Rear Sway Bar Delete???

Backstory: I installed the Ironman foam cell stage 2 kit over the weekend. Got everything torqued to spec and alignment done. I was unable to re-install the upper bolt on the passenger side rear sway bar bushing bracket. I got the hole lined up perfectly, but the bolt just never would grab the threads. I even asked the alignment shop to try once it was on the lift and they had the same results. Not sure if the threads inside the bracket are bad or what.

Now: I have something loose that makes noise but ONLY when making 90 degree right hand turns with some type of wheel articulation (pulling into a parking lot). Left turns make no noise. I’m going to get under it tomorrow and make sure it’s nothing else, but I suspect it is this bracket. It’s a metal noise that makes an initial noise when the wheels articulate and again once the vehicle levels out.

Question: if I remove the rear sway bar entirely, how much of an impact can I expect in normal driving? With the bracket threads being a permanent part of the axel, I’m afraid the solution would be costly.

Open to other suggestions as well.

 

The solution isn't costly at all; just need to find the right size thread tap and run it through to clean the threads up. Most hardware stores carry a decent stock of sizes (or I know it seems most ace's around me does). Not sure off hand what size and pitch the sway bar bolt is, but just need to figure that out, and will be a very easy fix.

 

So, aside from the outer bracket bending and possibly messing up the other bolt, how quick do I need to get this done?
Would I be able to take the bolt in to a hardware store and have them help me determine what I need? Sorry, I have no knowledge of these things. I can do the installs, but issues like this always throw a wrench in my plans (pun definitely intended).

 

You can take the bolt into the hardware store to match it up. They typically have plates in the nuts and bolts area where you can check/confirm the size and pitch of a bolt. Take that info over to tools where the thread taps are and grab the matching one.

It’s not a huge deal to run without the rear sway bar in the interim; will just feel a little squirrelly in the rear going around corners. Fwiw, I ran without front or rear swaybars in mine.

The thread tap tool is very easy to use, just slowly thread it though like a bolt. It will recut/clean up the threads, and after the bolt will go in smooth and easy.

 

Thank you!
just thinking ahead, in the event the bolt still won’t go in, what else could possibly be wrong? The bolt itself doesn’t look like there’s any damage to the threads… which makes me question if the threads inside are even bad.
I still don’t know if that’s what is making the noise, but it makes the most sense.

 

Unlikely that it’s anything else. Most likely the very first thread or two got damaged during disassembly or when first trying to put the bolt back in, might have been cross threading. The other plausible issue is if the nut inside the frame broke loose (I don’t remember off hand if it’s the frame that’s threaded, or if there’s a spot welded nut on the inside)… if that’s the case though, the bolt would poke straight in without catching anything (since the nut would no longer be there).

 

To answer your question about driving quality with removing the sway bar. When I removed my rear sway bar because I went with a long arm 3 link in the rear, but kept my front sway bar, I actually didnt notice much of a difference in drivability. I also didnt corner very hard while driving, I literally drive like a grandpa. With that being said once I got rid of my front sway bar drivability took a huge hit, the truck leans like no other with that sway bar being removed on even the most modest of turns.

 

Thanks for the responses. Here’s an update:

it was the sway bar. The bar had come out of the bracket and bent it up pretty bad. I was able to use the other bolt to secure the top side of the bracket and hammer the bottom side somewhat back into place. Not enough to bolt up the bottom half, but enough to get the two tabs on the bracket back underneath the mounting bracket. I figure there is a greater chance the bar will travel upwards than down and this has seemed to secure it for now.

It must have been the bolt threads that were messed up because the other bolt went into the top hole just fine.