Cooler recommendations to plug into the booty hole?

Hello ladies and gents. Has anyone found a good cooler that they run into the stock plug-a-ma-jig-a-ma-thing in the cargo area? I was going to just upgrade my ice cooler but thought one running off that outlet would/might/possibly be better? Any suggestions or telling me I am an idiot and to just use an ice box cooler instead are all appreciated. Thank you!

 

Is there power running to that outlet all the time or just when the vehicle is on?

 

Anyone have a good cooler they recommend that fits under the rear cargo cover? Searching the forum comes with coolers for the transmission.

 

Im guessing the reduced wattage while engine is running related to protecting the alternator? Maybe it cant handle the high draw, and you might end up with a dead battery (if you drove for a long time if something with a high amperage draw was plugged in). I dont think modern cars like to do well with a dead battery even when already running. And maybe toyota allows for full draw with the engine off because if it drains the battery, it’s wont be affecting critical electrical systems while the car is running.

It doesn't work with the key off just to prevent accidental battery drain every time you forget something plugged in.

 

Jackery and a fridge. Life changing.

 

https://icecofreezer.com/products/iceco-12l-mini-portable-freezer
I have one of these. I like it. They make lots of other good stuff. Worth a peek.

 

Calm down. Don’t jump to the ice box because of a few peoples comments that have literally missed a few items of note. The modern vehicle fridges do not pull a lot of power in the first place. I have an

$449 ICECO GO20 Dual Zone Portable Refrigerator with SECOP Compressor, 20 Liter/21 Quart, DC 12/24V, AC 100-240V, 0℉ to 50℉, Mini Fridge Cooler Refrigerator for Outdoor, Home Use, Driving, Gray

ICECO GO20 Dual Zone Fridge/Freezer combo. It isn’t huge but not small either and honestly it serves the purpose for the food. We use an icebox for the drinks since they don’t get ruined by the water after the ice melts.

Anyways I hook it up to my Jackery and it pulls a max that I have seen of 68 watts using both the fridge and freezer. Even if it goes to 95 watts your still fine. The thing to note about the 4Runner is your car has to be on and you have to push the 400w power inverter button every time you power on the 4Runner. You forget and your fridge won’t come on. I use the cigarette lighter and it does just fine. We were able to bring frozen desserts with us on our trip. I just drove 4,000 miles 1.5 months ago and keep a bunch of cold items in the fridge. You won’t need a Jackery unless you plan on camping or being at places that do not have an outlet. I hope this helps.

 

Yep, thats my setup. I run a cigarette lighter plug to the jackery to keep it topped off and a plug from my fridge to the Jackery to power the fridge.

 

Setpower

I use the RV45D

https://www.setpowerusa.com/products/45qt-rv45d-portable-freezer-fridge

Use promo code "Ozark Overland" for some big savings.

 

Me too. Works awesome. I was worried the 300 wouldn't work, but after 10 hours overnight in a snowstorm in Flagstaff the Jackery was still at 70%. I bet it would go 48 hours or close to it. I drove to Southern Utah and it was fully charged again. The Jackery was the 2nd best purchase I have made. Fridge is number 1. I could personally live without a fridge, but my dog eats raw food so I needed it for him.

 

Same lol. After a few overlanding trips, everyone's done with their Ice runs lol. Its just convenient and everything stays cold. No need to calculate for ice space or plan for melted water.

 

Anyone have any experience with the Setpower AJ40?

 

I have the SetPower RV60D and it’s been great the past 6 months. With last years Black Friday weekend sale, it was ~$350 after CA taxes.

 

I just picked up these this spring.

https://www.bougerv.com/products/59-quart-portable-refrigerator-freezer

https://www.bougerv.com/products/6000mah-216wh-portable-power-station?variant=39839105908927

https://us.ecoflow.com/products/river-max-portable-power-station?variant=39335175979081

https://us.ecoflow.com/products/160w-solar-panel

Used the fridge for a couple day camping trip this past weekend, was able to keep battery charged via solar panels.

traveling to camping, I just plugged in the small battery into cig lighter in back, and plugged fridge into battery. Worked great for when I stopped and shut off the vehicle.

I went with this fridge as we camp and do festivals a bunch, but also plan to drive out west when we can. For over night, I’d use the big battery.

