2011 shutting down on braking

I have a 2011 SR5 two wheel drive 4Runner with 164000 miles on it. I am the second owner,put over 110,000 in it myself and the vehicle has never had any problems....in fact at 53 years of age its probably the best vehicle I have ever owned. However, over the past couple of weeks I have run into a weird problem with the vehicle randomly shutting down when coming to a full stop under quick braking situations. The funny part about this is the radio turns itself off at the same time. I didn't think the problems were related until today when I was sitting with the vehicle in park. I pressed the brake pedal hard and the radio reset itself, i did it again and the radio reset itself again, on depressing the pedal fully the vehicle shut off. When this happen the vehicle starts back up with no problems and runs and idles normally,

 

I have no idea, but I would poke around the fuse box and check for loose electrical connections throughout the vehicle. The facg that it does it when you are parked rules out anything being jarred loose by momentum. Keep us updated, I would love to know the cause.

 

Or this...
https://www.theglobeandmail.com/drive/culture/article-why-is-my-car-stalling-when-i-hit-the-brakes/

 

Welcome to the forum!

 

Betting this is the issue. Vacuum leak around the master cylinder brake booster will cause the engine to stall. OP proved it when he said it only happens when he step on the brakes.

 

I just dropped off my 2011 ltd for same reason. No other issues with this vehicle. Best I’ve ever owned. 155K miles.

What was the issue? Solution? Cost?

the vacuum seal issue suggested sounds like a good guess. The reason being, my 4Runner doesn’t completely stall at higher speeds, only low speeds. So maybe the vacuum created by the engine is stronger at higher speeds thus the leak doesn’t draw enough to completely shut off the engine.

 

Welcome to the forum, Is the radio the only device that shuts down or is it the entire electrical system? Will it immediately start back up after this occurs?

 

Good thought, but our 5th gens don’t have a traditional brake booster.

 

I haven’t heard back from the technician yet. I’ll update when I do.

In my case all the electrical goes out, my radio, dash lights, etc. and if I’m going slow the engine will stall. But it starts right back up. For some reason when going faster the engine doesn’t cut out but it almost stalls. RPM drops off.

Also, it doesn’t happen until I’ve been driving for about 15 minutes.

I’m not sure if this is related but there’s a low droning sound and slight vibration coming from the left front side of car. At least it seems that’s where it’s coming from. It changes as the car accelerates and decelerates.

when I checked in they said it may be a bearing.

 

clean the battery .. check the fuses in the hood area .the Toyota fuses are very small pins ..
the PCM inspect the electrical connectors pins

 

Doesn't the brake system draw vacuum though? I was wondering if there is an idle up switch based on vacuum the brakes would pull as the pedal is engaged.
My 2012 will idle up 200 to 500 rpms when I do this at idle.

 

I honestly don’t know, but I do know our trucks don’t have a traditional vacuum brake booster.

 

I think the 2wd version still comes with a traditional vacuum brake booster.

 

Oh, okay, good to know, thanks

 

I heard back. First off, in the barrage of technical jargon I did hear they checked the vacuum booster/brake system.

but as it turns out it was just a loose “ground wire”. I did check my battery terminals etc. when this started and got up under the vehicle.

Anyway, only $150 bucks for that but they did manage to find another 3k worth of work. See attached.

 

the brakes are over 1000 bucks .. did you do the brake pads and the rotors ? I was changing the brake pads and I changed the brake fluid about 125 bucks ..

 

At a $1000 for all brakes, I would think you could do it yourself for quite a bit less than that. Front wheel bearing at $1700 also seems really high. Maybe it's just me, and I know times are tough, but I'd get a second or third opinion on the price.

 

Oh I didn’t pay them. They just quoted me and I declined the repairs to give myself time to do some homework. Was wondering what you guys thought.

 

Pads and rotors seems high-ish.

1700 for bearings seems very high. High enough to motivate me to learn how to do it myself and maybe justify buying a few new tools to do it .

 

Front bearing job isnt that bad at all. A $1700 quote would have me laughing in their face.

 

Replacing old rotors & pads with rebuilt calipers can be pricey. It’s always smart to invest into your brakes. Plus it will improve your braking. What’s your pads at now?

Buy the stuff yourself & take it to them. It’s cheaper because you won’t be paying retail. Lots of Xmas sales atm & you’ll save more $$$$

 

Not all shops will guarantee the work if they don't supply the parts...if considering that option, best to check first.

 

Just say no to drugs.......

 

We’ve been running around for the holidays. Tomorrow I’ll look into doing the work myself. Thanks for all the feedback.