loss of power on long uphill graded roads.

Awhile back I did a complete tuneup using LCE equipment, replaced my injectors with the 4 hole type, replaced distributor guts, reset my timing to +12* new intake manifold gaskets. Cleaned throttle body. New fuel filter, new fuel pump. And a few other things.

Seems like and felt like I’ve got my 1990 3VZE running about as good as it can get. She’ll chirp the tires and get down the road pretty good.

Well that all sounds good until last week when I went over the hump to Pahrump, first time since I did all this work and good lord it was embarrassing, glad it’s two lanes now because I had to drop all the way down to third gear to make it. That slow progressive grade just killed me, 35 mph the last mile to summit. For a minute I thought I was going to drop to second gear to make it. I was actually passed by a dang semi truck . I maybe had 175-190 pounds of camping gear in the back.

I’ve got 195,000 miles on her now, and never gone inside the engine except to inspect the timing belt.

So I’m wondering those of you that have the 3VZE, is this normal if you live in areas with lots of hills, steep grades etc…?

Or is it time for me to consider a rebuild, cams are flat, low compression, worn rings ? I know I need to do a compression check. But she’s not smoking, maybe burns 1/2 quart every 3000 miles.

Any ideas on why such a loss in power ?

 

What size tires are you running? The last time I did a long uphill grade, I64 heading up Afton Mountain, I had to stay in the right lane too and dropped to 3rd and was screaming at over 4500 rpm's. If you have bigger tires than stock, it would be even worse.

 

Hi trihiker,

I stayed pretty conservative with the tires last year. I was going to do 33X10.50X15’s but decided to stay close to stock with a good mix of off-road capability and highway driving so I went with brand new BF Goodrich AT KO2’s LT235/75R15’s. So I don’t know if that’s enough to bog her down that bad ya know.

If I were to pull my small trailer I can only imagine how bad that would be in those road type conditions.

Tomorrow I’m going to look at a 1994 4Runner with the intention of possibly taking the engine, which has been rebuilt but I’ll strip it down and start over with performance parts, do the crossover pipe delete, bigger throttle body, new heads from LCE and possibly some stuff from DOA engines. The only thing I’m not sure of is how much difference there is between the 1990 & 1994 rotating assembly, if my parts would work with that not affecting the computer. If I’m making sense here.

Thinking back with my original Denso Injectors I don’t remember it being as bad as it was now, and I noticed looking on LCE’s website they’re offering injector cleaning services so I’m thinking maybe I should send them my originals and go back to the single squirter and see what happens.

 

I had 30/9.50's when I last did Afton in Va. My 4runner originally came with 225/75R15's which is probably what yours came with too. I have 31's on now and I bet it would be even worse going up a long grade. The crossover pipe delete is probably your best bet for more power. Not sure how much the others would help but good luck.

 

Yeah copy that, the crossover delete I’m pretty sure I’m gonna have to pull my engine to do it right. That’s what’s got me going to look at this 4Runner tomorrow. I’ll keep mine running and do the rebuild then just swap them. I had some 31” wildpeaks and I could definitely tell the difference over the stocks, mileage wise.

I plan on doing some serious traveling here soon through the rest of the year, Nor Cal, Denver for RMAF and other places and would like to think I can at least maintain speed limits everywhere.

Interesting you experienced the same thing, I don’t want to be that guy ya know. 75 mph freeway speeds and I’m running 30 mph with my flashers on struggling to get up hills and long grades.

This may very well turn into a build thread, any other advice is welcomed. Also would love to hear from other owners with the 3.0 liter and in the 200,000 mile range and how yours is keeping up ? Any maintenance done that keeps you at the speed limits in hilly terrain.

Well I spent the last few hours googling this issue, reading from several other websites and bummer it just is what it is. I never really looked into like now. Best I can understand is the exhaust cat back is probably the single best mod on the 3VZE, and headers. And keeping it tuned up. Short of the 3.4 liter or 5VZE swap which I don’t want to do. .

 

Well you answered it above but I've still gotta wonder if a 3.4 swap wouldn't be equal to or less than ($$$) all the mods you've proposed for a 3.slow??

It's your money and your rig, good luck!

 

Even with all the mods I have done to my 3.0 when you get into some elevation they fall pretty flat in climbing hills when over a mile up in elevation. But opening up the intake and exhaust will let it rev and my engine will hold 80MPH @3,500 RPM in 5th gear with 31" tires on most surfaces so long as I'm under 5280 feet in elevation.

 

Yeah D60 I hear you, been pondering on this all week. It just sucks that’s there’s really no support for the 3VZE in the performance arena ya know. I mean there is but beyond being spendy there’s not much return on investment. Ideally I’d love to pull my engine and set it aside, go back with something (3VZE) that’s totally performance tuned.

Andrew that’s interesting, I’m sure you did all you could and it still suffers on those long pulls.

