Thoughts on Dobinsons lift kits?

tbh, i've never noticed much roll or dive, but maybe i'm just not paying attention. thanks.

 

I'm very happy to see this Dobinsons thread. Love to see if there are any videos of Dobinsons MRA (3 adjuster) system how they flex offroad, if there is a video showing for they ride on uneven gravel roads, etc.. Having high speed compression + low speed compression + rebound settings would be more comfortable than suspension with;

1) ELKA / Fox with low speed & high speed compression only?
2) Kings with medium speed compression only?
3) OME BP51 with one compression and rebound?

Nothing immediate / urgent. Keeping my eye on options for my TRD Pro lift. 2in front + 1.5in rear would be enough for me to run just 285/70R17s. But something amazing offroad but lesser comfort onroad with would be no good for me. It would def take time with expecting new baby, just adding info to my database of lift options.

 

With your baby on the way. I recommend finding smoothest suspension possible. I'm regretting my eibach decision, wish would used dobs twin tubes..

 

Wow, I think first time I've heard that for eibach. I thought they were better than something like Bilstien5100. Or even 6112 for ride comfort minus extra gas capacity.

So far I have Ironman Foam Cell Pro in the Limited that is pretty good for on-road. Absorbs potholes and cracks pretty well. I think purchasing the 1.5in spring for rear and dropping the front preload about 1/4 inch help to get that good / ok comfort level (not good as stock XREAS).

For offroad I think I should go with something with 2.5 body and with remote res since I like to run with smoothest setting on the adjusters. Ironman Foam Cell Pro was not smooth as my ELKA on a bumpy gravel / dirt road. For onroad comfort Ironman Foam Cell Pro was pretty close to ELKA 2.5DC. I wonder something like Dobinsons MRA (3 adjuster) system having that extra rebound control help to make it softer even onroad? I mean to have a softer boat like feeling on both on-road and off-road? Maybe? When I look at custom shock tunes they seems to be either on-road focus or off-road focus tunes. Nothing tells me you can get softer smoother ride both on and offroad.

For anyone ask me why not buy another set of ELKA 2.5DC? When I buy them for my TRD ORP they are $3K ish and now they are $4000 for 2 coil overs and 2 rear shocks. To me personally I cannot justify $4000 for the comfort they gave me.

Right now mom is ok staying at home while I take kiddo and doggo on trails. After new born I might not have permission to leave the house leaving new born and mom. If that's the case won't be hitting any trails for sometime..

 

That makes sense to keep my lift as low as possible, but I'm concerned that using the OEM coils will be sacrificing some of the performance gains of the IMS system. Specifically I am looking for a more "planted" feel at speed over bumps, around corners, on & off ramps etc. This along with reduced nose dive and getting rid of the "floaty" feeling are my no. 1 goals. I would not be against a 2/1 lift if I can achieve those handling goals.

 

One more question, still undecided on what to get but heavily weighing the IMS kit and coils you mentioned. Do any 4Rs see lean/have need for the lean spacers with the IMS install or is this a KDSS problem only? I see the spacer offered as a lean solution, and I know some brands sell the left and right struts at different settings, so just want to make sure i understand what to expect/get for a balanced setup.

 

Not all 4Runners lean. It can be corrected up front by adjusting the IMS if needed, or by adding a rear spacer or both, but most newer 5th gens don't have a leaning problem. And adding a spacer when it may not be needed may create a lean the other way.

A lean is usually a KDSS problem, or an older vehicle problem.

 

@Crikeymike

 

Hey Jeff!! How's it going??

 

Good. Both the 4Runner suspension and the tacoma suspension are doing good also.

 

Ok, my IMS is installed and I like it so far, not sure if it's fully settled, but two questions:

1) I seem to have an issue with the passenger front taller than driver front; maybe I measured wrong when I set the coil height, or maybe I need to air up my driver front tire, but if it's a difference in height how can I fix that on the strut? Do I simply lower the coil seat, and if so how much translates to 1/2", etc?
2) I feel like there is understeer/floating in the steering column. It's slight, and I'm moving from the XREAS (which had a tight handle) and using OEM arms (but I am set at 213mm). Is this just the new feel of the IMS or is there something I should look at to make sure my front end is not loose?

