Sanity check for build

I really appreciate that but looks like they don't have DSP for timing, or do they? I was pretty set on the JL Audio for the DSP built in, and then additionally one for the sub.

 

so, the said 300 dollar pioneer double din will.

no need for a dedicated dsp imo unless you plan to go way bigger in the future or really delve in to microphone based tuning.

you don’t need (but should when possible) to time tweeters, the nature of beaming and reflections makes that insignificant. Skipping the timing of mids… that’s bad. the compensation would be that the woofers in the door get crossed higher, making the mids carry 2k and up like a tweeter. Not perfect, but it’ll work.

can you define your setup? If you make a hard decision about 2way/3way/fill we can build around the application.

 

Hard to really define right now as it's stock. every time i do a road trip I swear I'll upgrade the stereo and we just got back from a road trip.

I like the Alpine Halo 9.

I like the JL Audio Stealth box. You have a great idea about subs fitting in the hatch, but I've already scratched my hatch up throwing camping gear and other stuff in the back.

Everything needs to fit under the seats. I need the back open for camping gear. Which is why I like the JL Audio amps with built in DSP and small form factor. And not needing to deal with cross overs since they have the DSP.

No real budget.

After that I'm really open to anything. I may just go to an installer to have it done especially if they can do a clean mounting job for some tweeters, or maybe go to an installer to get the timing / tuning right. Kinda like the idea of doing it myself since everything else on the 4runner I've done.

I've done installs a long time ago but that was all coaxial speakers and nothing fancy, just HU, amp, sub box.

 

You can time align with the JL DSP.

 

ok OP, this helps.

I feel alpine is not a top player, I have had issues with their head units in the past getting dirty quickly (even the 149-bt, total disappointment). I am not discouraging you, I just share my experiences. I would just highly recommend maestro integration… it unlocks so many cool Easter eggs.

the vxi series is a solid heavy hitter, the 800/8 will give you everything (literally). You can tune the sub from the HU if needed.

I would encourage you to really put the time in to learn your car, the software, tuning to a curve, and playing around with the system overall. If willing, why not go with a proper twk88? It allows you so much freedom for expansion/changes/additions using a standalone dsp. Just posing the question.

in the end, properly tuning your system and focusing your efforts where it counts is going to pay dividends. Maybe share with the group your digestion of all this in a couple days, what speakers you like and what brings you joy in terms of signal path.

remember folks, sharing your progress helps others and really creates a knowledge base to support the cars for years to come. Saab, vw, and many others have a deep community of DIY enthusiasts and infinite documentation… no reason we can’t too.

 

Decided to do the build in phases because I'm not 100% decided on head unit or amps. Bought speakers only for now for dash, front doors, rear door. Rear hatch going to leave stock and probably not use at all eventually. Audiofrog GS25, GS62 and GS690 arrived today.

Got the dash speakers in. I'm assuming that without a DSP or cross overs you want to use the stock capacitor so wired it in with that and the stock plug otherwise it would be duplicating sound from the front woofers - I think. Please anyone jump in if I'm mistaken.

Took off the front door panel....and realized i needed to buy speaker adapters from taco tunes so got those ordered for front and back. Had a hell of a time getting the door panel back on. Saw a post saying when you remove the door panel to leave the sill on and pop the panel off the window sill thing. If i can find that again I'll post here because putting that thing back on sucked.

EDIT: here it is Gotta say with only the GS25 dash speakers in, those highs and vocals are much better. Vocal heavy portions of songs sound great. if I did this correctly, you cut off the mounting tabs except for the T/GM tabs and can use the stock mount.

Other interesting thing: I couldn't get the bolts removed from the stock speakers to the mounting brackets until I put them in a vice. Most difficult, smallest bolts I've ever worked on.

 

Sounds like everything was textbook, congrats on the results.

its always cool to get to do it incrementally appreciating each compliment and improvement.

subscribed.

 

Is your OEM system JBL or non-JBL? I want to replace by speakers in the JBL powered system but not sure if the results will be noticable as the JBL are 3 ohm speakers.

 

Non-JBL

 

Got a little side tracked on a 2nd gen Tacoma. We'd previously put in JL Audio Coax speakers and Sony head unit and finally got around to installing an amp. Spacers on the rear of the passenger seat to fit the amp and got a good coat of dynamat.

Velcro held the amp in really well. We put some double sided mounting tape on the bottom to help make an even surface for more velcro contact.

Then dropped my son off at the Metallica concert. He wouldn't let me go with him, he was too embarrassed to have dad around.

 

Did the 4runner doors. Question - i drilled into the side of the plastic taco tunes speaker mount to run wires. Is this a good way to do it?

