PSA: TRD Pro tires don't fit on Limited

https://www.4runners.com/threads/265-70-17-at-on-a-stock-5th-gen.7101/

In this thread, and the general consensus is, 265/70r17 wheels are fine with whatever 4runner you have and won't rub...

However, I had the dealership install TRD Pro 17 inch wheels and 265/70r17 Michelin defender tires on my 2022 limited. The front driver's side rubs on the fender plastic when I reverse and cut the wheel.

I'm at a loss as to what to do and call upon your wisdom and sage advice.

Normally, I expect everyone to say to dust off the trusty heat gun and give her what fer. However, keep in mind this young lass on has 17,000 miles on her and has an extended warranty on account of the owner expecting the xreas system to fail prior to 120,000 miles.

Heat gun and forget about it?

Please don't say "spacers" or "lift" unless you have to.

 

I’ve had Trd pro wheels and 265/70/17s on my 22 limited since day one. No rubbing. All 4Runners seem to be a little different. Maybe try getting an alignment to push the wheels forward (positive caster).

 

I think I read that TRD Pros are shipped with generic wheels, and that the Pro wheels are put on at the US port. As part of that process technical service bulletin T-SB-0070-19 is performed. So, apparently, according to Toyota if you move the wheels outboard 0.4 inches a fender modification is necessary. Many have reported success doing this themselves, but you could ask the dealer to do it as it is a Toyota-approved procedure.

Here’s the TSB:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10162789-9999.pdf

 

Thank you

 

I truly believe the rubbing issue is so varied because of differences in alignment and castor. With that being said a change in offset seems to trigger this. My stock OR wheels had an offset of 15...I changed to an offset of 0. I had rubbing with stock tire size. Wheel was an inch wider as well. Those trd wheels have an offset of 4.... so brings the wheel out more.

The heat gun is for the mudflap. Sounds like you need to bring the fender liner forward a little bit in front of wheel. Easy to do.... vids on you tube. I have to do it on mine....500 miles on it. At first I was like no way, not on a new vehicle. But the more I thought about it I became comfortable with it. I was willing to accept it for a wheel I liked a lot more than stock.

 

Offset is related to wheel width so although the offset is different, the net result of going from TRD OR wheels to TRD Pro wheels only adds a couple of mm of poke - like 5 or 6. I geeked out and did the math when I made the switch but that was almost 2 years ago so I dont remember exactly how much it was.

 

That's EXACTLY what is rubbing and what has to happen. How much of a pain in butt is it to do? Would saying "pretty please" be enough incentive to get you to post a link to a video you recommend?

What would you do if you were me - here's the deal: I took it to the dealership initially for an unrelated service. While at the dealership they took it through the carwash without telling me and ripped off a ham radio antenna (also without telling me) and scratched the paint. I asked them if instead of fixing the paint they would pay for the wheels and they agreed. I paid $1500 for the tires and the wheels were 'free.'

I change my own oil because I'm uptight and it's my baby. Am I better off pushing the front fender plastic myself or having them do it?

 

https://youtu.be/69f_Z5QqZJM

Thank you to Nano909 for the solution I'm planning on using.

For anyone else who is wondering about putting 17 inch wheels on your limited along with 265 70 r17 tires this video is for you.

 

Hate to interrupt the thread, but a quick question for those in the know...

Would this mod work with stock tires, TRD Pro wheels, and 1.25" spacers, or will I still need the BMC?

 

Let me take some pics tomorrow of where on mine is rubbing. It's dark outside now. Like you, in reverse, full turn. The above videos I've seen before and thought they were good. However, vids usually show pushing the fender liner forward.... super easy..... but not actually cutting the fender. You might not have to.... maybe just the fender liner.

I'm the same as you.... not really trusting of the dealer. I'd rather do it myself. From my understanding they do this all the time at port for the pros.... but probably less at the dealer. I'd probably trust a body/collision technician to do it but it seems easy enough to do at home. I'll send those pics tomorrow.

 

Adding spacers will push your wheels out further and increase your scrub radius. This may make the problem worse.

 

It seems like (just thinking about it) the BMC would be less likely since the wheel is further from the mount, but I might need to trim the bumper and the inner well...

I haven't even taken delivery yet and I may have already purchased a mod that will prove difficult. I'm going to change my screen name to "slow-down-Dan".

 

Here's what I did to fit 285/70R17 with TRD Offroad wheels. May be it would help you with stock 265/70R17 size tires with TRD Pro wheels. See from time line 3:44. At 2:15 you can see how much fender liner is pushed. I did not cut the bumper so can see how much its pushed. See if that helps.
**Yes, at the time of this video I had a lift and now I have Ironman FCP lift. But with this mod we could clear 265/70R17 without lift.


https://youtu.be/BvV0GGCaVM4?t=130

 

With spacers, you are pushing the wheel further out, increasing the width of the arc it takes when turning.