 

Yeah, gotta check everything there and see what happened. Or it could just be a vehicle lean.

This explains adjusting them
https://exitoffroad.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/ExitOffroad.com-IMS_MRA-adjustment.pdf

Or you add a spacer to the passenger top strut (easier). It's a 1:2 ratio, so lowering the seat 1/4" reduces 1/2" of lift height.

Understeer is not enough caster usually. Needs a better alignment with more caster added.

 

Ah, got it, I installed myself and haven't had the alignment done yet. It drives nice out of the box but I will take her to get the front end aligned and reset.

I'd rather not add a spacer and reduce strut travel, so maybe will just check height settings and ride it out from there. Thanks, -Micah.

 

When you say understeer, is it less traction to turn so your front tires skid through turns? If you havent aligned it yet, you’ll have very poor traction because the tires will have very little contact on the inside of the tread. The camber will be way off, and if you look carefully, you’ll be able to see the top of ghe tire is further out than the bottom of the tire. It will look bull-legged. Geg it aligned first before assessing how it drives. You can drive carefully for for 50 miles or so to let it settle in, but get it aligned soon.

 

She feels solid, but there is a lot more play/rotation in the steering wheel than before installation. I feel like I'm driving a school bus sometimes.

 

I’m not sure I understand what that means. Are you saying you can move your steering wheel without the tires immediately steering? Like slop?

check to make sure you installed everything correctly. That doesnt sound right.

The steering may feel lighter because less of the tread is contacting the road (because the alignment is totally off, for now). But that’s different than loose steering.

How did you install it? By swinging down the LCA and swapping the coilover from there? Or did you take more stuff apart?

 

It's all because you have not yet had it aligned.

 

I do not have them on a 4Runner, however they came highly recommend for my Tundra. For whats it worth.

 

So despite having the driver set at 213mm and the passenger at 215mm, i had about 1 inch more height on the passenger side. I decided to lower it to 205mm and it drove better almost immediately, but had it aligned yesterday and drives tight now. The guy doing the alignment agreed it sounded like understeer. Thanks of the help, I like them so far.

 

I’m happy with my lift so far. Just not to happy how it sits, but that’s just me.
I’ll post a separate thread of my lift.

 

Homesteader, I’ve been looking at lift’s myself but what do you mean when you say you are happy with your lift but not how it sits? Seems contradictory.

 

I like it to sit more level.
Right now it has about 1”-1.5 rake.

 

You can always adjust the fronts higher to reduce rake, but i wanted as little lift as possible on mine; i will have to measure again because it's settled some but i think i went from 2" rake (19.5, 21.5) to about 1.5" (20.5, 22).

 

I believe I’m maxed at 3.5 up front. I need to double check my measurements to see how much it settled.

 

How long has the lift been installed? I expected a more level stance after lift install but I had factory rake with 2.5/1.5 lift. That being said, I've been driving it for a month or more now and back end seems to have settled lower and looks more like I would expect. I only pulled measurements a few days after install and they were dead nuts perfect. When I get the garage cleared out I will get it back onto level ground and pull the settled measurements.

 

It’s been on there for a year, but very low miles.

 

I’m am getting the IMS. What spring did you use in the rear? Thank you

 

I have the 505 rear springs and they gave me 2.5-3” of lift. I have about 1,000 miles on them. Did yours ride high at first and then settle? I’m thinking dobs might have sent me the wrong spring. Thank you.

 

Eeeeek. 505's are supposed to be 1.75-2" aren't they? That's what I was looking at. Trying to decide if I want to be stupid and hold out for the teal coils (that are on backorder) up front and miss out on the savings or just go black. Finally closed on the house so I feel like I can spend my lift fund...

 

I have the bottom of the line, $1200 set-up with C59-302 front coils. No squeeks, creaks or leaks after 80,000 miles. I was put-off with other manufactures maintenance schedule. 20-50k miles for a rebuild? No thanks. My 4R is my daily driver. I can't be without a vehicle waiting for parts. I will replace the current set-up with 314 front coils to level the truck. The 302's don't give me the lift/look I want with the extra weight of a bumper and winch. When the time comes, I will definitely replace with the same set-up, but with 314 coils.