason.
     
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  18. Jun 23, 2023 at 2:34 PM
    #48
    Redwood

    Redwood New Member

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    No emotion here on my end. Just a lifetime of experience as a certified auto tech. Retired now don't drive as much with lots of short trip driving in temperature extremes which means "severe service" maintenance schedule. Mileage is irrelevant to me it's time that matters 5000 or 3000 miles doesn't matter. My '22 ORP has about 4500 miles on it in 2 years and it's had 3 oil changes. If people want to call that OCD and unnecessary that's fine. But people seem to key in on mileage instead of the time factor which is just as important.
     
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  19. Jun 23, 2023 at 2:39 PM
    #49
    2016Pro

    2016Pro Why all of the Pro hate?

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    Lol ok pal, my Tacoma with the cheap synthetic oil just turned 220k
     
  20. Jun 23, 2023 at 2:39 PM
    #50
    2016Pro

    2016Pro Why all of the Pro hate?

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    Change your oil every 100 miles, it's cheap insurance.

    I change mine every 10k, maybe 12.5k, that wouldn't be prudent. I only have 300k miles in them, they will probably have engine failure soon.
     
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  21. Jun 23, 2023 at 2:51 PM
    #51
    Ripper238

    Ripper238 New Member

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    Why would you use synthetic if oil is just oil? :D
     
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  22. Jun 23, 2023 at 2:56 PM
    #52
    Redwood

    Redwood New Member

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    Dude what's your problem. Quality parts and oils do matter. Replace them according to the appropriate maintenance schedule that applies to you. That's it.
     
  23. Jun 23, 2023 at 3:10 PM
    #53
    Captain Spalding

    Captain Spalding . . .

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    I guess the thinking is that when the Toyota owners manual says to use Toyota branded oil or equivalent, and in the next sentence specifies the grade (ILSAC GF-6A) it leads one to assume that Toyota considers any oil that meets that certification as equivalent.
     
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  24. Jun 23, 2023 at 4:12 PM
    #54
    Redwood

    Redwood New Member

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    Correct. If you do your own maintenance though instead of a dealer doing it for you. Cover all the bases save your receipts use equivalent ILSAC GF-6A and OEM filters and no powertrain warranty issues. I don't expect any powertrain issues but the the recent change to ISLAC GF-6A is an upgrade for turbo applications which Toyota seems to have applied to non turbo engines.
     
  25. Jun 23, 2023 at 4:29 PM
    #55
    glwood54

    glwood54 Stop making me buy stuff!

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  26. Jun 23, 2023 at 6:11 PM
    #56
    2016Pro

    2016Pro Why all of the Pro hate?

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    Lol save your receipts!!!!! Yes yes
     
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  27. Jun 23, 2023 at 7:09 PM
    #57
    rmiked

    rmiked New Member

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    The Toyota synthetic 0-20 oil meets API SP. I’m reading it’s the latest category for gasoline engines. I assume that’s the equivalent of ILSAC GF-6?
     
  28. Jun 24, 2023 at 4:07 PM
    #58
    Austin26

    Austin26 New Member

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    It's all pretty basic except for some reason the dip stick needs to rest for like 10 minutes for some reason before you can get an accurate reading. Fords, Nissans, and most others I've changed have needed no time at all. But I felt dumb when changing my 4R's oil the first time!

    Don't overtighten the plastic filter cap. And install the O ring in the bare metal slot where it goes, not in the threads.

    I second this. I love it and have one on my wife's car too.
     
  29. Jul 9, 2023 at 7:38 AM
    #59
    jharkin

    jharkin New Member

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    Timely thread… I just did the first service on my ‘23 at 5000 miles. Oil and filter, rotation and driveline grease.

    I previously had a gen2 taco so very similar. I just dove in and figured it out. Honestly there really is nothing to be afraid of if you have any previous car mechanic experience.

    Thoughts:
    -Dropping the TRD skid was not as bad as it’s made out to be. I put the floor jack under to hold it while I removed the bolts, then reveresed for reinstall. I put some anti sieze on the 14mm bolts and hand threaded them to start and everything tightened up without issue.

    - the oil filter housing is funky but I sprung for the Motivx tool kit iwith the drain hose and that made it simple as cake. I swapped in the OEM metal housing just in case.

    - Greasing the driveline zirks (5) actually seemed easier than the Tacoma. On the Taco the front shaft fittings are hard to get at without removing a bunch of shields, I was able to work around the shields on the 4R.
     
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  30. Jul 9, 2023 at 9:03 AM
    #60
    Ripper238

    Ripper238 New Member

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    Yeah, that's not that bad I guess. But I like giving my keys to the Toyota mechanic and 20min later he gives them back and I am done, plus I get a list of items to keep an eye on for future service by a real mechanic. lol
     

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