Need electrical help please!

Hi all! So I was using a continuity tester/multi meter (the one with 2 probe leads) to figure out which wire provides power to the rearview mirror dimmer sensor there are only 2 wires on the connector. I accidentally touched the probes together and heard a tiny pop/spark. After investing I found out my dash cam stopped working. It was powered by the rearview mirror with a Dongar tech adapter. Also, the rearview mirror dimmer, the seat heaters, sunroof, power windows, power inverter button, windshield de-icer, (clock jumped ahead 1 hour), front aftermarket camera, backup camera, heat/cool and A/C knobs and lighting all stopped working. Also the map and dome lights turn on when I start the engine? I checked some of the fuses for items mentioned above and they seemed to be fine. Is there anything else I should look for? Did I fry something very important? Everything else seems to work and I even drove it around the block to see if there I was anything else wrong I could notice but nothing else at the moment. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

Did you check the fuses in the car and in the engine bay?

 

Check the 10A ECU-IG No.2 fuse in the cabin fuse box to the left of the steering column under the dash. That is the only fuse that should be sending power to your rearview mirror on your 15MY SR5P (It does however supply power to all that other stuff you listed as well). Hope this helps!

Just a friendly reminder for working with vehicle electrical systems (or anything with power for that matter)

Rule #1 of electrical work on vehicles: Get a wiring diagram(s). No diagram = No touching your wiring harness, period.

Rule #2 of electrical work on vehicles: Disconnect the battery (or power source) (If you have a diagram you don't need to meter out which wire has power).

 

Yes you are totally right and lesson learned!

So I checked that fuse and it does not look blown. Any other ideas on what to check/do?

 

Maybe disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and see if that helps. Seems like a long shot though.

 

Doesn't look blown, you mean visually? Have you checked it with a meter? Another one of those rules is that fuses can look fine. You need to see very close to 0 ohms on your ohmmeter.

 

I will check when I get a free moment. So it is possible for the fuse to be bad even if not blown? I didn't know...willl double check by swapping it out if that's the case, thanks for the tip!

 

The fuse's link can begin to melt, build up resistance while doing so, and cause the system to cut current to the module due to the increased resistance, but before the fuse opens (melts) completely. In that partially-melted condition, it technically is 'blown', because it's providing resistance, which a fuse shouldn't do. Old Red has you on the right track, I bet.

 

Problem solved! Swapped in a new fuse as mentioned and all is good now! Thanks Old Red!

 

Old Red ...you are a genius, ECU-IG NO 2, does control power windows heating air conditioning unit mirror and moonroof. With your advice replaced it and save me hundreds of dollars going to the dealer.... I owe you a beer.