Running new dash speaker wiring?

Hi - has anyone run new dash speaker wiring on a 5th gen?

I recently upgraded the system in my 2022 (Kicker KSS269 components up front, Key 200.4 amp connected to a KEYLOC powering those and the factory rears) and used the factory wiring with adapters. I don't use the rear speakers much as the primary passenger is usually the dog. The amp support Bi-Amp mode so I could separately power the door and dash speakers, but would need new wiring to at least the dash. I didn't see daylight when looking down through the dash area when replacing the tweeters, so not sure if this is a complicated task or not.

FWIW the new system sounds remarkably better. I originally planned to add a small under-seat sub, but it wouldn't fit with all the power seat wiring and HVAC vent. I went ahead and installed the amp, loc and door/dash speakers and am shocked at how much better it is. Super clear, very loud, tons and tons of good bass - enough that I don't think I'll bother with a sub.

I'm wasting half the amp because I have the rear speakers set to basically silent, so would be interesting to experiment with biamp mode if it doesn't require major surgery.

 

Thanks for posting. I have been curious to "hear" how the Kicker's sound. I have been looking at that exact set. Did you run from the head unit to the Keyloc and then from the Keyloc to the Kicker 200.4 and then back to the disconnected plugs at the head unit?

 

It sounds great. I'm no audiophile, but it's substantially better than stock. Gets louder than I want without major distortion and massive improvement in bass and clarity.

I used one of these:

RED WOLF Add AMP Amplifier Subwoofer Speaker Wiring T-Harness Radio Stereo Plug Connector Compatible with Toyota 2018-2022 Camry RAV4 Tacoma Corolla Non-JBL System

$14 RED WOLF Add AMP Amplifier Subwoofer Speaker Wiring T-Harness Radio Stereo Plug Connector Compatible with Toyota 2018-2022 Camry RAV4 Tacoma Corolla Non-JBL System

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DTY8PMD

Cut it in half and connected 2 runs of 9 wire speed wire. Output from the head unit into the keyloc and output from the amp out to the speakers via the adapter.

 

Do you know if the front dash speakers are tied into the front door speakers?

 

They are.

 

Front OEM tweeter and mid in door are wired in parallel.

 

I might be trying to do this soon. I just found an amp on diymobileaudio.com coming next week. Any input before I dive in would be helpful....

 

To follow-up on this thread, did you ever running separate runs to the the dash speakers?

 

I did. I also went active 3 way with a sub in the back. Complete rehaul of my system.

 

How were your wires run for the separate run to the dash speakers?

 

Once you take the panels off, running wires is easy. It helps to have a “snake” but I did most of my system with just pushing a bunch of wire and eventually catching a part on the other side. Find a video(I don’t remember which one I watched), most of the panels just pop off and opens up a lot! I’ve pulled apart the ‘infotainment’ system at least 6 times now for one reason or another.

 

Did you re-run the door speaker wires as well or just the dash? How much watts are pushing to each channel for door and dash? Thanks

 

I did, i ended up drilling a small hole behind the rubber boot. I can take a picture later if you would like. Some people are able to get the wire through the boot, I tried for about 5 minutes on one side and saw the drill laying beside me and just said F*** it. No ragrets!

I am running an Arc Audio Nighthawk PS8-50 amp. So ~50 watts to the dash plus a tweeter resting above it (for now, i have pods i need to install) and I have the doors bridged, which I think is around ~125 watts.
https://www.arcaudio.com/dsp-amplifiers/nighthawk-amplifier

I'm going to upgrade to a Blackbird amp sometime down the road. I think it's about 50% more power, but the same size amp.