Will it STILL rub?

Here's the situation: 2021 Venture with stock suspension. Put on SpiderTrax wheel spacers when I upgraded OEM Duelers to stock size 265/70/17 Falken Wildpeaks at 30k miles. Rubbed. Removed mud flaps, pushed fender liners forward, trimmed lower part of fenders to eliminate rub. Fenders clear, but there's a slight body mount rub on passenger side at full-lock reverse. Occasional in forward going over driveway curb at a tight turn. really like the stance with the spacers on, so I want to keep them. I'm thinking Cornfed leveling might provide just enough space to prevent rub? A little more than level (keeping in mind stock tire size)? I

Best guesses?

Anyone set up like this with luck?

Pictures don't really show it well.

 

^The spacers are the culprit, causing your tire to swing on a 1.25" wider arc when you steer. Either delete the spacers or keep cutting and do a cab mount chop. 30k miles and 2 year old truck, not a virgin

 

I myself would remove the spacers. The TRD wheels are already at a +4 offset.

 

Ya we fighting a rub with new wheels 8.5 wide with zero offset. No spacers
Haven't pin pointed where yet. Haven't really tried to hard

 

What's your caster set at?

 

Also, how big is the spacer?

 

I have those same wheels, spacers, and 265/70 tires (my tires are Cooper Rugged Trek) on my 2023 OR with front Bilstein 5100's set at 1.75" and achieving around 2" actual lift.

I do not have any rubbing now, although I did have a lot at first. I did not need a body mount chop, although I did a fair amount of front fender trimming with a utility knife after pushing the wheel well liners forward. I also kept the mud flaps and did a mod that I think I invented where I used zip ties and one black washer per mud flap to pull the mud flap snug against the body mount.

I think adding lift would help you, although some might say it doesn't. Also, after the lift, try to get more positive caster on your alignment specs to move the wheels forward away from the body mounts.

 

Has anyone with a stock ORP installed 275/70/17 tires and got NO rubbing? I will have NO spacers and using stock ORP wheels. This size is 10mm wider and at a 70 (stock) aspect ratio, the tire is 0.55” taller (32.16” vs 32.61”). I’m gonna be replacing the Dueler HTs with Goodyear Duratracs. Thanks

 

That's heresy calling it a "cab mount chop"! It's only called that on a Taco. On a 4Runner it's a "BMC".

 

lol. Remove the spacers or get trd off road wheels and that will solve your issue

 

275's on the stock snowflake wheels. I had to do the fender tuck. According to Trail4runner.com, the offset is +15.

 

I have a local friend with a Limited on TRD Pro rims with 275/70s and fits no issues even with the flexing his truck can do. Although he hates his street ride as his tires only came in E load, so less enjoyable due to firmness.

 

1.25. I would have gone a bit less, but that’s the only option for SpiderTrax.

 

The Venture comes with the TRD OR wheels. I think they’re the exact ones the ORP comes with.

 

Thanks for all the advice. I’ll explore bit more of a lift, but don’t want it to look bad with the stock size tires I just put on it. Might just remove the spacers if I end up getting it off road much. Not a lot of OR options in the area.

 

Those wheels you have are the Pro wheels. Offset is +4 where the OR wheels are +15. They stick out 0.43" further than the OR wheels on their own. With that spacer, 1.68" further. Thus being the cause of the rub as long as there is no issues with other components.

 

Thanks for the info on the specs — and the math!

 

That's right, and to my eyes, that extra 1.68" of poke out the sides looks absolutely awesome. Well worth it in my opinion in exchange for some minor work trimming the fenders, pushing the liners, and nudging back the mud flaps.

 

Agree, but I draw the line at the body mount chop. Thus my hope that a leveling kit would fix the issue. When I get around to doing that, I'll report back!

 

My '23 OR didn't need the BMC...hoping your rig will not need it either. Good luck!!

 

I have the same spacers, but 285's and suspension lift nearly 3". I said the same thing when I bought new, I draw the line at BMC... Then I got the BMC done last month $300 CAD cash cut, weld, paint. It's nothing to be intimidated about if you find a decent welder. Leave the spacers on that's why you bought them, especially if you locktited them like me!

 

Hey question for you, I read on Bilstein website you "must" set the 5100's ring at the same position as stock sits, which it the first/lowest position. Is that not true? Then there's 3 settings up, which I'm weary to lift up to cuz it's says it's actually harmful to other components and ride quality
I have OME 2884 springs. Thanks

 

First, I'll note that I do not know anything about those OME 2884 springs that you mentioned, and they might add lift regardless of which shocks you are running if your rig is not loaded down with a heavy aftermarket bumper or other extra weight.

Maybe Bilstein's attorneys added that as a CYA statement on the website; I don't remember seeing it on the instructions that came with my Bilstein 5100's.

With added lift from the 5100's, the suspension will no longer ride at its original factory geometry, and it will cost you some amount of suspension articulation; however, I'm not sure how it would actually harm the other suspension components or noticeably affect ride quality (I didn't notice ride quality effects). You'll want to get an alignment after adding lift, and if you can't get the desired amount of positive caster, you could install aftermarket control arms to address that.

Adding lift with Bilstein 5100's is a really common upgrade for 4Runner owners, and as a rule, I have not seen this cause problems for people. Also, take what I'm saying with a medium-size grain of salt since I'm not a professional mechanic or suspension expert; I'm just a dude on the internet who spent half a day in my garage about 3 months ago installing Bilstein 5100's at the 1.75" lift setting, and I have been happy with the results so far.

 

@Connor MacLeod thank you very much for the details. Yes I also have upgraded SPC UCA's. I'm pretty similar to you, taught myself a lot on YouTube. So I found the instructions that detail not adjusting spring seat up. See below. General 5100 description also specifies the ring settings are for OE springs only, but instructions say don't change from stock position, period. I believe my ARB OME springs provide most of the lift themselves. I have minimal added front end weight at the moment, just ARB skids.

Upon reading more, perhaps this rule doesn't necessarily pertain to offroad 5100's and higher!
"Deviations in the spring plate height can lead to problems with the pretension (spring plate too low or too high). During compression, there is a risk of the spring going into block (spring plate too high compared to the series) or of the support bearings being destroyed. When the spring is released, the locking assembly, piston rod, support bearings and vehicle dome can be damaged or destroyed.

Different criteria apply for groove adjustments In the off-road range (BILSTEIN B8 off-road shock absorbers with the suffix 5100 and higher), which is why the off-road shock absorbers may deviate from the series. BILSTEIN Technical Support will be happy to answer any questions you may have.

https://workshop.bilstein.com/en/groove-adjustment-on-the-shock-absorber/

 

Get a bottle of touch up paint for the rockers, your gonna need it. I don’t have spacers and I’m frequently touching up paint chips on the rockers.

 

What rockers?

 

Rocker panels below the doors.

 

Figured. I got bigger dents and chips going on I haven't noticed much there yet. The valance cap eats some of that rock