 

And then I probably wont have an update for a while. Been spending the 4runner stereo money and my extra time on this thing...

 

yup, side drill for the win.

 

Thanks dude

 

One question:

you ever tried using the deadening in place of the vapor barrier (or in some cases roll it over then re install)?

curious if you skipped reinforcing plastic for weight or access reasons. this is what I was taught, but I know there’s more than one way to skin a cat.

it’s looking real good, the detail is very thought out.

 

No I didn't know this was an option. I opened the plastic and then put a lot on the inside of the door, on both interior and exterior metal. Putting the plastic back as neatly as I could.

Is there a good deadening to use in place of the plastic? Any good examples?

I put a lot of dynamat on the back side of the door plastic - is that would you mean?

 

If you look at the driver door, the deadening is used right over to seal it all up.

 

I like that. Looks like I will be doing that. What type/brand of deadening is that?

 

ballistic but it’s mostly all the same, any reputable brand should have a good product.

 

Ok so.....here's what I'm thinking and would appreciate any input whatsoever.

Currently have Audiofrog GS25, GS62 and GS690 - this will be powered by a JL Audio VX600/6i

Going to disconnect the rear speakers and I think will have to re-wire the passenger rear speakers since i think they come factors wires in parallel or something with the hatch speakers

Sub will be the JL Audio Stealth box powered by a JL Audio VX600/1i

HU will be the T10 V3.1 - i just like the clean fit and finish and the various apps seem cool. I wish there was a volume knob I could mount somewhere for this for quick volume change.

Those are both 600 watt amps although the JL audio sub box comes with a 10TW3-D4 10" rated at 400 watts RMS. I'm assuming the VX600/1i can be configured to have a max power output.


I'm also looking to upgrade the rear AC inverter to a 600 watt Victron 800VA.

That said I'm thinking to run 2 gauge wire with a 200 amp fuse to a power block under the driver seat. from the power block to the two amps under the passenger seat and the Victron 800VA going to run 8 gauge with more fuses per line.

Anything to buy to make the T10 work with factory controls or anything?

 

T10 has steering wheel controls built in….had two different ones and not impressed one bit with the sound and both had mic problems. And the RCAs are limited to front and sub out. No rear channel RCAs….let alone a decent signal.

If it were me, I’d opt for a Excelon with all that nice gear.

 

The new Sony 9500ES or the Kenwood 1037 will truly justify your other equipment.
You will just have to get used to the floating display.

 

oh god, that's why I never did my audio build.........well out of all those what is the best?

 

Yeah I don't like the way any of the floating screens look. Won't the built in DSP make up for the bad audio on the t10?

And if the t10 does have rear out, then front back levels just can't be adjusted on the fly from the HU. Any other drawbacks? Seems like you could get good levels with the DSP.

 

Between those two, I think it's a matter of preference. You could also look at the 9 inch Alpine Halo 9. It fits a little better and would not intrude on the vents.
I have heard people are quite happy with the performance of their T10 and that even their stock speakers sounded better.
But I have no personal experience.
What I do know is, I would not be happy if I had to continuously tweak the HU to make it work flawlessly.

 

Just go join the CTH T10 Facebook page and search Mic problems, BAD RCAs, add an amp, poor sound quality, sub output not working etc. If anything I would just tap the speaker level leads, convert to RCAs and plug straight in to the VXi….nothing wrong with that and at least you have fader control from the head unit.

My last piece of advice…the T10 is a tinkering unit…add apps and play with it like an iPad. I have owned two and they are immensely frustrating even for tech savvy folks. Had to return due to hardware failures and dust under screen due to quality control issues. If going this route, you might also look at their newer T10v2.1…it is the latest unit and has the updated screen that supposedly fixes the dust problem and it still retains volume knobs like the OEM Entune 3.0 head unit.

Want a clean signal, CarPlay, nice sound, reliable unit….I go for Sony or Kenwood all day long…and for me, I’d do a 6.95” in dash with a Metra kit with Maestro and plug n play adapters. Probably $300 more than a T10 all said and done. Good luck.

 

I'm specifically looking at the T10 V3.1. Do you know is there's a spec sheet for that unit? the website is a little vague. I cant tell if there's a rear channel.

 

T10 V3.1 has same internals and connectivity as V2.1

One is knobless, other has volume/tune knobs and shortcut hard buttons.

join the Facebook group….tons of info and you will need this support when you have problems. Also, the site admin will send you a coupon code for 7%off. And be advised, if you have problems and need to return….it is ship to China on your dime…and that is expensive!

 

lol

this is a rough decision

 

since those amps have DSP's - would it be crazy to just keep the stock head unit for not while deciding what to do in that department?