Toyota.ARK 5th Gen TRD ORP with KDSS Thread

New member here...I hope I am posting correctly?

Today I attempted to install the Anytime Back-Up camera supplied by Rigd on my 2020 TRD Pro. Despite several emails with Rigd (who are very responsive) I was unable to successfully install the camera. I then reverted to the original connectors at the back of the head unit and now I receive error codes for LDA, Precollision and TPMS as well the existing backup camera does not work when I shift into reverse.

Admittedly I lack electronics skills and not sure what has caused this?

I disconnected the negative lead from the battery in an attempt to reset the ECU however this was unsuccessful.

Visted the dealer said they cleared codes however when I started the truck the codes reappeared. Booked in for this Tues. Any suggestions?

 

I’d check for blown fuses. Also what was your issue that occurred when trying to install the kit. I don’t think I caught that in your storyline.

 

Thanks for your reply.

To elaborate today's attempt was my 2nd at installing the backup camera.

The 1st attempt I followed the video created by Rigd however after emailing Rigd I learned the 2020 head unit is different. Originally I installed the 28 pin connectors in the 2 of the 3 slots nearest driver side. I also connected the red wire on the RCA connection to the red wire on the other connector and grounded on bare metal near the driver's side foot rest. However this set up did not work (no camera image) so I reverted to the factory connectors and everything worked fine i.e. no error msgs.

This time the instructions were to use the 2 slots closes to the passenger side and to connect the orange wire part of the RCA connection to the red wire of the adjacent connector and to ground to the head unit bracket.

I did this carefully but no camera display so I removed the Rigd connectors, the ground and reinstalled the factory connectors and not I get the error msgs noted above.

So disappointing.

 

So I pulled the trigger on the heritage grill this week. Took two days to get here with standard shipping.

Part Numbers:
Grille,Radiator,UPR - PZ327-35056
Garnish,FR Bumper - PZ323-35058
(Nameplate)


FYI, there’s a ton of people who have asked if the 2021 nameplate accepts TSS sensor, the answer is yes.


I’ll have install photos later on. Just letting the cat out of the bag.

 

As promised, here’s the final shot.

 

So I moved out of NY and into KY this last year and made some significant changes to “Grey.” Where to start?

New items since the last update:
1. OME BP-51 Kit (Heavy Duty 897)

2. Gear Plate with CFX3 55IM Fridge

3. Rago Hidden Winch Mount
w/Warn 12s winch

4. CBI Full Steel Skid w/Fuel Tank
5. RRW RR7 17x8.5” -12 offset w/KO2s

6. KJTO Driverside Grab Handle

7. Off-Grid Engineering Dual Battery
8. Dr.KDSS Bolton Trackbar Correction

9. Solidifi3D Rear Storage Cover Set
10. AJC Underhood Lighting Kit

11. CarTrimHome Rear Cargo Shelf

 

Finally pulled the trigger on some Lasfit floor mats and boy am I impressed. It’s like taking your home from carpeted to hardwood. Spray it down to clean instead of steaming or vacuuming.

 

Well, I also pulled the trigger on the Durobumps

front: DBF212 3” Lift
Rear: DBR425 3” Lift 4.25



Kroil Penetrating Oil is a must when removing the fronts. Shout out to 5Eight Fab of Louisville for pitching a late inning and fixing the broken bolt.

 

My Carven Dump Exit Exhaust finally delivered. Glad to have added it to the rig. Perfect idle note and sporty acceleration too.

see the details on insta:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CqjZJaJt6yu/

 

Soooo, this happened this past week. I finally upgraded the front axle with the X-Line, from Powerbrake, and rear axle with their D-line. And wow, what a difference they make with all the constant weight considered. I was blown way by how little the original pads had left and how rusted out the front rotors were. There’s no way they released heat effectively.

Overall, the job was pretty easy and the only issues I have was there isn’t an easier way to swap the brake lines to prevent spilling and air invasion. That’s out of the control of Powerbrake, however Toyota could have easily used a quick connection coupler or something.

Front X-Line:


Rear D-Line:


The Finished Look


Overall thoughts is that this system puts stopping power at the front quarter inch of the peddle action. Where the factory feel is more of “sliding the pads” until the foot is at the middle-back half of the pressing action. Also, I’m about 1Klbs of constant weight and the first issue I have is that the truck was running away when going downhill in lower gears; however, these brakes slow and stop the truck immediately (with little effort) and corrects it’s pace perfectly.

Also, I’ve noticed the factory brakes running about 200-250 degrees after in city driving and with these the calipers are always around 90-100 and the rotors are 100-125. There’s a massive heat release going on. I can’t wait to go through the Kentucky mountains soon to test the brake fade, because the Lord knows that I constantly had that problem since the truck was new coming down passes.

Anyways, Cheers! to Powerbrake for adding effectiveness, efficiency, and safety back the truck. Highly recommend them and thanks to Delon for all the help.

 

Nice mods. Your 4R is very similar to mine. I went with the OME BP-51 lift as well. You can see the full history of my build at the link below.