255/80R17 Toyo Open Country ATIII on Stock ORP No Lift

Hey everyone,

I'm looking at changing out my stock tires from my '22 TRD ORP. I recently started researching more and more about the 255/80R17 size, and I really like what I see.

Can anyone tell me if I'll have any issues puttying Toyo Open Country AT III 255/80R17 tires on my stock ORP wheels? I do not have any modifications other than black valences, so no added weight.

There's a lot of conflicting info, and I'm reading everything ranging from "it should be good" to "possible fender liner and mud flap mods required" to "you need a BMC".

I'll look at a lift in the future, but that won't be for a short while. I don't mind doing the fender liner mod, but I do not want to do a BMC.

Thanks for any help

 

I'm not using them, so don't put too much attention to this, but something to find out.

See if you can find one real time and see if you like the look dead straight. To me they look good from sides but not straight.

Then see if you like the ride of Load E tires. I had 275/70R17 Load E for a short period of time and my wife hated it. When I change from 265 Load C to 275 Load E back of my mind said "what have I done? " and my wife hated it so had to sell at a lost. All 255/80R17 are Load E so it might give a horrible ride.

 

Based on my check on tiresize.com it will be a 33.1” tire.
I have 285/75/17 and I am running at 34.1” (with my specific tire Nitto Trail Grappler M/T).

Anyways I removed the Front bumper, I removed the front mud flaps, I performed a BMC. Needless to say I did a bit more than the average Joe wanting to keep it stock. I also have a 2.5” lift up front.

So my next question is… do you plan on wheeling it? Is it a mall crawler? What is your future plans?

depending on your response will depend on my suggestion.
If mall crawling keep it stock. Don’t waste your time or money.

If your tires are going out and you want to explore new options and your mall crawling it I believe you should be fine. I don’t believe you will need a BMC.

If you plan on wheeling it and don’t mind trimming and making it worth I say go for it.

everything depends on you in the end. Good luck. Hope to see pictures when done.

 

Thanks for the replies,

Yes I do plan on wheeling it. I am still new to it all, so I'm still learning everything. I have done a few very easy trails so far, but nothing intensive. I did notice that in mud and wet road the stock tires weren't doing too well (which is what kicked off my search for better tire options).

I am planning on adding a lift as well in the near future hopefully, along with sliders and skid plates.

As of now, my plan is to take it wheeling whenever my schedule permits. However at the same time, it is my daily driver so I don't want to add hundreds of pounds of armor to it that I realistically won't need. I'm not going to pretend like I absolutely need every mod available for it if that makes sense. I'd like to see what I need as I go.

From everything I've heard/read/and the little experience I do have, it seems like better tires would be the most logical first mod to make. I hope that provided a little more context to my question.

Thanks again

 

That makes sense. Remember when off-roading everything is about traction. Pizza cutters typically have less traction (also less stuff to get caught up on). Which means yeah maybe better for on-road but when in the mud it may be a bit more of a challenge. That is why most off-roaders get wider tires.

I am not an expert by any means and it really depends on the terrain you will find yourself. 255’s may be just fine. I do also know that your losing about 1.2” of width per tire (compared to a 285) and that is 4.8” in all. So that totals about 1/2 extra tire on the ground with traction (in width alone). Every little bit helps. However, since you will have taller sidewalls and if you deflate idk you may get more traction in length (front to back of the tire tread).

Some people think when they drop the pressure in their tires they gain width (which is true). What they actually gain the most of though is length in the tire tread. I remember watching a video on the this topic and it might be worth a Google search.

Whatever you decide you need to like. I hum when I head down the freeway. Most people would hate that. It doesn’t bother me that much. When I want a nice quiet ride I drive in the minivan. So each person being different has different choices. I have load E tires. @kmeeg didn’t like them. I hope you understand I don’t aim to sound opinionated just want to give you facts to help you have the knowledge necessary to make the best decision possible for you. Would hate to make a purchase and regret it, I assume the same for you.

 

I have 1.6" front/1" rear lift and 255/75's on stock wheels do not rub, but the same size tire on -10 offset do rub a bit, and those are only 32". There is no way to tell other than try them, as each 4R seems to be a bit different. The other thing to consider is how heavy those 255/80's are- 51 pounds. That is a big jump from stock weight.

