Krown Rustproofing Update - Year 1 Report

Last May I took delivery on my 2021 4R TRD/ORP. At 600 miles I drove it to Krown to have their full rust proofing application. Krown recommends this application be done once a year, which will also continue to validate their warranty.
Typically, winters in the St. Louis, MO area are on the moderate side. But towards the end of last winter we had TWO heavier snowfalls, 8-9" each. And after each snowfall the roads were plowed and full of salt everywhere. Of course, the higher summer temperatures, combined with mid west humidity can also add to potential rusting. And some occasional, light off-road use. So I figured 2021 was a reasonable test year.
This morning, with 13,000 on the odo I took it back to Krown for the second application. While on the lift, just before applying, the tech was good enough to takes some photos using my camera. The first thing I noticed was the heads of the bolts - no rust started. The frame, chassis, and other components still black and clean. Basically, everything still looked factory new. I realize it's only been one year, but I'm still impressed. Here are some pics:

 

That is impressive right there!!! How much does the Krowns application cost?

 

With local sales tax here: $153.50 To me, very reasonable, and cheap insurance considering the 4R's frame reputation. Only takes an hour and a half. You can wait for it.

 

did you do the hole drilling in the body work or no? thinking of going to Krown but just for the underbody coating.

 

I did but at a ‘rust stop’ treatment. Pretty much the same thing. I didn’t daily mine last winter and my oil is still slapped everywhere. I felt kind of bad for the guy that had to replace the front differential, he had to go home that day a little oiled up. Was hoping it wouldn’t get tracked into my interior haha.

 

Yes, holes drilled the first time. Whole body and frame. The second time they just removed the original black plugs everywhere and re-applied. Took about 10 minutes less this go around. And they hand wash and dry the vehicle afterward.
NOTE: The liquid that is applied goes on CLEAR. So that's why they can apply it inside the engine compartment firewall, hood, etc. Electrical wiring not effected by it.
But if you want just the under body BLACK again, there is another process on the market that does apply a black coat (Not Z-Bart) but the name escapes me at the moment. But other members here will know.

 

yeah not sure I want the holes in the body work - and I don't really trust anyone other than a pro detailer to hand wash my truck. Not sure 5th gens rust that bad on the body work anyway.

 

Thanks Rick! I'm going to do year two myself closer to the fall.

 

Looks good Ricky. I did the fluid film on mine but was garaged all winter and not in rain so it’s not a fair comparison.

It would be interesting if some guys who have fluid film pics after one winter could post to compare.

 

Looks fantastic! If I had bought my new I definitely would have gone that route, and I really do think that if you're in a rust belt state it definitely pays to buy new to start this process right away if you can afford it.

I spent a lot of time under mine cleaning things up when I first got it when it was 6 years old, but the damage had already been done. It's not bad for the area though, and still looks better today than the day I bought it 3 years ago.

 

Looks good,

So they drill holes in the frame and lower body?

 

I went for a walk the other night and saw a 1-2 year old Ranger pickup. It had surface rust all over and very visible particularly in the rear wheel well.

It’s really ashame that in todays world these manufacturers don’t do anything at the factory. Here was a nice looking truck with rust everywhere in the rear well visible from a distance while out for a walk.

 

These picts were taken about 2 weeks after I took delivery, runner was at the dealership about 4 days. https://www.4runners.com/threads/2022-lr-orp.25460/page-2#post-346120



So Keeping rust at bay is hard even brand new. I had it sprayed with PB Surface shield, have used Fluid film and wool wax before, I believe this PB stuff is like the 2 combined.

 

That stuff looks well worth the expense. I just tried to find it in my neck of the woods, Tulsa, OK., but the closest shop to me was either St. Louis or Omaha.....

 

The body, yes. The frame, no.

 

Yea. That's one problem. They are not located everywhere.

 

That's correct. I some what mis-spoke above. I remember the first trip they told me there were already enough holes on the frame to accommodate. Apparently this stuff creeps even to small areas.
During this second trip they mentioned that they have a number of 4R's showing up, especially new ones. Apparently, the word has traveled ref the frames. At least with the enthusiasts crowd.

 

Any further updates Ricky? How does it look now? I picked up a new '23 trd or last september and had Krown applied immediately. We got our first snow dump a few weeks after so the timing was great (Im in British Columbia Canada).

Im curious to see how things look under there almost two years later. I will be getting my second application this fall and will post some pics of the underbody

 

Hi Lynnaray

Traveled to B.C. many times on business during my working years. Good you had it done when new. I had my first application done at 600 miles on my 21' when I first purchased it new. I goes in for it's third application this coming May. So far, very happy with the results. Still no rust anywhere. Even the heads of the bolts haven't started to rust. I posted photos here on the Forum a year after the first application, and a year after the second application. So far, so good. To me, it's well worth the $150.00 USD once a year. Here are the earlier Threads:

https://www.4runners.com/threads/krown-rustproofing-update-year-1-report.26094/

https://www.4runners.com/threads/krown-rustproofing-update-year-2-report.31766/

 

Congrats on your retirement. Damn, she looks great! Krown is the gold-standard up here for rust protection, coast to coast. Theres no other option when snow is present 7months out of 12 (for us here in the rocky mountains at least).

