My dealer inflated my Dunlop At20's to 55 psi!

Situation normal. Dealer techs love to inflate tires sky high. I’ve found this to be true at different ones and different brands. I don’t understand this as it even takes more time to add the extra air per tire and they hate spending time on anything.

 

This is the way. I had mine delivered with all the plastic protection inside and out. The people they have prep the car simply don’t care.

 

And, any tire at the stock size and load range should be run at that PSI.

The proper pressure for tires of a different size or load range can be calculated here:

 

I assume @Overland WT was referring to max inflation. Although, maximum inflation for SL tires is usually 51 (I think), LT/C are 50 PSI, and LT/E are 80 PSI. But, obviously, no-one should ever run that PSI on a 4Runner.

 

50-55psi is normal for storing / delivery. It is part of the Pre delivery service to reduce this to correct air pressure before delivering to the customer along with other list of items.

 

The recommended preassure in the door jam is also for the most "cushy" ride. A plus when test driving.

 

As a follow-up to wrap this thread up, I set tire pressure down to 32 psi all round. It has a very cushy drive and what I had expected as a starting point.
Next step, choose some better all-terrain tires. Lots of folks seem to like the BFG K02's. For me it will be a question of how much "cush" I'll lose as to how radical to get. Thinking about trips with the wife.
Cheers and thanks everyone for the informative and funny posts,
Randy

 

They overinflate the tires for transport.

Dealer should air them down.

 

There are a bunch of really good AT options right now. Stick to an SL load range and ride quality shouldn't be too bad!

 

I plan to look for tires that folks don’t have issues balancing, I believe the 4Runner shimmy complaints often end up because of tires not balancing. From my time at Tacomaworld, K02s seem like a good choice. However, I haven’t done any research on 4Runner tires yet.

 

To me; this is a " figure it out on your own" issue. Way too many variables to consider. For God's sake, experiment on your own, which you'll probably do anyway, and not be led by others. That is, if you give your own thinking any credit!

 

Same thing happened to me on my 2020. I drove it hundreds of miles, much at high speeds, before I bothered to check the PSI. It's something I ordinarily check when bringing home a new car, along with the oil level etc., but I spaced it this time. Tires were over 50 PSI. I assume they are overinflated on purpose during transport or from the factory, since they typically sit for weeks or months before delivery. No doubt the dealer is supposed to check and adjust at time of delivery, but apparently they often ain't that careful about such things (what a shocker, huh?)

But I wouldn't worry one bit. Tires are designed to take way more abuse than that.

 

People rave about the Fallen Wildpeaks, though I've also seen several balancing complaints about them (though maybe just because a lot of 4R owners run them?). Anyway, I'm happy with the ride on my Pirelli Scorpion ATs. Quiet on the road too, expec given how aggressive the tread looks. Haven't had a chance to test them in rain or snow yet, but their def good on the ride and handling front. No odd vibrations either, though I do have steering wheel shimmy most (but not all) of the time at highway speeds. So going to get Road Force balancing soon.

 

Dealership PDI this days are laughable. My Toyota dealership salesman says all that's done for PDI is walk around the vehicle, remove the plastic wraps, lay mats and run SUV through automated brush car wash. Drive 2 miles and set odometer.

 

Agreed. I take in all the data but then make my own decision. For us here in Cal-lie-4-nye-ay, for a not too aggressive AT seems like only 3-4 to choose.

 

Here's some visuals for your data input - Falken Wildpeaks in stock size, P-rated:




Currently at 34 psi.

 

Can you get some photos at 55 psi, give that fresh from the dealership comparison.

 

This is incorrect.

The pressure in the door jamb is always used for tires that are the stock size and load range. This is based on GVWR. your tire pressure should NEVER be based on the tire's max inflation.

Proper pressure for tires of a different load range or size than stock can be calculated at the link in my earlier post.

 

Nope. They were at 48 when I picked the truck up at Discount Tire after getting the new tires, though, which was surprising to me.

