Purchased '96 4runner 2wd looking for advice

New to the forum and looking for some advice...I have been browsing various threads, trying to determine what area i should focus on to eliminate oversteer, overall loose steering, but also what feels like driving a boat when I hit a dip at highway speeds. Almost feels like Body roll.

just picked up a 1996 4Runner SR5 2WD with 308K on the clock, paid 1700 so I knew i'd be dumping some $$ into it. Started with this 16-piece suspension/steering kit from 1A:
https://www.1aauto.com/1996-02-toyo...936/i/1asfk04998/1118862/1996#product-reviews

(2) Rear Shock Absorbers
(2) Front Lower Ball Joints
(2) Front Outer Tie Rods
(2) Front Sway Bar Links
(2) Rear Sway Bar Links
(2) Front Upper Ball Joints
(2) Front Strut & Spring Assemblies
(2) Front Inner Tie Rods
I also had the upper control arm bushings replaced while it was taken apart.

Issue #1 was the new springs ended up lifting the front a TON, almost like they were made based on the '99 springs? I had the "cali bro lean" going so I had that Daystar 1.5" spacer put in the back. However, i'm still 1" high in the front so i have since ordered ToyTec 3" rear coils (arriving Thursday).

Issue#2 the tires i ordered ended up way too small after the springs lifted the front, so I am now shopping for 255/70r17 to fill it out more.

Basically I had all of this done, went and got it aligned...it no longer feels like a cardboard box on wheels but the steering is scary at times. You make a turn, it doesn't want to go back to center without you physically turning it back, and then it drifts too far that direction so you correct again. When going over dips/bumps at higher speed it almost feels like the passenger side moves up and down first followed by the left, like the vehicle is rolling like a wave. I am wondering if part of this has to do with that spacer on the back that's installed on what is probably the original spring and it's worn to shit.

When the ToyTec springs come in i'll toss those in and pull the spacer...i should be .5" higher in the rear. If i post several photos below of the suspension, perhaps somebody will notice something off?

 

**update
After speaking with a friend yesterday, I have also ordered the Energy suspension bushing kit for the steering. He said that made a world of difference on his.

 

pics of front driver/passenger

 

front coil/UCA...

 

also noticed these bolts w/ washer that had tick marks. The white lines no longer lined up, either from suspension install or from alignment.... would that have anything to do with it or does that change since the suspension angles have been modified from new springs?

 

All I can say is that I wish my 2013 looked this clean underneath.

F@cking New England.

 

Springs are actually what provide ride height, not shocks, so no doubt your original springs are sagging in the back. I don't have a familiarity with the A1 kit you ordered, but theoretically it was designed to knock off the OEM specs. OEM should have a 1" rake (back 1" higher than front), your front suspension should settle a bit - maybe 1/2" or so after you put some miles on it. Your new 3" springs will likely lift the back far more than 3" from current, as you're measuring from the current sagged ride height - just FYI. Keep us posted.

 

Ah I didn't even consider that with the sagging springs (and the 1.5" spacer)... all of that is out of the picture when i replace with 3" springs. I was originally going to order the OME 2" but when i measured yesterday, I determined that wouldn't be quite enough to give me some rake.

 

forgot to add the rear coil/spacer photos --

 

As far as the steering is concerned, from center, can you turn the wheel more to the left than the right or vice versa? I think there is a bearing in the rack of the 3rd gens that could go bad, but usually its one of two things

• Bad alignment
• steering column needs to be centered on the rack (hence the turning question from above)

[Also, you should probably change the diff fluid and grease your driveshaft - it won't help with your issues, but tends to be an overlooked maintenance item]

 

will do on the diff fluid. also forgot i had u-joints replaced, instantly cured a shutter/shake during light acceleration. wouldn't they have greased at that time?

thoughts on having transm fluid drained and refilled with 309,000 miles? it shifts smooth.

 

Yeah they would've so you're probably good there till your next cycle, i do it every other oil change - which is 2 years for me. People have pretty strong opinions on messing with Auto Tranny fluid, there is some thought that messing with it at high mileage can cause more issues than it solves, others swear by the drain and fill-drive 100 miles, drain and fill-drive 100 miles, drain and fill combo. A full vacuum pump out and fill is widely panned. I'm more of a MT guy - so I'd let others chime in.

You may also google "pink milkshake" and read up on it, as it's a possibility with the AT - where the transmission oil cooler leaks coolant into the tranny and creates a pink sludge that royally screws up ATs. Don't get yourself too worked up about it, but may just see what other folks have done / what they look for

 

Should have posted alignment earlier, all though I’m not sure it matters I’m positive I’ll be getting it done again (somewhere else next time)

 

Your rear control arm bushings are shot if it floats on the highway and tries to scoot out from under you when you hit a dip.

 

ah thank you for the tip, I thought I ordered those when getting the steering bushings but I think I got the wrong part…?

Energy Suspension 8.7106R Rear Track Arm Bushing Set

 

Tried to make a separate thread about the ToyTec coils but I’m not 30 days old…
Anyone with a 3rd gen in Dallas area want to buy 3” toytec rear springs? Hit me up. New in box. Rather sell local than pay to ship them back.

 

Looks like a lot of front end lift. I'd try to get a different front coilover set up. Maybe bilstein 5100 shocks and stock height springs. Then you can adjust them to the height you want.

With that amount of front lift you might need upper control arms (UCA). Several companies make them to accommodate lifted vehicles. They help with drivability and alignment.

Rear spacers kind of add to the floaty feeling. A proper rear lift spring will ride much better.

The steering bushings you ordered will for sure help.

 

Thanks. I’m removing spacer tomorrow. Apparently I’m about 2.5” high in the front from factory spec. Sitting at 22.25” driver and 22.75” passenger (hub to fender)

I bought Moog factory rear springs, and oddly enough if you set them against the OME 2” they are definitely taller… however, much easier to press down with my bare hands. I am guessing the 2” lift from the OME comes not all from height but compression/stiffness?

tomorrow I’m dropping off for rear springs, front and rear sway bar bushings, track arm bushings, steering rack bushings,

 

I change my trans fluid when I do regular oil changes. Just two quarts at a time that’s what the pan holds. Then it’s very easy to add two quarts through the dipstick hole.

 

I’d still put some miles on before going too drastic, those Moogs will settle in the front, I’m just not sure how much as i don’t have experience with them

 

I’ve put about 500 so far