Do you have any shots of your engine bay? What do you do to keep the bay clean? Its a little messy in the engine bay from the original application and also from a bit of dripping out of the hood where they drilled and applied, so I'm looking for the best way to clean things up under there

 

Sorry. don't have an photos of the engine compartment. Never noticed any overflow in there. Apparently, they just applied the Krown in the hood, firewall, and wheel arches from what I can tell. I just clean my engine bay at the coin car wash at the same time I do the tires and wheels.
You probably noticed after driving and getting out of the 4R a burning smell. That's just from a bit of over flow on the exhaust parts. It goes away in about a week.
I'll make another report and photos this coming May just before applying the third application for a third year report.

 

I did the Krown undercoating on my new 2023 4Runner at about 1,500 miles. I now have 7k miles on it. I've been through frame deep mud 3 times and power washed the underside each time. About 500 miles are off road. It's been through plenty of snow and salted roads. I just crawled under it with a flashlight and I have no rust at all. So far I am pleased with the protection it's providing.

 

Sorry I'm a little late to this thread, but maybe I can add something based on the fact that I've lived in the heart of the Rust Belt (Rochester, NY) for my whole life. In well over 60 years, I've pretty well figured out what works and what doesn't work for corrosion protection on vehicles.

To the OP, the best advice I can offer you is that unfortunately, you're far better off preventing rust than trying to fight / mitigate it later on. As I think you've already found out, although you might be able to slow the spread somewhat, you're just not going to be able to stop it unless you completely disassemble your vehicle and blast / dip or otherwise completely remove the rust. Then you have to start from scratch with cleaning, degreasing, etching, priming and painting everything all over again. Oh yea, and then you still have to add additional corrosion protection.

And no driveway applied paint system (POR-15, Rustoleum, etc.) is going to stop rust that's already started for several reasons. First, your real ability to properly prepare an already corroded surface for paint is about zero. Second, if you don't remove 100% of the corrosion, it's just going to bubble back through - no matter what the paint manufacturer says. Finally, most of the folks who claim success with this type of countermeasure live where real road salt is rarely used. (I'm talking to you surfer dudes.)

I am a big fan of oil-based systems such as Krown / Woolwax / NHOU etc. The beauty of these systems is that the low viscosity oil creeps into areas the conventional systems (like Ziebart) never reach. But these are the areas where corrosion starts, and it can take years before it becomes visible. But by that point, the damage is unstoppable.

Another system / product I really like is Waxoyl. The beauty of this product is that unlike pure oil-based products, it's a one and done deal. All of the oil-based systems require periodic maintenance. So, if you're good at getting things done on a schedule, go with an oil-based system and always get the resprays done. If you want great protection without the periodic maintenance, consider Waxoyl. No matter what you do though, never, never, ever get Ziebart. I could go on for weeks about how bad the product and the business practices of the company are. Hope that helps.

 

So far this year here in St. Louis, we've had one of our mild winters. Sometimes that will happen. Being about 350 miles South of Chicago often makes the difference. But it may turn out like last year in March when we got two 7-8" snows back to back. Heavily salted roads, etc.
Fortunately for me, there is a brushless car wash down from me that has a very powerful under spray. Doesn't just "squirt" the water on. It has some serious pressure. Works much better than I can do at the coin car wash. And covers the whole width of the vehicle.
It does seem important to have the Krown application done once a year as advertised. My third report in May should be interesting.

 

I'll do mine every years as well. I might even do a bit of in between maintenance myself weather it's needed or not. I intend to have this 4Runner a very long time.

 

I use Krown as well. It is messy, so don't park for some time over nice new driveways.

 

Hi Too Stroked

Thanks for your Post and opinions. Much appreciated.
I too am old enough (73) to remember when Ziebart was the only game in town (other than cheap under coatings) I remember their advertising said: "It's Either Us Or Rust". LOL My Brother had Ziebart applied to his 77' Ford pickup when new, less than 200 miles. He kept that truck for many years. Soon after, he moved from Missouri to Montana where they seemed to have used sand on the winter roads versus salt. Dry versus wet snow I guess. But the Zeibart would eventually flake off - exposing the hidden rust behind it. Also, mechanics hated the stuff having to scrape it off to get access to parts that need replaced. But, as it was back then, it was our only choice. As you mentioned. there are much better and less expensive options today. Especially if you can do it when the vehicle is new. What I like about the Krown is that it goes on clear. So you can do the firewall and fender covers in the engine compartment.

 

Yes, handy to keep a spray can around for the occasional trailer hitch and such for touch ups.

 

TRUE. Fortunately, mine sat in the garage on a parking mat. That mat was worth every penny I paid for it. LOL

 

I tried to get a picture of mine like you did, but it's just sitting on the garage floor. You can see it's still like new and what you see is sand/dirt on the bottom.....no rust.