KDSS spacers and skid plates

Hi community,

2018 4Runner TRD Offroad Premium with KDSS.

So here is the build we are doing:
*ARB skids
*Front Bilstein 6112’s set at 2.7” lift
*Rear Bilstein 5100’s
*Rear Bilstein 1” lift coils
*ICON adjustable rear track bar
*ICON Tubular rear upper and lower trailing arms
*Bilstein UCAs
*White Knuckle Rocksliders
*Treat Oak front KDSS Spacers
*285/70r17 GY Duratracs

This will not be a mall crawler. This rig has been out on difficult trails with our first build. Has anyone had issues with the KDSS spacers causing the front sway bar to hit the skid plate? If so, any work arounds or skid plates designed to work withe KDSS spacers. Additionally, with the 2.7” front lift, should we lower the front diff?

Thanks’s for any feedback.

 

Why are you doing spacers in the first place? Leveling? I don't have anything against using spacers on difficult trails, but if you intentionally got KDSS, it might depreciate the on-road value of having it.

 

The spacers lower the sway bar to keep it more level on a lifted vehicle. The spacers shouldn't affect handling. But, the primary benefit of KDSS is better articulation off-road.

 

You need atleast KDSS spacers or after market track bar to avoid KDSS bracket hitting sway bay.

Also this will help on the down travel so KDSS 4Runners will also have down travel as the non KDSS 4Runners after lift.

Update (adding pic to show this problem) -

 

Definitely on the same page there, I've checked out TOO's stuff as well. I'm just a little weary about altering geometry in general- OP mentioned only the Front Spacers.

 

Odd, my kdss piston isn't anywhere near that close to my (stock) sway bar. Even at full compression. I remember checking that when I added my Eibach load level sytem. Hmmm

 

I'm guessing that it's because he's only lifting the rear an inch. My understanding is that the spacers are only necessary if you are going with extended travel shocks.

 

Gotcha. Again, this community is great. Sometimes there's competing info.

 

It is! And, I could be wrong. I'm just guessing most of the time.

 

Sorry I couldn't provide any useful information to the original question. My front skid was custom.

I would imagine some of the aftermarket skids have left a little extra space in there. I just wouldn't chance it. I wonder if any of the skid manufacturers have thought about this.

Maybe an Email to Treaty Oak would clear things up. They might have heard this question before.

 

From what I see;
1. Iif KDSS is not lifted more that 1in rear there will be no issues.

2. But if this spacer or after market track bar is added KDSS can get down travel just like non KDSS when lifted.

 

Treaty Oak are the ones who warned me this maybe a problem but it’s skid to skid and depends.

 

Aha. Hopefully someone here has experience with them.

 

Supposedly they clear RCI skids but I’ll let you know in a couple of weeks.

 

Ok thanks! From looking at the ARB ones they seem like there is a good amount of space in there now but I’m not sure how much the bar flexes down as it is now. Maybe some has that number?

 

I'm installing the front kdss spacer today but keeping the stock skid for now. Planning to just cut it to make it fit. Don't plan on getting new skids until the stock one is badly banged up.

I could let you know how it goes and how much I cut, but not sure if you'd be interested in keeping the stock skid at all?

 

Please do let me know how it goes. We have the ARB KDSS skids on there now.

 

KDSS hit my stock skid after putting the spacers on. I just trimmed down the notches for the sway bar on the skid plate a bit. It still hits from time to time. I’d think spacing the skid plate would solve most or all of these problems, but haven’t installed my diff drop yet

 

Finished. Didn't touch the shutter valves at all like some instructions say to do. The sway bar touches the very corner of the skid plate. Here is how much I cut (After and Before):

 

Thanks! I might just cut out that side lip down to the plate. I’ve not done a diff drop on a 4runner, do the kits include hardware lower the skid?

 

I'm lifted the same amount you plan on doing. The cv angles are great, didn't need a diff drop. Personally, I would hold off on that until you get the lift done first. I'll snap a pic of the cv angle tomorrow and show you.

 

Good thinking! There is really no reason to open it. I would bet some people have actually caused a lean by messing with it.

 

Not bad at all in my opinion.

 

Looks good!

 

@blksubykid

Did you have a chance to see if the RCI skids clear the KDSS sway bar with the Treaty Oak spacers? I have RCI skids (KDSS specific, steel) and am getting a 2 to 2.5" front lift (1.5 to 2" rear lift) in the next few weeks and want to see if the spacers will work w/ RCI skids. Thanks!

 

So when adding KDSS spacers the shutter valve doesn’t need to be backed out 2 turns? Does that just allow the hydraulic fluid to move freely while installing spacers, which should make installations easier.
I have treaty oak and plan to do my lift this weekend.
I was also told to back shutter valve out on my 2022 4Runner.
I just don’t want to cause any issues.

 

I don't see any benefit to opening it. If you take apart both sides at the same time, opening the valves won't help. Plus, you're less likely to cause a lean.

This is just my opinion. Do whatever you're comfortable with.

 

Foster
You mentioned you didn’t touch the shudder valves. Was the piston still able to come down easily to match the fixed side with the spacer?
Thanks

 

The only concern I had is if the piston will come down freely without force to match the fixed side with the spacer.
If the shutter valve are open does it matter if it’s on the ground or up on a lift.
I’ll be using a lift. Exit off-road instructions say off ground on jack stands.
Do you know what causes the lean after opening shutters?

thanks

 

If the tires are on level ground, the sway bar will be level. If not, the piston moves with the sway bar.

I would recommend doing one sway bar at a time. The piston should sit at the same height as the stationary link as long as the other axle stays level.