 

Well69.... here's the pic of my rubbing. For reference stock size toyo at3, 8.5in wide method wheels 0mm offset. The blue arrow is where it rubs.... pic is driver's side. Rubs in same spot on passenger side. Doesn't rub mudflaps but very close. Very easy fix from what I've researched. The green arrow is showing the actual fender.... it does NOT rub here. Not sure if I'm going to trim that. I might knowing it could rub with wheel articulation when offroad but I mainly take on forest roads. So nothing to extreme.

The above vids I recommend for the liner part. As far as the actual fender I haven't found a solid video for that. Lots of talk but not really showing that particular part. If I'm going to trim that I was going to use my heat gun to soften, not melt, the plastic. Then with a small piece of trim wood for a straight edge use a utility knife with a fresh blade to cut. You may not need to do this if it's only rubbing the liner in that back corner. I would do myself but another option is to take it to a offroad/4x4 shop. They do this all the time with lifts and larger tires that people put on. Provided it's a good shop of course.

 

I have an 18 Limited and switched to the ORP wheels and they did rub a little on the drivers inside liner in reverse wheel cocked right. The ORP wheels are a 15 offset and 7.5” wide which differs from your TRD wheels but I literally spent 10 minutes with a heat gun and rubber mallet to push the liner in. I wouldn’t waste time bringing it to someone as this is too easy to do yourself.

 

The video I posted above is for Limited as OP has.

I have a separate video for TRD ORP with different fender than Limited. I cut the part you showed in green arrow.



https://youtu.be/LlWRa5bDdW8?t=90

 

Y'all are awesome.

Thank you so much for your replies.

I'm just avoiding turning the wheel while backing up until I get to it this weekend.

 

Did you mean to say that offset is not related to wheel width? Because offset is where the hub surface sits in relation to the center of the wheel. It does not matter how wide the wheel is.

So, if the limited wheels have +15mm offset (that's the only spec I saw with a Google search), and the PRO wheels are +4mm, that pushes the wheels and tires out 11mm.

Also, not that it matters, the PRO wheels are 7" wide, just like the Limited wheels.

 

Although your definition is correct, that is not what I mean. What I mean is that when wheel width changes, the same offset will position the wheel in or out differently. So you can't just say "this wheel has less or more offset than that one and therefore it will stick further out". Unless of course, they are the same width.

For example, if you take a 7 or 8 inch wheel, both with 0 offset, the 8 inch wheel will stick out 1/2" more than the 7" wheel even though they have the same offset.

Agree this doesn't matter if both wheels are 7" wide but the TRD OR wheels are 7.5" wide so you have to do the math.

So yes, if both limited and trd pro wheels are 7", then the trd pros will stick out 11mm more, increasing overall track width by just under an inch.

 

Okay let’s break this down. 7 and 8 inch wheels with 0 offset: the 8 inch rim will protrude further inboard by ½ inch and also outboard by ½ inch compared to the 7 inch rim. But a 265/70r17 tire will be 10½ inches wide regardless of the rim width. So that tire will be positioned in the same place in the wheel well on either wheel.

Therefore:
The outer edge of a 265mm-wide tire on a 7 inch wide rim with a +4mm offset will protrude outboard 11mm (0.43”) more than a 265mm-wide tire on a 7½ inch wide rim with a +15mm offset. The difference in the width of the rim doesn’t contribute to the shift of the tire inboard or outboard.

The type of math you are doing only applies when you’re dealing with backspace, not offset.

 

Good to know, sounds like a heat gun and a rubber mallet may solve the equation.

 

Touche. You are correct.

I was looking at the Edge of the rim position. You are looking at the tire position. Tire position is a better measure, especially for this thread.

 

It’s also important to acknowledge that even though the tread width is set, the rim width does a play a roll in how “ballooned” the sidewall will sit. If you notice on tire specs they typically tell you the size of the wheel the tire was mounted to for official measurements because the wheel width will skew it the measurements slightly. It’s not much, but we are already discussing millimeters here.

 

What size tires are you running with this setup? I will be switching to OR wheels soon.

 

265 70 r17
The same tire size that comes standard on the TRD Pro trim. Nothing fancy here.
I can't say I think it's worth the money, but very little I've done to my 4runner is worth the money. For example, I have zero regrets about the thousands of dollars that went in to my always on fridge, but it's definitely not worth the money. On another thread I advised a guy to just get a portable battery and be done with it - don't install things like I did.

For the 17 inch wheels, I like having more sidewall. I was parking yesterday and the curb was merely a suggestion rather than an obstacle. Also, the capability and piece of mind is worth having to me, but I acknowledge that I'm nuts and glad I'm in good company on this forum.

 

I got the Falken Wildpeak AT in oem size 265/70/17.

 

I put TRD Pro rims and tires on my 2019 Limited. They don't rub and seem fine, but I keep getting the Tire pressure warning light. It goes away sometime and then comes back on. What should I do about it? I check the tires and they are 32 psi when cold.

 

I was running 32 through winter and recently upped it to 34 in spring hoping to get a little better mpg but never had an issue with the tpms lights going on at 32. Your 2019 isn’t any different than the 18 regarding that topic. I’m surprised 32 set em off. Maybe recheck them with a quality gauge to verify you have 32 cold.

 

Check your spare.