 

Here is my setup:



Before Inflation went stupid, I used the Ozark Overland code to buy it for $405. The wrap is $85. No matter what fridge you get, the wrap is instrumental to keep your energy usage low and items cold.

 

Pass through charging on the Jackery?

 

Yes, Fridge plugged to jackery and jackery plugged to truck. Jackery charges while offroading and fridge stays powered 24/7

 

I bought an Iceco VL45 last Black Friday for $450

https://icecofreezer.com/products/iceco-vl45-portable-refrigerator-freezer

 

It’s a great frig but the cord is kinda crappy. When I upgrade I’ll just buy this one. It’s better quality

ARB 10910076 Power Cord Cable for ARB Fridge Freezers DC 12V

$37 ARB 10910076 Power Cord Cable for ARB Fridge Freezers DC 12V

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHUO8Y2

 

go to Dometic.com they have a great selection of Refrigerators / freezer combos of multiple sizes the only thing as with any good system like this is they do have low battery cut off however there are multiple ways to set up a good working system.
I have a Dometic CFX3 95DZ that I use for for camping and have a Goal Zero portable Solar rechargeable power supply that I run it from and recharge the power supply from both Solar and the 4Runner. the Goal Zero gets me 72 hours run time if I am not running it in freezer mode and not charging it But I get longer if plan a head by setting entire unit in freezer mode at home and freeze Ice packs and whatever else food wise then keep one half in freezer mode while traveling and once at camp site I set the freezer half to 34 degrees and the refrigerator half to 40 degrees and we lasted entire week no problems charging from 2 - solar panels rated 150 watts each

 

I have the Setpower RV45d dual zone for 6 months and my dad have the Setpower AJ40 for almost a year. Both of them cool very fast, quite and no any issue running 24/7. Absolutely love it!

We used "jasonoid" discount code to save a lot! Jason reviewed a Pro model two months ago, i think i will pick up the RV45D pro model if they released it earlier. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wC18KFc26hM&t

 

looks like "Ozark Overland" and "jasonoid" give the same 15%ish off

 

I think mine runs at 400 watts with the engine idling and in park. Maybe it's just limited to 100 watts when in gear. Or, maybe I'm wrong..

 

Before Inflation went stupid, I used the Ozark Overland code to buy it for $405. The wrap is $85. No matter what fridge you get, the wrap is instrumental to keep your energy usage low and items cold.[/QUOTE]

Hey K-Paul, I have a question for you. I have the same fridge and have been looking at the cover. The lid can be set up to open from the left or the right side. Can the cover be set up the same way? For example, my SetPower is in the back on the passengers side with the controls facing the rear of the vehicle. I have it on a slide and the lid is set to open up from the passengers side because I'm always towing my kayak trailer.

 

You are correct sir. And when it's in park or neutral you have to make sure you hit that pesky switch and get the green light that shows you are at 400 watts.

 

The zipper will open the insulated cover towards the left of the keypad. If you invert the lid, there is enough extra zipper to where it is relatively easy to open the lid from the opposite side, you will just have the insulated flap a little in the way.

EDIT: I highly implore you to get the cover, for $85, the energy savings is amazing. And the contents of the fridge stay much much colder. It makes a massive difference, especially in those sneaky STL swamp heat days lol. Dont forget to use the discount code for 12% off.

 

I wish they cared just a little more to provide a voltage gauge on the cluster

 

I believe you are correct. Toyota considers a worst case load on the alternator, with all driver-selected options like headlights and fog lights on, radio on, window defrosters and mirror heaters, all accessories on, etc., have a safety factor of 50?%, and still have enough current to run all the other electrical devices like the transmission, e-locker, ECUs, etc. and still charge and maintain a healthy battery while driving. Therefore a conservative limit of 100W is allowed for the inverter.

I’ve read where the stock alternator supplies 130 amps.
100 watts / 13.5 V = ~7.5 A.
400 watts / 13.5 V = ~30 A.

When I run my fridge from a Jackery battery and simultaneously charge the Jackery from the AC inverter it draws 80W worst case. So I’m OK with the 100W limit. Does anyone have a fridge/battery system that needs more than 100w?

 

Which Jackery model do you have? I was looking at the Jackery 500 or Bluetti EB55. The EB55 looks all around better but reviews said it was noisy and the inverter is even louder when plugged in.

Any noticeable difference charging the Jackery from the 12v plug vs inverter in the rear?