33” Tires gearing help

33” tires, thinking of re’gearing the differentials, I think the 5.29 would be too much… but the 4.88 might be okay? What would you guys recommend. At some point I would be interested in getting 35” tires. Would the 4.88 gearing still be good for that??

Let me know what you guys think.

Fyi, this is my daily driver lol

 

Welcome.

 

4.88 are the popular ones, which many don’t get until they put 35’s on their rigs.

I would consider 5.29 if you plan on doing some serious crawling or upgrading to bigger tires than the 35’s.

 

I'd go 5.29

 

33s aren't even that big.

Unless you've got some real tall gearing, factory gearing like 4.30s will put you just 3-4 mph over at 65mph.

I daily drove mine for the longest, and wheeled with it as well.











But you mentioned going 35s, so I'd opt for 5.29s and go lockers "while you're in there"

 

4:88 is not a bad choice for 33s or 35s.

 

Yeah, 33 aren’t too big. But once these wear out I’ll go with a fresh set of 35s. And I want to have my gears in by then. I have been searching for a rear E-locker for some time. Just haven’t got lucky ig. Thank you for the input! That graph is awesome!!
My rear end has seen better days tbh. Which is why I want to find a e-locker and throw in some nitro gears and pan hard correction kit before installing it. (As well as bearings, seals, Drums and shoes.)

That looks super fun! Lol you Are super tilted on that picture!!! 3-wheeling FTW!

 

Plenty of places have lockers in stock, just depends what you're looking for. Personally I'd go Harrop over ARB.

As for panhard correction, you've long needed it based on that rear pic

And yeah, my 4R had it's driver wheel a good +4' in the air.

 

I meant in stock for the factory E-Locker (junk yard) it works just as good as ARB from what I’ve heard.
Yeah panhard is a must right now. Ride quality is pretty bad in the back. Specially with the heavy weight OME springs. I’m about to place my order for them. But I still need a new rear diff.. I don’t know how bad the rust is on the diff.

 

You'll need a new rear axle housing then; be very difficult finding one at a salvage yard. However, they seem to come up very often in part-outs on FB Marketplace, Craigslist, and other venues.

I would argue what you heard about the factory locker though.

The one nice thing about ARB is that they lock the second you want it to. The factory locker however, requires maneuvering to finally get the rear to line up in order to engage. Some people (myself included) even had to move forward or back quite a bit just to get it to unlock as well which is difficult in certain trails or obstacles.

If I had a choice, it'd be an aftermarket locker over the factory setup any day of the week.

As for ride quality, get the proper coils from the get-go and the right shocks to dampen said ride.

 

Okay, I’ll have to try out Facebook for the housing. And yeah that does make sense about the locking on demand with ARB.
I’m going to wait on replacing coils till after I weld up a rear swing out bumper, added weight might make it ride better, won’t be until after the different situation gets resolved though. Shocks are the billstein 5100 So I should be okay there.

thank you for all the knowledge! Definitely beats asking google. Lol