Fed up with parking brake!!!

I’m a bit frustrated with my parking brakes, and I feel like im in alternate universe because nobody else seems to complain about this.

Is it still a general expectation that parking brakes be capable of holding the weight of a car on an incline in neutral? (Neutral being the important part, because a failed parking pawl in the transmission would result in the car rolling.)

Because when I learned to drive, I kinda learned that was the whole freaking point…and it was also for use as a redundant emergency brake.

But I’m just about ready to re-adjust my parking brake for the third time in 37000 miles. It just doesnt hold the vehicle on any incline AT ALL after 10-15k miles of daily use (I always set my parking brake). It will work well after initial adjustment, but, I think that three adjustments in this amount of miles is excessive.

Currently, it has friction, but not enough to hold it from rolling. So basically, the parking pawl on the trans always holds the weight of a vehicle, and you get that big “clunk” whenever it needs to go into drive.

I know the “drum in disc” design is much weaker than drum brakes of yore, but these parking brakes are ridiculous. My old Sienna had the same type of parking brake, and it worked fine.

I asked a toyota tech about it, and he said they dont have a “self- adjustment” mechanism, and they normally suck.

Does anybody know a way to improve how well they’ll hold? I might just take the discs off to see if something looks wrong in there. Just wondering if anyone know of any failure points or things to watch out for when I disassemble things.

What’s weird is that Ive been able to lock the rear tire up with the parking brake going 5-10mph…but they cant really hold the vehicle's weight on a little incline.

 

Push harder. Like, manhandle that biatch. Mine was fine 30k.

 

It’s pretty common the runners come underadjusted from the factory. Take it to dealer or do it yourself to tighten the cable.

 

The cable? Or the drum shoes? Im asking because I usually adjust the shoes through the little hole on rotor, until the drag is just right.

Should I be trying to adjust cables somewhere else?

 

Always do. I’d like for it to be able to hold after 3-5 clicks, but after 10-15k miles, it needs to go down to max, and it still wont hold on an incline.

In fact, right now, I am able to push the pedal down to the point it runs out of clicks… it will actually return a bit. Maybe that’s the problem? I should count the number of clicks until it stops clicking and compare with someone here.

 

Well, either you learn how to adjust it or back to the dealer it is

 

I'd play with the cable. I seldom use my parking brake, and it'll hold Alf no problem.

 

I’ve honestly never messed with it in the 3 years I’ve had mine. I’ve just heard that it’s a cable adjustment issue. I need to do mine.

 

Never used one unless manual trans.

 

I just need mine to work once every two years when I get it inspected. Otherwise I never use it.

 

Which is the reason I posted this, hoping somebody can give me some pointers to help me figure out a more “permanent” adjustment.

Basically, I use my parking brake all the time. And I’d like to think it was designed to be used every time you park.

If they are made to be used daily as a backup safety device, then I gotta believe they shouldnt need to be adjusted so frequently. Especially since I’ve never had to do this as frequently on other cars with “drum in rotor” designs.

There have been three mentions of cable adjustment…. Hmmmmm. I’ve never adjusted shoes that way before, but now I am starting to wonder if that should be my next step.

But my memory, as weak as it is, makes me think making cable adjustment is opening can of worms…I just dont recall why I think that. Anyone ever make cable adjustments that can educate me?

 

I don’t have a specific answer to this problem (BTW, my parking brake doesn’t work either, but I haven’t adjusted it - waiting for the first tire rotation) but back in the dark ages, when we replaced drum brake shoes there was a bedding-in process. Sometimes this happened on the drum lathe, where the new shoes would have their arc matched to the drum. I believe there was another shade-tree mechanic version that involved intermittently driving with the left foot on the brake, or a series of panic stops or something.

In any case, the parking brake on the 4Runner never gets properly bedded in, because it always gets pressed against a stationary drum. Maybe there’s a process for doing it.

 

I put mine on every night, but yeah…. I wouldn’t expect it it stop the truck in neutral. I’ll adjust it….eventually

 

This is in the manual.



So now we just need to find out what the procedure is. I bet bedding in the parking brake is on the list of often-neglected dealer prep items, like setting the tire pressures to spec.

 

Very interesting!!!! Where in the manual was this?

Somebody else mentioned applying the parking brake in motion on occasion to keep everything bedded in. I’ve done that a few times and it kinda seemed to improve things a bit. But not for that long (obviously, judging from my pissing and whining lol). Also, not knowing how much was too much, I did a few parking brake stops from 10mph and called it a day fearing i was going to overheat them.

