4wd fist time issues

Questions
2021 4x4 SR5 with the 4wd knob,, not the lever
Bought used 2 years old 40k
Took it off road the first time today. Switched to 4 h going about 10 mph symbol kept blinking for 5 min. So I stopped put it in N switched to 4 low stared off then it started beeping.
We stopped then I feel it engaged beeping stopped that 4wd symbol stopped flashing and it worked. Hope this is not the norm.
Shifted in and out the rest of the day normally did it about 12 times.
Just get a little clunk coming out of 4wd H to 2 wd is this clunk normal ?
A trac worked good on some sand hills so everything worked once it finally engaged

 

It takes awhile to get into 4H with the SR5. Helps to vary your speed or let off the accelerometer. In my experience with my SR5, the first 4H engagement of the day is slow but after that, it engages quicker.

One note, 4H needs to be fully engaged, indicator not blinking, before selecting 4L.

 

You didn't say that you did so specifically, but when you are rolling and want to shift in to 4H, take your foot off the gas and it will go right in and the green indicator will go solid. I would never try shifting into 4L unless 4H is engaged with the indicator showing solid green. It is possible to confuse the truck with the actuators out of position and then you are stuck, and the truck will not move.

 

Thanks for the tips.


Doesnt go in and out like my chevy does.

 

From what I’ve read, as long as we exercise the 4H/4L on the SR5, we should be ok. Time will tell.

 

From my years owning the electric case in a 2nd gen Tacoma, here’s a few tips:

High: Always shift into 4wd high while moving. Let off the throttle some but not completely. Same for going back into 2wd.

Low: Always start from high because going directly into low range will rarely work. You can also be rolling at about 5mph in neutral for low range but I suggest just stopping. Don’t rush the shift.

Any beeping is the 4wd computer not liking what you did. Shift into high on straight roads to exercise the actuators but prevent driveline bind. I do this about once a week.

The manual shift cases have their own quirks and some of the same quirks because of the ADD front axle.

 

The actuators get sticky if you don't exercise them.

The lever doesn't guarantee engagement, because there's still an actuator in the front differential.

I'll repeat what someone else said, that you can help 4hi engage by taking your foot off the gas momentarily. 4lo can't be engaged until after 4hi is already engaged.

It will engage better once you get in the habit of exercising it.

 

Not engaging for "5 minutes" seems extreme but it's not uncommon to have a delay of 15+ seconds. There's a lot of pieces that mesh together and they don't always fit together neatly. Your job as the driver is to give those pieces the easiest possible route to engage.

Tips to do that, some of which were mentioned already:

Use 4Hi a lot more frequently, the more you use it the easier it is to engage and disengage. I take my foot completely off the gas, shift, then resume accelerating (I have a lever though). If you get the blinking indicator then remove your foot from the gas and turn the wheel slightly left to right and back a few times. If you get the indicator for more than 30 seconds then go back into 2Hi and then snap it back into 4Hi and repeat the process. The slower you are moving the easier it goes into 4Hi. It's actually easiest IMO (although this conflicts with other people's advice so decide who you believe) to engage 4Hi if you are not moving. Clunks are normal especially going into 4Lo.

 

+1. I alsopreviously had a 2nd gen Tacoma and had the same experience. Go to 4H when moving, and must stop for 4L.

If you haven’t used 4WD for 2 years that’s probably why it took so long. The owners manual reccomends 10 miles/month of 4WD to keep everything lubricated in the transfer case and front diff. If you don’t off-road at a minimum at least engage it once a month briefly on a section of straight tarmac. Even doing it for just a moment will at least give the actuators a workout and move oil around.


Also keep in mid, even ORs and Pros are not immune to this, as we still have an electric actuated front diff even with the manual transfer.

 

@Thatbassguy is right, you have to exercise them at least monthly. All you have to do is pull the lever, watch it go into 4wd, and then go back into 2wd. As long as you keep the wheels straight you don't even have to worry about finding loose ground.

The lever actuated TC are extremely reliable (no idea about the 4wd knob) because it's physically coupled, but the actuator on the front diff can be temperamental.

 

It’s not so much tempermental, as the ADD doesnt engage unless you relieve some torque off the drivetrain for a second. Barring a bad ADD motor, it engages pretty predictably if lift the throttle (and you are going straight).

If you are in the slightest of turns though, the diffs will be busy “differentialing” and wont accept anything from the add. Even the lever feels all wrong and gummy with any turning happening.

 

I'm guessing the person who put the 40k on the car never used 4WD.

 

Your fine. Go wheel the hell outta it.

