SR5 Premium or Basic TRD Off Road???

FIFY.

I believe the actuator on the transfer case itself has gotten stuck in some cases, as well.

Also, you might be thinking about my rear locker. I still haven't fixed it.

 

Whichever one you buy, I wouldn't rely too heavily on anticipated future resale value. Get what you want today, and let resale worry about itself. I always plan to keep my vehicles forever, so resale in my case is meaningless. Plus, the older they get, the less concerned I am about nicks and dings.

 

ive had my transfer case bind trying to go into 4H or 4L. its especially amusing if you're in a position that doesn't allow the truck to roll freely. then you gotta do the slam/grind move.

 

I prefer my window cracked and the rear window cracked. I've tried the combo you suggested and it seemed like there wasn't much airflow.

Still has a front ADD which will not engage unless you do it right.

It can be temperamental if you don't do exactly what it wants. I've been stuck in my Tacoma because it wouldn't engage because the splines didn't line up.

I believe the payload change was the same case with my 2nd gen Tacoma but I don't remember. All I know is the rear would live on the bump stops with only 500lbs in the bed.

I think the 3rd row in the Runner shouldn't be there. It's too small for anything but children.

 

Yay, you called me a child. LoL
True, its small. But a small guy like me 5'5" fits.

 

Lol! I don't have kiddos so I figure everyone else can get their own ride.

 

Interesting because an Off Road Premium is only about $3k more than an SR5 Premium new...while a 'basic' Off Road is about $1k more than an SR5 Premium.

 

I was fortunate when I purchased in 2018. I had my choice of any trim or color on the lot. I could have had an Off-Road, but I didn’t care for the wheels, front/rear bumper facial or the fake hood scoop. The only thing I wish my SR5 had was the manual transfer case shifter. But so far the dial for 4wd engagement has worked fine. I engage 4wd H/L at least twice a month as a precaution.

 

At least here in NC for used 4R's prices are stupid high and dealership/people still holding on to the pandemic gimmick etc.

 

One thing I noticed about pricing in Charlotte NC area is new vehicles may have a bunch of Port add-ones that jack up the price so that MSRP doesn’t mean what you think. IMO, MSRP is the Japan installed options at factory plus destination charge. Some of the Port add-ones can be extra thousands. The SE distributorship is famous for Toyoguard Platinum which is $699. It includes the 2 oil changes, 4 tire rotations and paint/fabric protector. I am not interested in any of that. I do my own maintenance and the other things I can’t even tell if they were applied. The Predator steps are getting $899 and you can buy the exact same steps for half price. I noticed my local dealer has been open to “removing Port installed options” if the system will accept the change. I had him do that for both the above items lowering the price $1598. Plus the dealer normally adds $1999 for to each new vehicle which amounts to a market adjustment. They claim you are getting a limited lifetime power train warranty and all weather mats for this $1999. In prior negotiations I had convinced the dealer to only charge me what the parts dept charges him ($890) for the $1999 ad-on. In my latest round of negotiation I got him to drop the $1999 to $0 instead of $890. All in all he has dropped the $899, $699 and $890 (total =$2488). I had placed a deposit for a vehicle in Tennessee, outside of SE distributor. The Tennessee dealer doesn’t have any add-ons or up charges. Every 2 weeks I would drop by and haggle with local dealer. He eventually matched their price without me needing to drive to Tennessee. I got my deposit back from Tennessee and my ORP should be here in 10 days. I am paying MSRP from Japan plus destination fee. The only options I’m getting are moonroof, all weather cargo mat and LED interior light upgrade. The ORP comes from factory with carpet TRD off-road mats. I think the market is softening some. Getting one for real MSRP seems good. Used prices are so high is what convinced me to buy new. The factory warranty adds much peace of mind.

 

Just got my 4Runner in December and on every warmish day I've loved opening every single window as well as the sunroof. Has me very excited for the spring and summer.