What’s been going on in my mind is that, maybe, maybe a total redesign of the intake manifold, some stiffer springs and decent cams would really cure the problem with a decent built bottom end. Something along the lines of an LS type manifold with a slightly bigger throttle body type deal.

I guess after smog this year, if I can get my classic plates back I may try something.

 

Back in the day when I was involved racing a 7S Toyota with my good friend Mike Falkoski, back in the 80's, we would often wonder what the heck it was that Cal Wells and TRD had done with Ivan's truck before it was retired for the PPI 015 Class 1 Trophy truck that replaced it. Because we were flogging a 22R for all it was worth and Ivan would come screaming through a pit stop designated area of the course and that motor had the sweetest whine to it and was pushing well over 5K. Well come to find out the bottom end of that engine was a 3VZ-E but the heads were merged onto that block and had some serious work done to them and might have been the ones from the Cressida with the variable tuned port runner game going on with 24 valves etc. So they were nothing even close to a stock set of valve gear. But your thinking is spot on if you can get some hotter cams and bump up the valve springs and turn the motor at more RPM's it will make power for sure. My motor is completely different from my sons basically stock mill in how the power and torque are very different and all for just doing the DT header and putting FIPK's on both of the engines. Swapping out the VAFM with a Supra or Cressida unit and moving the trace laden PCB's from the OEM unit to one of these has to help get more air into the motor as the 3VZ-E shares the same VAFM that the 22R has which is kind of bean counter move on Toyota's want for economy of scale with the 3VZ-E really being a stop gap engine to fill the void for a V6 before for the eventuality of the 5VZ-E. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=catO6z4xMYc You can really hear that motor go when he gets her out on the open flat planes of Baja in this footage. That 3VZ-E based engine was running and beating out the Class 8's with real American Iron V8's with double the horse power. Just goes to show you how the balance is so important to be competitive!...

 

I didn’t know that Andrew, now I see where you get inspiration/motivation to go where you’ve gone with your 4Runner. She’s sweet and I admire what you’ve done no doubt ! I think it’s one of the sweetest Gen 2’s here.

That’s pretty awesome, Thanks for posting that video, boy is he flying across the desert and that’s impressive to think what he did back then !

Our pick a part now has updates on incoming vehicles so I’m constantly watching. My wife’s not to keen on the idea but if a 90-91 comes into the yard I’m going to try and snatch a complete motor.

There’s a lot of good reading out there on the 3VZE and what guys have done and are doing. I’ve spent countless hours reading, taking notes and bookmarking everything that I think is going to be useful pertaining to building something in the 225-250 horsepower range.

 

This is good stuff guys. I recently acquired a 1994 4Runner 5-speed manual 125000 miles. It was supposed to have been a basket case since according to the previous owner "it don't run". I got a pretty good deal on it with a spare engine for $600 bucks. A new set of plugs and wires with the timing adjusted and it pretty much runs great.
So much for the back story. I'm no wrench so I would appreciate some things that could, should, be done to make it roadworthy and reliable enough to do some backroad trails in my neighborhood of SE Arizona.
Thanks in advance for any tips from you old 3VZE hands.

 

Pics to go with the above

 

Great deal on that Ironguy, how much does he want for the green corvette ? I’d say if it’s running good with what you’ve done so far maybe check the frame mounted fuel filter, if it’s original I’d consider replacing that. It’s mounted on passenger side the inside of the frame kinda in between the door pillar for location.

Congrats !

 

Ironguy, this is what I did when bought my new to me, used 4R.

Replaced the fuel filter, air filter, engine oil and filter. Replaced the spark plugs, wires and cap and rotor and check the ignition timing.

Inspect all of the fluid levels under the hood, brake fluid, clutch fluid, coolant, power steering fluid.

Inspect the belts for cracks, inspect the vacuum hoses for cracks especially at the ends of the small hoses. If you find any cracks buy 15’ of the hose and replace each hose one at a time. Vacuum leaks can cause all sorts of issues.

If you have any records, check to see when the timing belt was changed, sometimes there is a sticker under the hood showing a date and mileage.

Check for codes.

Grease the front and rear driveshaft u-joints. Twist and shake the shafts, there should be no play in the u-joints. Check the oil levels in the differentials, transfer case and transmission. Inspect the CV shaft boots for leaking grease. Inspect the ball joints and tie rod end boots for leaking grease.

I am sure I have missed something, but these are the big items to start with.

Good luck!

 

Thanks @Justthemechanic !!

 

I have a great interest in "
loss of power on long uphill graded roads....my 3VZE completely fresh rebuilt. up paved long hills,
lucky to not have to go below 3rd gear. Getting passed by semi trucks. I'm passing emissions, no mods. Toyota /Denso filter & new MAF large rubber hoses. No Vac leaks. Midas CAT, Midas Muffler.

 

That is very unusual to have engine problems at 125K ..a basket case? Strange. You have a spare 3VZE also?
I'm in Mesa