5th Gen Suspension Install

My Eibach Stage 1 kit was shipped out today 2 days after ordered, preassembled for $759 (no tax) through Wheelers Off-road.

Initially, I was put off by DIY until I was quoted roughly $850 for labor. In my last post, lots of people suggested doing it myself which I’m open to the idea now. Been doing a decent amount of research/watching videos, and it doesn’t seem like the install is TOO bad for a novice seeing that these are preassembled stuts. What advice and additional tools would you recommend for the install or that you found very helpful? I have a 2020 SR5 prem without KDSS with 43k miles. Loctite? Anti seize? Reuse hardware (if not, what hardware to buy?) I’ll be getting an alignment done after these are installed. I’ve read that UCAs are not necessary with this kit, but what about diff drops?

I have a :
- 4 ton floor Jack
- 2 Jack stands
- Torque wrench
- ratcheting wrench set
- Necessary socket/wrenches
- a case of beer

 

sounds like you’re good to go. Although if you ever needed an excuse to buy that awesome battery powered half-inch impact gun, this is the tine to do it!

I used the video crickeymike put out for dobinsons install, which avoided some unnecessary disassembly. Work carefully,patiently, and stop if something isnt quite right. Only well practiced pros are are both good and fast at the same time. No shame in taking your time.

General wrenching advise…,” never take a hammer to anything until you understand what the problem is.

And always verify your new impact gun is set to loosen!

 

I would invest in a good pipe. I normally work with ratchets and no power tools. Ratchet and long pipe works well to break nuts. For pipe I use the hollow handle of an old hydraulic jack

 

yes, with great power tools, come great hardware responsibility. Impact guns are great, but can make a mess of things very quickly if your not careful.

 

Good for you! You will be glad you DIY’ed it. Installing the kit is half the job. The other half is learning how to align it when you are done, at least so it’s safe to get to the alignment shop. Easy stuff, saves a lot of $!

 

I plan on going to a shop to get it aligned, so another step crossed off!

 

That case of beer could possibly be the most important tool on the list. It could be used to bribe volunteers if help is needed.

 

Don’t be surprised if that’s not quite possible after the installation… (here we go again lmao)

 

hahah don’t jinx it

 

You could mark your alignment cams so you can return to the factory setting, just in case they accidentally get moved if you do the dobs way (loosening and lowering the LCA).

If you are not installing fancy adjustable UCAs, the alignment should not be dangerously off. In fact, the off road shop I used told me to put a couple hundred miles on it so the suspension settles a bit, first. I did just that, although with some caution while driving because your contact patch will not be ideal.

 

If anything, if no fancy adj UCAs are installed, worst case is usually the camber a bit tweaked. Easy to adjust that out. I wouldn’t drive it if it looks wonky. Sure, if it comes back down looking relatively straight, but you can’t depend on that being the case every time. There are angles and physics and stuff involved.

 

Another question. Should I be using loctite or anti seize on any bolts during the install? I will be sticking with stock UCAs so those will be untouched.

 

No just torque to spec

 

Yup, torque everything up dry. I like to make sure threads are clean on the critical bolts. I just carefully go over the threads with paper towel or something, i avoid using oil or anything that will overly lubricate them. That might throw off the torque wrench.

I grease up any exposed threads to protect from corrosion after things are torqued down.

 

Where are you located? I’m down to help.
Non KDSS lifts are too easy.

 

Where you located? I live in RI, whenever I remove/reinstall anything, antisieze is used.

 

Kansas. From the videos I’ve watched.. it doesn’t seem too terrible. Just gonna take it on step by step.

 

Update: finished up in roughly 6 hours solo. Brake/abs lines all good!

Any tips on torquing everything down? I’m told to torque everything while it’s on the ground, but lots of bolts are hard to reach and nearly impossible to get to with the tires on? Or should I do this with tires off? Also have a diff drop to install.. does it matter whether I put it in before vs after the alignment?

I’m going to the alignment shop tomorrow, so I won’t be really driving until then.

 

Some of those nuts require a high dollar torque wrench with changeable open/box ends. Some you can squeeze in a short socket. Gotta do the best you can and get it as close as possible on the ones too tight to squeeze a socket onto. If you can only torque some with it lifted, then do that.
Edit: you could ask the alignment guys to double check the questionable ones for you. UCA? What others could you not do?

 

Good job, also. It looks good!

 

Great job! I did the same a year back, still very happy with my Eibach Pro Truck kit.

 

for the LCA frame bolts: Get a small jack under the lca somewhere and just jack until the car starts to come up a bit. Then put a bigger jack and jack stands under the frame rails for safety, and remove front wheel. This will give you a bit more space for a torque wrench.