Diff and Transfer Case fluid recommendations

It’s time to change the fluid in the diffs and transfer case on my 2021 TRD OR and I’m looking for fluid recommendations so I can avoid the dealer prices.

I would appreciate a recommendation for a top quality fluid…

Cheers,
Bob

 

Any off the shelf 70/90 gear oil.

 

These squeeze bags really help make the job easier.

 

Genuine Toyota Fluid

 

This guy uses Valvoline, but it really does not matter what brand.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0URaztDXHco&t=135s

 

I like Redline. Use name brand synthetic. No need for dealer liquid gold.

 

Dumb question but I go ahead and ask it….

Are you gents using the same lube in the transfer case as in the diffs?

Cheers,
Bob

 

Yes.

 

Another vote for the Valvoline Synthetic. Just did both diff's last weekend since the 4runner is new to us.
I spent about $15 making this system out of a sprayer I got at home depot (or similar) and a valve stem from the car-parts place. Added a length of tube with a valve. Fill it with the correct amount, pressurize it with a handheld inflator, open the valve and watch the magic happen. No more messes or anything. Have done it for all of the diffs, transfer cases, transmission fluid, etc.

This is just on my truck, didn't snap a photo of doing it on the Runner:

 

No. I used this on the TC
Red Line 50104 75W85 GL-5

Valvoline bags mentioned above in front and rear dif.

 

Most recent change on mine I used the valvoline squeeze bags 75w90 in diffs and royal purple synchromax in TC

 

Bob it doesn't matter what brand you use, just get the proper viscosity

 

I've run Mobil1 and Valvoline 75W-90 over the years with no issues. I would however recommend changing the rear differential fluid at about 10K. Not sure so much about the 4runner or Tacoma but my FJ fluid was totally black at 10K. I changed my rear diff fluid on my 4runner when I bought it with 23K. One of the 1st things I did to it. And like always loosen your fill plug 1st.

 

Black doesn't mean anything either

 

KrashDH, is that a drill in the picture? What is the hand held inflator? I would like to replicate your setup to avoid spills and mess. It would simplify filling each volume (diffs and TC) if using same GL-5 in all 3 and just fill until level with fill plug. Trying to pump individual quart bottles with positive displacement hand pump is too messy. The suction tube needs to be held in the bottom of bottles and you need 3 hands or you knock the fill bottle over while using 2 hands on the pump. I’m done with that method.

 

The "drill" in the picture is the hand held inflator. I have onboard air in my truck, but I keep one of these in my car in case I have to plug a flat on the road:

$66 AstroAI Cordless Tire Inflator Air Compressor 20V Rechargeable Battery Powered 160PSI Portable Handheld Air Pump with 12V Car Power Adapter Digital Pressure Gauge for Cars Motorcycles Blue

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0948WYSHD?ie=UTF8&th=1



If you want more detail on how to make it, I took a link I found and did it a DIY writeup for another forum I'm apart of. You shouldn't have to be a member to see the thread with images:

https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/diy-gear-oil-dispenser.2527577/

 

Everyone,

Wanted to say thanks for the input. Based on what O'Reilly had in the store, I ended up with Royal Purple for the transfer case and Redline for the diffs.

Cheers, Bob

 

solid choices

 

krashDH, I really like the pump you put together but curious if you could use the pump on the sprayer to pressurize it vs using the handheld? Thoughts??

Cheers,
Bob

 

I like this. I have use hand pump that attaches to bottles-a bit messy, leaks, takes a lot of pumps. I tried a large 500ml syringe. This is ok for transfer case or small amounts-1-1.5qts. The syringe still drips here and there. Your method looks much easier.

 

Yeah you can, but I wanted to be able to monitor the pressure so I didn't explode the container, they're not meant to hold a lot of pressure. Plus, the whole idea with this design was to make it easy on myself. If I wanted to keep pumping, I would just use regular quart bottles and screw a manual pump onto them and attach a hose the old school way But I got sick and tired of that, especially with the Cummins...I was exhausted after pumping quart by quart for the diffs, transfer case, and transmission.
This method takes maybe 15 seconds to get to pressure then just flip the valve open.

I use the same method for bleeding brakes since most of the time I do it solo. My rigs all take different brake fluid so instead of putting fluid in the container, I basically use it as a pressure vessel. I have extra caps for the rigs that have adapters I drilled and tapped for. I swap the cap on the brake reservoir for the one with the adapter for my container attachment, pressurize the container, then crack the bleeder till she runs with clean fluid. Re-fill the reservoir, and repeat for all 4 corners. No second person required. Again, I like the inflator gun because I can monitor the pressure so you don't blow any seals in the braking system. I try to keep that under 15 psi.

Although it was nice last weekend being able to bleed the system on all 4 corners with the ABS pump, but you still need a helping hand so someone can push the pedal to activate the pump

 

Yeah this is exactly what I wanted to get away from. Plus it always a PITA to try to keep a bottle in place, not tip or slip, etc.

 

Exactly. The bottle is either slipping, nozle coming out of the fill port, tube popping off the pump handle, etc. I had the hose pop off and got a good dose of transfer fluid to the face. TC fluid is one of the stinkiest fluids there is. Almost impossible to get the stink out of clothes or rags.

 

Watch this before putting whatever oil and screwing up the transfer case.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3le9ZT5HUlk

 

If you want top quality, but not OEM fluid, go with Amsoil Severe Gear 75/90 in the squeeze packs for the front and rear diffs. Redline MT-LV for the transfer case.

 

And he says any 75/90 in the case and any GL5 75/90 in the diffs. No specific brands you need to use.

 

Yep. But if you are scared and want the extra 0.00000001mpg, use Toyota liquid gold.

 

Lol, I see the amsoil koolaid is strong here too. Seriously...changing the fluids on a regular interval is much more important than the brand. There's only so many factories that pump out oils, then sell them to these companies. They then slap a sticker on them, use some fancy buzzword lingo, and mark it up at an insane amount. Change regularly, meet the spec requirements, and go out and play

 

But papa toyota says to use papa toyota fluid only...is my age showing?

 

I mean we all drank the Toyota koolaid so there's that. Amsoil makes good products and I get a discount for being a preferred customer.