Raptor Lights Trouble Shooting

What's up guys! Newbie here.

I'm in the process of installing raptor lights onto my 2023 ORP. I was instructed to to insert the add-a-fuse into the side closest to the exterior, 8th slot from the hood side ("IGN NO.3" -10A), but there is a fuse there already. I was then instructed to remove the current fuse in IGN NO.3, and place on the add-a-fuse then place the add-a-fuse in the now open slot. However, the add-a-fuse has 2 fuses on it already.

Do I just take out one the fuses on the add-a-fuse and place the original fuse on there? If so, which one do I replace? Or what do you recommend? Appreciate any help!

PS
I know I can also plug them into the fusebox in the engine bay, but i rather have them in the cabin

 

Your about the fifth person in the last two months with Raptor light problems. There certainly seems to be a systemic problem with the manufacturers instructions. I would call them and ask what to do and say “by the way, your instructions suck” please update the installation instructions.
Best wishes

 

I don't take risk with those fuses. I run them off a wire tap taken from the 12v outlet (cigarette lighter) switched and fused. To keep it safe I use just 2 raptor style lights to lower the current.

You could even go to next level by using a relay just like wiring a light bar.

Again, I run raptor style grill lights because I no more have my drls. Else I would avoid raptor style grill lights.

 

Takeout the 10A "Tail" fuse and insert the adda fuse with the provided 10 AND the 10 you took out (like your pic) It worked for me-its in one of the videos on 4runner lifestyle

https://youtu.be/PEaR8lKoGno

 

Yes, this was the video I used. But My add-a-fuse already has 2 fuses on it, so do I take one out and replace it with the original? Or just place the add-a-fuse into the open slot and ditch the old fuse?

 

Yeah I've been finding out the struggle looking up vids/posts with the same issue....

 

I simply removed the tail 10 and used the tail 10 fuse in my block. Good luck !!

 

Even though I’m not a participant in aftermarket parts, it frustrates me to see new excited owners having electrical issues after an installation. IMO, the manufacturers are not providing their customers a full disclosure of the importance of proper interfacing to the vehicle electrical system. My guess is that some of them don’t understand it themselves. These new vehicles are intolerant of botched electrical installations.

 

This is what happens when we create a need and want for a cheap unnecessary electrical mod. It is made with one purpose, large profit margins for a fly-by-night China-based company. The manufacturer could care less if you fry your 4Runner. The instructions are usually written in a different language, then they use a translator to convert the text to English. I'm pretty sure that the person that wrote the instructions doesn't have any education beyond early elementary school. Rant over.

 

Well said!

 

And I'm sure most people installing it have never taken an electrical engineering course or a basic physics course on how electricity works.

The products and accessories are fine, if you understand how electricity works you'll be fine.

Doesn't matter if the products are made in the u.s. or overseas, electricity and the components work the same.

Source: degree in BioMedical engineering and currently working in AI Robotics.

 

I suggest ingnoring the instructions that came with the raptor lights and instead focus on learning how to use the add-a-fuse. One of the fuse positions protects the circuit designated on your fuse cover lid and the other position on the add a fuse protects the accessory you are installing. Beyond that, all you need to do is connect the + wire going to the raptor lights to the red wire coming out of the add a circuit and the black wire from the raptor lights can be connected to a chassis ground anywhere that is convenient.

That's all there is to it. Hope this helps you.

 

Appreciate everyone's input here, I was able to spend the time to educate myself on how the electrical system works along with the add-a-fuse. Got them up and running now. Thank you all

 

Very easy fix.

Step 1. remove them.
Step 2. toss them in the trash.

You're welcome

 

First fuse closest to the fuse plug on the add a fuse = the fuse you replaced. 2nd one with the wire coming out is the additional for your accessory since it has that wire for the raptor lights.

When I did mine I used a POSI-TAP

$14 Lockitt POSI-TAP Assortment pack wire connectors 10-22 awg

https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-POSI...gid=pla-582619162306&ref=&adgrpid=63081621116

I didn't like the connection the add-a-fuse made and felt like it might come loose or fall out. And I don't remember if there was issues getting rhe fuse box cover on.

 

Thank you for your explanation! Fuse box cover is unable to go back on after.

 

i noticed that too and bought the positap

 

Do you want them on every time you start the engine?
If you want them on only when you turn your lights on, then connect them to the TAIL fuse location.

 

I didn't know if I wanted raptor lights at all so I put mine, and my baja light bar blacklights on switches. On only when ya want em. Get sick of em, keep em off.

 

which fuse did you end up using?

 

this one

 

Only chrome bullbars and regular bullbars are worse than raptor lights....

 

Glad to hear you got it done! I've installed multiple add a fuse's into my interior fuse box. Ya half the time I experienced issues when following manufacturer instructions and had to adapt on the fly. Not sure what you mean about your add a fuse already having two fuses in it, did you buy new? Mine came without fuses plugged in, and you choose your amps accordingly.

If ya'll don't like not running a fuse box cover after installing add a fuse's, Dr. KDSS sells a nice solution. Cheers

https://drkdss.com/collections/kdss/products/fuse-box-cover

 

I also started using ign no 2 recently for my raptor lights. Any problems so far? Any safety concerns I should be aware of?

 

I'm no electrical engineer but those led lights take just about no power so should be fine.

 

When are the raptor lights on with the connection to IGN NO.2? When in accessory mode? When ignition is on but engine not running? Only when engine is running?

I currently have a compressor control switch connected to the P/OUTLET fuse in a 2021 4Runner. It gets power in accessory mode and (of course) when the ignition is on. I'm hoping to find a fuse that gets power only when the engine is running or, failing that, only when the ignition is on.

Thanks.

 

since I posted that pic - I only use that fuse as an ignition on which turns a relay on which powers an auxiliary fuse panel directly from the battery, which IMO is how you should do it for most things but these raptor light take so little power an add-a-fuse is perfectly fine.

Either way, it's only on when the car is on / ignition is on.

 

Thanks, @Thacrow . The switches I've added (compressor, light bar) just control relays so the power draw from the fuse slot should be minimal. I'll give the IGN NO.2 fuse a try and report back.

 

What can be a bit funny, when a "relay" is needed, is that the relay will pull more amperage, than the thing your powering. Dont over think it all.

 

That's a very good point. In my case the relays are embedded in the controlled devices (a Cali Raised LED lightbar and an ARB compressor). Other devices might well be best powered directly.

I couldn't try IGN NO.2 because another add-a-fuse in the PANEL slot was too close. IGN NO.3, however, did the trick. My compressor switch now only receives power when the ignition is on.

Thanks for the help, everyone. Now I'm off to research alternatives for wiring switch illumination power so that it dims with the rest of the dash lights.