 

I do the bold part with my F150, did it with the F150 I had before this one, did it with both Nissans I had before that and did it with my ex-wife's Tacoma (I've put about half a million miles between those 5 vehicles over the last 20 or so years and there has never been a storm that made me think I should have stayed home). Differences I've seen is that the F150 goes in and out of 4wd more quickly than the others regardless of speed (even at 70mph...and we're not getting into a debate about going 70mph if you need 4wd).

 

I did it with my Schwinn 3-speed. No kidding!

 

I'm far from an expert, but here is what I have discovered over the years with my 4R. When off-roading, I've found that the more level the ground, the smoother the transition to 4x4 will be. For example I was in 4H, but then wanted to go into 4L. I stopped on an off camber portion of the trail, put her in Neutral, then into 4L and proceeded to get the beeping. As the ground leveled out the beeping went away and 4L was fully engaged. Could have been a coincidence? During the recent rains here in SoCal I will engage 4H when driving around town, similar to the ways that others have described. I stay under 45 mph in 4H.

 

Clunk is normal.

Next time if 4Hi doesn't engage easily, you can stop, and go slowly in reverse too.

I think the F150 still has vacuum-operated locking hubs instead of an ADD coupling between the diff and RH CV axle?

 

Bringing up this old thread. I actuate my 4wd on a decent basis. Just 2-3 weeks ago I used 4wd for a small off-roading and to get the 4-hi and 4-low a workout. On my way home into the neighborhood I have a 1/2-3/4 mile straight road and the 4wd would not engage. I even stopped and went into reverse. I tried everything I have done before but it would not engage. Thank goodness I don’t have any Offroad trips planned, but I am always trying to be prepared.

anyways it is dead quiet in my car and I can hear it clicking when I actuate it like it is trying to engage 4wd but the 4wd green indicator just keeps blinking. I turned the car off and let everything reset and then put it back in 4wd and I hear it click one time and nothing happens. I Offroad the 4Runner (not everyday but a handful of times per year). I know about running your 4wd once a month. I miss a month every now and again but I try my best to get the stuff moving.

Any suggestions not mentioned above? Hoping it is not the CAD. The last time it was working we were playing in water puddles (not mudd) and wondering if that did it.

https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/toyota_2020_TACOMA/Actuator/14762329/4140035034.html

 

Yesterday I took the 4Runner down the road and got the front diff to engage but now I can’t get it to disengage .

Today I looked at it and drained the front diff oil which looked almost new (which is should since the 4Runner only has 30k miles and has been changed 3-4 times. I got a re-gear and have changed the oil a couple times). Anyways I found the front actuator had a hose disconnect. I am afraid that might be the cause but not yet confirmed. As I was getting ready to fill the front differential the rain came and it turned into a scurry to bring everything in from the rain. So I will post updates as I get them.

 

^That's the breather hose. The ADD actuator will continue to function with the hose disconnected. However, if the actuator has been submerged in water, water will enter through the open nipple and kill the actuator.

 

Yeah I am thinking that is what happened. Hopefully the actuators are not expensive but I did some water crossings and it was clearly disconnected that entire time. Idk how to make 100% certain that is the failure. I just tested it and the 4wd is not activated as I got stuck and had to activate my rear locker and build up momentum to get out of a spot on my property. Needless to say at least I can drive it. I will have to take it to the stealership and get it confirmed.

wonder if this is a good time to suggest to the Mrs. that it is time for a SAS to avoid this.

 

^You can remove the actuator and test it on a bench (see if it shifts when applying battery voltage to it).

Actuator is under $200: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8876608&cc=1445180&pt=10456&jsn=4839

 

Took the 4Runner into the dealership and found it was the front actuator. Because I don’t want to take anymore time away from my kids to do this work I paid for them to replace it. The breather tube location and connection will be changed in the near future as that is a huge problem with it just coming off. It has a full front skid and that breather tube should have never came off.

I hope these posts help others in the future. The only reason I am posting updates.

 

Yeah, I’m surprised that could come off at all. Oddly enough I’ve seen someone with a Tacoma that had the plastic hose nipple cracked off the ADD housing. I can’t really imagine what the heck could cause it.

By chance, do you think it might have been left unconnected when the front locker was installed?

 

Yeah that is what I was thinking. Didn’t feel right trying to get warranty but the stealership took me for the ringer in this replacement. Would have been a nice down payment on a SAS . At least it is back to working and I tested it going straight in the parking lot. I have an ARB breather and I will probably tie it into that.

 

That they fixed it without additional dealer shenanigans is the important part. Sometimes you just need to have someone else do it, but yah, the price can sting a bit.