 

Mine will actually stop the truck from 10 or 15mph. In fact, ive actually had it lock up the rear tires!

My problem is that it cannot hold the truck stationary, if its in neutral, parked on a slight incline.

So ironically, it works as an emergency brake, but not a parking brake lol

 

I'm wondering, what if you parked on an incline, set the brake, and the vehicle rolls - then you go for a brief drive, stopping a few times with the e-brake only - then try that same incline to see if braking 'cleaned up' the drums? Thinking here that discs get rusty with lack of use. Maybe drums do too when the shoes never get the opportunity rub the drums clean.

 

I've heard of people adjusting the cable before, but I've never gone through with it.

If I remember correctly, there are 2 places to adjust. One on the frame rail closer to the rear end and the other is under the center console.

Not sure if you can just adjust one point and be good or if you have to adjust both points.

Wish I could be of more help but I don't have experience with this one.

 

If repeated adjustments aren't working, have you pulled the rear rotors to inspect the drums/shoes for any contamination or checked the parking brake mechanism for broken or misaligned parts etc...?

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HqimUayBogQ

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=it4BMOrM41g

Among several...maybe there's something in these that could help. Do those parking brake shoes wear out?

 

I think the multiple points of cable adjustments is what made me think cable adjustments were a can of worms. Thanks for the reminder. I’ll put this last on my list, and look into this once everything else checks out.

This is definitely on my list to do. Although my parking brake issues predate a couple of trips that had me going through water and mud, it will be interesting to see how much mud has gotten into any of the works. I definitely am planning in pulling the rotor to look.

These videos show how I have adjusted them so far. Appreciate the links anyway, because it led me to another vid. On that vid the guy said that poor performance of the P brake…he mentioned there are spring/pins that hold the shoes on, which sometimes fall out and drop to the bottom and lead to bad p brake function.

…of course, I closed that window and lost it lol. But at least now I have that info in my head lol

 

Page 176 in the manual, in the section titled “Breaking in your new Toyota.”

This is from a page regarding Hyundais:

“Drive the vehicle at 18 to 22-MPH and activate the EPB switch to bring the vehicle to a full stop. NOTE: The EPB will automatically release if vehicle speed exceeds 30 MPH.

Allow the brakes to cool after each of the 6 EPB applications. (Drive .3 miles between applications to cool the brakes or let the brakes cool for 1 minute after each application).”
​

Of course the EPB (electric parking brake) part is not applicable, but I think the rest of it might be.

I think that after this procedure it would be wise to adjust the parking brake with the star wheels.

 

Thank you!!!

Edit: I just did this. 22mph to stopped, 6 times, with a minute or more cooling time in between.

On a very slight incline (maybe quarter bubble). It will hold the vehicle after clicking to maximum, 13 clicks. Anything less it will roll backwards in neutral. Interestingly, it holds much better against rolling forward, not sure why.

I imagine things will be better once I adjust it at the drum. Im rotating tires today, so hopefully can get this done as well.

 

13 clicks on the pedal or the star wheel?

 

Like many, I rarely use my parking brake. I do realize I should use it more often. If I'm ever parking on an incline and want to be cautious, I set the brake and turn the wheel so the vehicle will end up in the best spot should all parking measures fail. This doesn't fix the brake, but it addresses the real concerns - to me, anyway.

 

So I can tell you this is a real issue, and not just for 4Runners. My Land Cruiser has the same issue and the correct way according to a few Toyota mechanics and one Toyota mechanic who doesn't work for Toyota all said it's the adjustment on the disc/drum like you were doing.

However, after getting frustrated I tightened the cable in the center console. It's not the *Correct* way but it worked great. I think the reason it's bad is that if you replace the brakes later, it's going to be too tight.

Also, the reason you're likely experiencing the issue over time is because those drum brakes are always rubbing, always touching *just* a little.

 

Looking forward to your results after you adjust the brake.

Out of curiosity does anyone know what the spec is for the number of clicks of the pedal required to properly engage the parking brake to hold on a grade?

 

If I remember correctly, I think the manual says somewhere around 8 clicks.

 

Well, I have a problem of some sort. The passenger drum/shoes adjustment feels weird. I cant get a solid max tightness…just feels mushy and slowly takes more tension to adjust tighter, but no solid stop like the other side.

Also, If I loosen it, the rotor is still hard to turn. Cant do it by hand, have to use a lever across the wheel studs to turn it. Planning on taking off the caliper to see if I can get the rotor off.

Timing is wonderful…as these things tend to go. Sunset, and it’s outside…

 

Take the rotor off and see whats happening.