 

I cannot agree more to all you have said. I have seen dealerships here in Raleigh/Apex installing window tinting added to the sticker price for a ridiculous 1k...

 

Fair price for all glasses if its 3M Crystalline tint..
But highly doubt dealerships getting tech certified to install Crystalline. Even not many shops are certified to install Crystalline tint.

 

Nope, just for the front two windows and thats it... highly doubt is Crystalline as well.

 

yeah, that's too much for 2 windows of tint.
I mean, Walmart $25 per roll and youtube vids, and you have it down. LOL

 

Used are high here too, one of the reasons I went new, could not see myself paying $3k less for something 2 years old with 30k miles on it and no idea how it was treated by the previous owner. Rather have new, full warranty and I'll put the miles on it myself...

 

We went through exactly this decision when we bought ours in December. A couple of things to note:

1 - the sunroof doesn't come with the premium, it's an option, my SR5P doesn't have the sunroof (not a big concern for me)
2 - the premium sound system is good
3 - mine (and I think all Premiums) come with heated steering wheel as well as seats, which is really nice

Personally I loved the exterior look of the Off Road, and really wanted the Off Road Premium, but there just weren't any available when I was buying. We chose the SR5P with the tan interior which I prefer to black because it makes the interior feel less claustrophobic than black. In my mind I know that I will never need the more serious off roading capabilities of the ORP, we will go to the snow a few times a year, and may be some dirt roads, but this is really a road-trip car, not an off roader (did all that hard core stuff in a Jeep a few years back). I ended up replacing the wheels on the SR5P with TRD Pro wheels in black, and blacked out all the emblems, still doesn't have the cosmetic hood scoop (which I really like the look of). Overall we (wife and I) are happy with the choice. If I had to do it again, and had time, I would have held out for the ORP (with KDSS) and spend the extra $5K (not sure where the $10K difference came from).

Ian

 

This is exactly what I’m currently doing as I sold my Tacoma TRD off Road and have a SR5 Premium on allocation. I had a TRD Off Road 4Runner prior to my Tacoma and never used the locker or CC. For me the softex seats were what I really wanted. My wheeling days are behind me for the most part and when I did a lot of that in the 80’s and 90’s open diffs we’re all I need most of the time.

 

The housing the same between all the non Limited 4wd models. I believe only the limited has a different housing to delete the ADD and in place it has a bearing. That's how it was with the 4th gen V8 since the V6 Limited had 2wd and Full Time 4wd modes.

You can see the ADD actuator in the front.

 

Was lucky to find one. Have had sunroofs/moonroofs and heated seats on several of my cars and never used them.

 

Good info!

 

The transfer case with the manual shifter is a real manual shift case but still has the ADD (Automatic Disconnecting Differential) front diff.

The front diff actuator (ADD) is electric on both. I'm not sure what the vacuum line is for or it it's just a breather like the rear locker.

 

When the wife and i got ours in 2017 we decided all we needed was something to haul the dogs in. We opted for the 2017 SR-5 premium with no moonroof. We didn’t need all that other stuff.

 

You could swap but both work just fine.

 

People that have issues don't use them ever until 6 years later then expect them to lock in before they even finish pushing the button.

 

I don't really hear about people having problems with the ADD and the transfer case actuator when they are exercised regularly.

On the other hand, I can't say the same for my rear locker.

Not true. I used mine all the time. Then, one day it wouldn't disengage. Now, it will not engage at all.

That is, if you're referring to the rear locker.

 

You have a solid point there. I've actually said that if someone wants to really go crazy with a build, they're best off starting with an SR5. Clean slate

 

Until one Eaton fails and boom all over the internet that Eaton is no good.

You were on TW before, how many failed in there? I don't remember any.

 

I've been about Toyotas since 2010 and @Thatbassguy 's the first failure I've seen with the rear locker.

 

Rear lockers? Not a lot, I guess. But, not a lot of people have issues with the transfer case, either.

I'm still on TW. I've been organizing more events now than I did when I had the Taco.