 

You can avoid the BMC if you do the fender liner mod up front and get your alignment shop to push your caster forward. Since you are stock height, I would ask your alignment shop to shoot for somewhere around +3.8 to +4 degrees of caster. This will push your tire forward slightly in your wheel well......enough to avoid a BMC.

 

I don't really mind the look dead straight, I'm also not too hung up on aesthetics but I understand what you're saying. One of the reasons I'm not against the idea of E rated tires is that I'm daily driving near a lot of construction. So nails are common. I don't know if that's enough to justify the E load, but from looking on Toyo's website the 255/75's (C load) are only 2 lbs lighter than the 255/80's.

Yup, I've been spending some time reading about the different tire sizes between here and the other 4Runner forum. I completely understand how the two different sizes can have pros and cons, and it seems like the tall/skinny vs wide debate is ongoing.

As much as I understand the idea that a wider tire will "float" over deep mud, deep snow, sand etc, how likely is it that 1.2" difference is what makes or breaks whether the car gets stuck or not? I apologize if I'm coming off as a guy that made a decision in his mind already and just wants confirmation of it lol, I don't mean to do that at all. I'm still open to other options.

I really don't mind humming, so that is entirely a non-issue for me.

Thanks, on Toyo's website I see that the 255/80's are 50 lbs. Then they have 255/75's that are 48 lbs. The 255/75's are definitely another option, the only other difference I see is that they are C load vs the 255/80's that are E load. I'm not sure how big of a difference that actually is. I'm mainly looking at E load for the durability, as often times I'm driving alone. Few times a year I'm driving through Mojave desert pretty far away from any major highways and those dirt roads can have plenty of random nails/shrapnel laying in them. I may be entirely overthinking C vs E and the E could be overkill, but that was the main reason I decided to consider E rated tires.

As far as the extra weight over stock goes, I've pretty much accepted that. Granted, lighter is still a plus, I'm ok going up to 50ish. I guess the 285's that get into 55+ are where I start to get turned off by the weight.

Thank you

 

This, hell the only bmc ive seen, is on one rig here running 35s. 285 70 17 here for 4 years on my 18, first with a spacer lift, and still wasnt at all needing a bmc. Im lost on why some are doing it, or why the shop says its nessacary, for such a small ish tire. Hell, some off set on your rim, cures 99.999999% of any concern. Im with you mate. (Same shit as shops saying YOU MUST GET NEW, AFTERMARKET UCAs if you push past 2-3 inches of lift, thats also bullshit)
Also to add, i wheel my junk, abusive even. Just my .02.

 

"Thanks, on Toyo's website I see that the 255/80's are 50 lbs. Then they have 255/75's that are 48 lbs. The 255/75's are definitely another option, the only other difference I see is that they are C load vs the 255/80's that are E load. I'm not sure how big of a difference that actually is. I'm mainly looking at E load for the durability, as often times I'm driving alone. Few times a year I'm driving through Mojave desert pretty far away from any major highways and those dirt roads can have plenty of random nails/shrapnel laying in them. I may be entirely overthinking C vs E and the E could be overkill, but that was the main reason I decided to consider E rated tires.

As far as the extra weight over stock goes, I've pretty much accepted that. Granted, lighter is still a plus, I'm ok going up to 50ish. I guess the 285's that get into 55+ are where I start to get turned off by the weight".

I just put my 255/75 KO's (46 lbs) on some light Konig wheels (21 lbs) so the net change is nearly zero compared to stock 39 lb tires on 26 lb wheels. That might be worth considering to offset your choice of tire. Based on your usage, I can see the idea behind E rated tires. I am curious as to why not use a stock size E rated tire? You would get the durability you want with zero concern about rubbing. A stock 4R with great tires can do some pretty amazing things.

 

New wheels are in my future plans as well, that's actually exactly what I was thinking regarding the net change in weight. I'm really liking the look of Volk TE37XT's but they are $$$$$.

As far as stock sized tires go, I'm not against the idea of it. I just figured that if I'm already spending the money and going through changing them, I might as well take advantage of whatever extra benefits come from either the tall/skinny or wider tires. And while I'm not prioritizing looks over function, I do like the look of the slightly larger tires.

Ultimately, if the 255/80 can't be made to work for now then I may just go with something else.

 

Without a lift. I sugguest 255 75 17 instead. Its larger then oem but not by much, and instead of e rated(because all 255/80 are e rated) you can get sl or c rated. I'm actually considering 255 75 17s