 

Dam I’ve already dropped mine down to 45, now I’ll never know. Thanks for trying.

 

You just contradicted yourself. The door jam is for the OEM installed tires. That rate is based on GVWR of that particular vehicle by the vehicle manufacturer AND tire manufacturer. Obviously if you set it up for overlanding and add 300lbs in bumpers, 100lb in a winch, roof rack, 10g of external fuel, camping gear, self rescue gear, 10g external water, people, dogs... the GVWR changes and so too should the psi for that application.

In addition, as an example... the BFG KO2 comes in a C, D and E load, so each tire would have a different operating and max psi.

I stand slightly corrected
265/70/17 C and D are the same - Max load 2,470lbs at 50psi - applicable for T4R
265/70/17 E is 3,195lbs at 80psi - Better suited for truck applications

 

I don't believe I did.

...AND any tire in the same size and load range. The number in the door jamb is based on tire size and load range. So, any tire that is the same size and load range will be run at the same pressure, regardless of manufacturer.

Incorrect. Any tire in the stock size and load range should be run at that pressure.

The GVWR is unaffected by whatever accessories you add. GVWR is the maximum weight for the vehicle, passengers, cargo and accessories. It can't be changed.

You might be thinking of curb weight. But, that's not what GVWR is.

Yes, this is what I'm saying. Tires that match the OEM tire size and load range should be run at the PSI specified in the door jamb. Any other size or load range can be calculated in the link on my earlier post.

Edit: maybe you are confusing load range with maximum inflation?

 

I think it’s ridiculous that you would have to police your own tire inflation pressures because the dealership can’t be bothered, which makes me wonder what other things they are neglecting.

Be that as it may, I am more troubled with my experiences with Toyota dealers that will overinflate your tires when you bring it in for an oil change and tire rotation. There is no excuse for that.

It seems like the people with the least amount of experience and responsibility are always delegated to tasks such as those.

 

Yeah, in my experience it seems like they set the PSI at 35 no matter what. Even when you tell them not to mess with the pressure.

 

I will give them the benefit of the doubt. Perhaps they over inflate on purpose knowing it is easier to lower the pressure than to ADD air. That way, the customer can deflate to whatever pressure they choose to. It would bother me more if they under inflated. I always check my pressure regularly, and, whenever my wheels have been balanced or tires replaced. Maybe they assume the customer is smart enough to do so.
I, personally have always run at the level suggested in the door jam and have experienced perfect tread wear. On occasion, I might add or lower a couple pounds depending on what I'm doing.
To each their own. My practice is based on my own experience.

 

So far my local dealer seems pretty good. They do the detailing/cleaning in house and tire pressure was set at 35 when I picked it up.

 

After I purchased my 4Runner new I brought it to the dealer for the first 4 services. Each time something was done wrong or damaged. Stripped skid plate bolts, missing bolts, battered hub caps, tires inflated too high, missing stem caps, only 2 of 4 tires rotated, oil filter housing cranked on ultra tight.
I got tired of return visits to correct the problems they created. Now I do all my own routine maintenance.

I spoke to the service manager there and two others I happened to meet socially and they all said the same thing: they are plagued by bad oil change/ tire rotators. It’s the typical dealer business model. Their best experienced higher paid techs don’t do oil changes. That job is given to the low pay, inexperienced, new hires. They work on a time and quantity based commission where more services per hour equals more pay. So they rush. And the turnover rate is high so there’s always a supply of oil changers who are short timers that don’t give a crap about their job or your car.

It’s better to DIY or go to a good independent that cares about their reputation.

 

Woah! I'm in SF bay area as well. Please tell me which dealer did that so I can avoid them in case I might be close by. Feel free to pm me if you're hesitant to call them out here.

 

Mine came at 55 psi as well from the dealer. Realized it a few days of driving later and aired down to 35 psi.. that’s where I find a happy medium with all my tires..