What is critical for paint protection initially?

I finally pulled the trigger on the new 4 runner..still feel a little shocked I did it. Not sure if anyone else went through immediate buyers remorse?

Having said that..what should be my initial investment (another) for protecting it? Toyota dealer said he put a clear bra on his and did ceramic coating. Where is the best place to do the clear bra? Toyota or somewhere else? Ceramic coating? Are there any store bought protectants that are worthy or completely inferior and not helpful? I see some people talking about PPF but I definitely dont have a ton of money to invest at moment but want to get thoughts on what I absolutely should do right now initially and then maybe I can do more in 6 months..

 

On the buyer’s remorse question, I have a hard time believing how much they cost. The supply chain issues have made all cars more expensive. But 4 Runners hold their value so well as well as Tacomas

 

I have always, at the bare minimum, PPF'd the high impact surfaces (first foot of the hood, just above the windshield, rocker panels), and the spots I know I damage over time with regular use (behind door handles, lower section on tailgate, kick plates). That should get all the high impact stuff done with. And I always clean, prep, and undercoat when new.

On my current Runner I went all out, but I find I tend to keep my new vehicles for at least 7 years, and I want to keep this one for 20, so worthwhile initial investment for a guy that would rather pull wrenches then weld body panels.

Since its all nice and shiny underneath, I would spend some money coating the bottom as well.

On a budget, just pick one or the other; usually best to hit the underside while its clean, but if you live in an area where rust isn't an issue, but bugs and stones are, maybe the PPF first.

The cost (in my area, at least) is similar to do a dry ice blast and seal on the bottom, or a PPF package; about $700 or so. Not cheap, but worth the investment.

If you are a 5 year owner, and then sell to upgrade, you may not need to go all out. Want to keep her for 10 years or more, consider that money an investment in longevity.

 

This is what I was talking about in my last post, and the product I had installed.

These trucks are stone magnets.

 

Thanks for all of that. I would keep for a very long time. I will look at PPF packages and the clear bra link. What do you like for prep and undercoat?

 

That question in a car forum is almost like asking what oil filter to use...chances are you'll get strong opinions for and against all sorts of stuff.

I went the scorched earth direction and did complete pressure wash on a hoist, full dry out, dry ice blasting, coating touch-ups, and then a full coating of a product called Honeyseal. That is my preferred method, but that's just me and my experience with vehicles and industrial equipment.

The truth is, if you clean it well, and then apply pretty much any of the options people will give you (I think POR is one, and there's the fluid film crowd, krown coating stuff, etc.) you will be miles ahead of doing nothing. Some of those are even relatively inexpensive to do yourself, and with yearly touch ups will likely serve well.

I shy away from the harder coating that are almost like an impenetrable layer...not because they don't work, but because for them to be truly effective the surface preparation required is quite involved (otherwise you just trap contaminants in a barrier) and regular maintenance is very important (because failures in the coating will allow contaminants in)

 

I found the link where I posted pics of mine.

https://www.4runners.com/threads/brand-new-4runner-rust.29388/#post-442083

 

Thank you.. When you say POR..?

 

Some one else will have to chime in on this. I just remember seeing that come up in threads regarding rust...so it may be a converter, or a paint type product, but I thought it was a coating.

 

https://por15.com/

 

Welcome to the forum.

The cost for PPF and ceramic coating really depends on where you live, as the labor is what causes the high costs. To do the full front end, mirror backs, door cups, door edges, a pillar, and leading roof edge, you’ll be about $1600-$2200. This cost will vary based on your area and the installer. Definitely don’t use the dealer. They will farm it out to the cheapest place and mark it up.

The most critical thing to look for with PPF is the installer and not necessarily the brand. A good installer can make anything look great. A bad installer can make the best PPF look like garbage. If you do anything, get as much PPF on the high impact areas that you can. You can do a ceramic coating, tint, and mods at a later date. Keep in mind that PPF is not cheap and will need to be replaced in about 10 years as well as if it ever gets damaged.

Personally, I would go with Suntek Reaction or Stek Dynoshield. Both films are smooth, come with an hydrophobic coating, and have minimal orange peel effect in the film.

Xpel makes a nice durable film but it has a grab feel, not really hydrophobic, and an orange peel texture.

I just had my PPF done and you can see the pictures in my New Member thread and Solar Octane thread. I’m OCD, so I did a full paint correction before dropping it off for PPF. My installer also did a small portion of the C pillars which loves to get rock chips on these 4Runners.

I can go on and on but as another member said, this is like an oil change thread, everyone will have a different view and opinion. PPF is a personal choice for me and I will never have a new car without it.

 

Very helpful thank you!

 

When I first heard of rust preventative coatings I was confused. Re-apply every year? Why? The answer is that theses coatings are thick and waxy and don’t adhere like paint. But they do the job.

When I hear the word undercoating what I think of is a sprayed on rubber coating that can only be removed with a torch.

 

Amen. If you want to avoid paint problems, don't buy a Toyota

All four I've owned had terrible, terrible paint. My '98 Durango with 280K miles on it has zero wrong with the paint, other than just being old. No clear coat turning white and peeling off, no chunks of paint flaking off, and almost no rock chips. Not sure what Dodge used for paint in the '90's but it's like steel.