Will this be a solid daily driver

Hey guys so long time lurker and first time poster here. I come from a background of lowering vehicles and never lifting one so this will be my first. I am in the process of sourcing out a new 2023 TRD ORP so hopefully it will be my new daily driver in the next few months. As impatient as I am I would like to have all the parts ready for a weekend warrior ready to install the day I pick it up. This will primarily be on road but occasional weekend off roading. I am lucky enough to have a connection on wholesale priced suspension, tires and wheels. The only thing I am debating is UCA since I will be going with the eibach stage 1 lift kit and the only part i would have to pay retail on. I know most people say you dont need them with this kit. However coming from my younger years learning to do things right the first time always saves a headache and financially in the end plus time of redoing and replacing parts from cheaping out. So the plan is to have minimal rubbing (prefer no body mount chop) and a comfortable daily driver. Everything but the suspension is subject to change as far as branding and sizing would go.

The plan is as follows: (just for suspension and tires/wheels)
Eibach Stage 1 ( this is pretty set in stone as the only kit i get a discount on)

Falken Wildpeak 285/70/17
Fuel Shok 17x9 - 12 (Is this the best offset and dimensions for minimal rubbing?)
JBA UCA ( Not sure if even needed but for alignment purposes? Prefer minimal maintenance as far as ball joints go)

I guess my question is really for best wheel dimensions for daily driving and are UCA necessarily needed or what would you choose if you had access to wholesale pricing for a daily driver build. I can also get my hands on the eibach stage 2 kit as a coil over for only 300 more. When lowering vehicles I always preferred coils to cup kits as i would change my ride height. I see no benefit with the 4R as once i put the 2.75 lift in i would align it and not touch it. Unless there is some benefits with coils that I'm not seeing in this case.

 

The 4Runner is definitely a solid daily driver. Mine has 150k on it, and I commute to work 60 mi a day. I've owned it for 70k miles now with no issues.

It's not going to be cheap on gas, and going up to 285s will make that even worse, but it's comfortable and will be reliable for the long term.

As for the lift...

Eibach claims that UCAs are not necessary with their stage 1 kit, but I will disagree. It's a 2.75-in kit, and the general consensus is that anything over approximately 2.5 in will require UCAs to get proper alignment and handling. I've also watched some review videos of this kit where the installer has had to change UCAs to get it aligned correctly. So I would definitely budget for that with the stage one kit.

I actually went with the Eibach 2.0 coil over kit, which comes out of the box set at 2.0 inches, adjustable to 2.5. I specifically chose that kit for the adjustability, also because I do not want to have to upgrade UCA's, so I'm fine with 2 in of lift. You might want to look at that kit, It's more expensive than the stage one, but since it could save you from having to spend the money for the UCAs, it could potentially save you money in the long run.

I went with the rear reservoirs basically because they look cool, and weren't much more money. To me the coilovers look higher quality than the stage one kit, and it's nice that they come assembled for ease of install.

 

those rear shocks! what do they measure fully extended?

 

Pretty cool looking, right!?

Unfortunately, they're only 24 inches from the center of the lower eye to the top of the bottom bushing. I don't think it's really much, if any, longer than stock. I don't get why most rear shocks for lift kits are the same size as stock.

 

im no suspension or alignment specialist but you're going to run real close to the body mount with that wheel spec and tire size esp if you run caster correcting UCAs.

 

I’ll let Ben answer this https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s2RAS_PjFw8

 

If you go 285’s with a -12 offset, you would be lucky not to rub, very lucky. Lift is not going to help you. For 285’s and that offset, your issues will be in the x direction (horizontal) not the y direction (vertical) which is what lift does. Consider caster the z direction (forward to back). You will want to maximize caster (UCA’s) to get the clearance you need, especially without any other mods (fender, bmc) etc.

 

What would be a better offset on a wheel then to run 285? Or should i stick with stock wheels? A buddy of mine put 285 on his stock TRD wheels with same lift and says he only has minimal rubbing at full lock in reverse

 

it's common to run 285s on stock wheels because of the width and offset. wider and lower offset wheels push the outer part of the tire out, which is what rubs against the body mount. i.e. wheels turned to the right has the right part of the outer tire rubbing on the right body mount.

 

Unless you don't like the look of the stock wheels, they're probably the best option and will give you the least issues. And you already own them, so you get to save a good bit of $$.

 

The Eibachs are a real nice kit. I get buyers remorse everytime I'm reminded of them

 

I have no issue running stock wheels if its the best fit. I just figured with the opportunity to get wheels at wholesale pricing i would jump on it.