Did my Front Jack Location Bend the Frame?

TLDR(see pics): while swapping my wheels I was wanting to jack up the whole front of the Runner and I put my OEM bottle jack under part of the frame (or so I thought?) and while jacking I noticed the "frame" starting to warp/bend. Yes, I didn't use a 2x4 atop the jack, which I think would've helped but this still seemed odd to me. Is this not part of the frame? Why did it bend? Was it just because I wasn't careful and was under that hole? Would the 2x4 solve this problem?

Long version:
Well, yesterday after 18 months of owning my '14 Limited I began what I might eventually call "The Pragmatic Minor Mods Limited Build". Swapping the 20" wheels for the ORP 17s was my first step and I'm stoked about the change! However, all the work I've done on my past cars was under the hood or only required one tire lifted at a time. So, the use of jacks and jack stands is new enough to me that I learned a few lessons!
Lesson #1 - I should've just googled before, but the 3-ton HF jack stands aren't really tall enough for easy use on the Runner. I laughed at myself for that one!
Lesson #2 - the OEM jack stand is fine but getting a floor jack or even a nicer bottle jack is going to be worth the money for me in the long run.
Lesson #3 - Using 2x4 scraps atop your jack+jack stands is a good idea, especially helpful if your jack stands aren't tall enough.

Alright, now Lesson #3 leads to my question. After studying the jack locations diagram I found here on the forum and elsewhere I decided that I would jack under the middle point of the diagram, because I wanted to lift the whole front, so I got under and looked around and found what I believe looked like solid frame in the correct location per the diagram. So I began to jack here (again, no 2x4 used) & after I gained some clearance I went and added my jack stands to the side rails of the frame (as per the diagram as well). Then I went back to continue jacking so that I would have the clearance needed to remove the tires and I noticed the "frame" where I was jacking looked like it was bending, so I immediately lowered it onto the jack stands and sure enough it was a little bent which made me uneasy so I went to one side at a time and that was a bit annoying, but got the job done. After the front troubles, I went to the back and just used the pumpkin which couldn't have been easier.

But here's my big questions: is this not part of the frame? should it have bent like that? Did I miss where the diagram was displaying? Is my assumption correct that using a 2x4 would've solved the problem, or a wider jack head like a floor jack has?

I'm not here to pretend like I'm not ignorant so please offer any thoughts or corrections!

(images added: it's hard to tell in the photos but you should be able to see at least some of the slight warping where the jack was)

 

On my 21, The skid plate itself has a “block” built into it that rests against the cross member. You use a jack on skidplate itself. The skid plate flexes a little, but no big deal. I lift from there and then put stands on the framerails where indicated in the manual (using something to protect the frame).

The picture in that manual looks different than mine from what I recall. Your picture makes it look like you jack from the second skid plate back….

 

I did not know that was considered a jack point. I usually use the frame rail on each side, just behind the front tire. If a quick wheel change is needed, I jack up the lower control arm.

 

The OEM bottle jack pad is small so you put more pressure on a smaller area which is why the outer skin bent. A real jack wouldn't have done that because the pad is larger. Also the OEM jack is really meant to only pick up one wheel at a time.

But the crossmember is fine since it's just the outer portion that bend in.

 

Yeah, I'll be getting under today just to explore more and see if I can't find that skid plate point where the front cross-member is located. And definitely will be sure to use 2x4's for the job next time! Lessons were learned haha.

 

I'm almost certain you can lift using the front cross-member just not sure if I got the spot right, but also didn't use 2x4 which was sloppy on my end so maybe it would be fine next time. We'll see! I did end up just using one side though at a time on the frame rail and all was well there.

 

Yeah that's what I was thinking about using a 2x4 and definitely investing in a higher-quality jack. So that portion where I lifted is in fact the front cross member?

 

Image looks like you didn't have jack at the same cross member. Image shows jack toward rear of second skid passed the oil drain access. Odd.
Also different from my 18.

On my 18, the back of the front skid has a reinforced stand so you jack up on skid below that and it supports itself against a cross member. If you had left your front skid on, does it have a stand that would support the spot you jacked against?

 

I've always jacked from the crossmember but with a regular floor jack and not a bottle jack.

You should be fine.

 

Based off of the pics, It looks a little the metal pushed up at the one spot, The entire crossmember looks fine. Would not sweat it.

With that being said, Next time take steps to spread out the lifting. I have several 2x4s and a jack pad for my floor jacks that distribute really well.

Good luck!

 

So you can confirm that at least I did get it right, that’s the crossmember? Just want to be certain of that before jacking next time.

 

Thank you Philip, I definitely won’t be lazy with the 2x4s next time!

 

Alright I’ll make sure I look for that Jack spot toward the back of the front skid. To be honest I’m not sure that I have a front skid, maybe first owner took it off? Limited thing? I don’t know honestly. The only skid I have is the one behind the spot I jacked here and I’m guessing that’s the “second” skid plate?

 

Looks like it to me.

I wouldn't use a bottle jack for anything but emergencies.

 

You have the oem 2-piece engine skid. Your first photo shows the rear edge of the rear part. It has the removable panel to access the engine oil drain plug. You just need to find that reinforced part of the skid where the jack point is.

 

The jack point on the front OEM skid plate.

 

+1 the emergency Jack isn’t meant for this work.

Since you are new to working under the car, some safety tips:

1 - Never, EVER, get under the truck if it’s only supported on a Jack. Always make sure it’s securely on stands before going under.

2- Take your time placing stands and always lower the truck carefully and slowly onto the stands. They have a habit of shifting as they settle so make sure they are centered and straight before you completely remove the Jack.

3. - Be extra careful if you are goin to put the truck fully up on stands and remove all 4 wheels. Be sure you are on level ground, lift one end at a time and go back and double check the first end after you lift the second to make sure nothing shifted.


Basically, work slow, double check everything and be careful. Over time you will get more confident and learn how to recognize safe jacking spots by eye…

 

This is awesome advice!! I think because I was so nervous I followed all your tips here haha. I don't plan on doing all 4 wheels at once, that seems a bit above my paygrade, I'll stick to 1 or 2. I will certainly invest in a higher-quality bottle jack or floor jack before the next go as well. Thanks for giving me some confidence about finding jack spots!

 

No prob. One last thing to add - when I do lift all 4, I always lift the front end first with the parking brake set. Then lift the rear. The truck seems to move less that way.

 

maybe the wrong forum here Jeremy haha

 

DoH!!!

I had 2 windows open and was wondering why my post on the audio forum didn’t appear.

deleted.

 

The crossmember you used is correct based on on what my 2021 owner’s manual indicates.

By the way, I jack mine up with a 3-ton HF Daytona jack using the front skidplate with no problems.

edit, oh you had problems w the 3-ton HF stands…. Yeah…me too. But they will work nicely as stands on the rear axle.

 

It WAS a nice post though! McIntosh amps are still prized units. Where does a person obtain replacement tubes nowadays?

 

hahaha.. Tubes are actually all over lots of web shops selling them. New old stock is still out there,; and companies in Russia, China, Czech Republic still make new ones. (guitar amp market kept demand alive through the 80s/90s and now there is a bit of a tube hifi resurgance)

The vintage amps themselves are expensive and hard to find mint. I got lucky and got into my first 20 years ago before collectors drove prices insane.

I am blasting some AC/DC vinyl as I type this

 

I'm an old geezer and my recollection is they were always expensive. My guess is super expensive now.