Help! 2021 4Runner won’t start!

Since the battery could be considered as a reservoir for amperage, I would have thought you would be okay there. But today's electronics are very picky when it comes to power. The newer generations of airliners I have worked on are extremely picky when it comes to power. It would seem too picky.

 

Excellent post! Regarding the winch… When I installed my winch, I was kinda bugged it didnt have a switch to completely isolate it the 12v cable going to the battery. Basically, it’s live all the time. If there is a short, Goodnight Irene! The whole thing goes up in flames.

Now Im bugged about it all over again lol.

Somebody told me the harbor freight winches come with an isolation switch. Why couldnt my Warn come with one?

If I were to look for a switch, do you have any thoughts on how much amperage it should pass (considering shock loads and such)?

 

Good idea to have the winch completely disconnected before using.

Depending on the winch, I've read they can spike as much as 450amps.

Cole Hersee 75907 or something similar should work.

 

That is a good question. My Ironman winch doesn’t have one either. I reached out to Ironman and they are replacing the control box. However, now I am going to get a switch as well. The amperage heavily depends on the winch I would imagine. Mine says:

Motor: 6.4HP / 4.1KWPower:12VDC
That comes out to being 342 amps. The battery they call for is a Minimum Battery for winching - 650CCA.

So these things definitely take a load on the battery. As far as isolation switches. I am thinking less manual labor to pop the hood and turn the switch and looking at something like this:
WARN 62132 Power Interrupt Kit with Battery Lead, Hardware, Solenoid, Switch and Wiring

$93 WARN 62132 Power Interrupt Kit with Battery Lead, Hardware, Solenoid, Switch and Wiring

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQFVN8?_encoding=UTF8

 

@code3runner
OP, at this point you need to disconnect all the lights and revert all the mods. Electrical gremlins are easier to troubleshoot by going the cheapest way up.

 

Thanks for all the posts/help guys!

The truck shit off on The freeway and I was able to coast to the shoulder. I had the truck towed to the closest Toyota dealer. Before the truck shut off it was hard shifting or jolting forward around the 2k RPM mark. Exact same thing that happened prior.

I tried disconnecting my battery cables the same way I did before to reset the system but it was a no go.

So the dealer called and said they got the truck started again. They said it was a blown positive terminal fuse, caused by my aftermarket parts. I’m confused (and open to be enlightened lol) as to how my aftermarket parts caused this fuse to blow when none of my wires are connected to this fuse. I was told that the factory wires are also starting to corrode which is what caused the fuse to blow, in addition to my aftermarket parts

Either way, I’m planning on removing all my accessories when I get the car home.

 

Yeah. Not sure what to believe. Corrosion does NOT blow fuses. Shorts\excess draw does.

Where is this fuse?

You said in your first post you tapped some existing fuses? These fuses still run off a main fuse, correct? So explain how you haven't connected to factory wiring?

Maybe explain better how you connected your aftermarket accessories.

 

Yeah I am confused on how you have your setup as well. Your switch pro should be connected directly to the battery and have a fuse of its own. I assume you have the negative connected directly to the battery. I am happy to share the pics of my switch pro setup if needed.

 

switch pro is connected directly to battery. I have used fuse taps on the interior fuse panel for the accessory lighting on the switch pro. That’s it.

I have not touched or connected anything to the factory positive terminal fuse, they are claiming was blown. All wiring is connected via separate fuses.

 

Hmm that is interesting. Maybe you got a bad switch pro. I really like mine and have had no problems. I got a really short positive cable with my Switch-Pro and maybe yours is touching the ground somewhere?

 

if the switch pro was grounding out it would blow the fuse to the switch pro and the switch pro would not work. All my lights and aftermarket accessories work fine.

I’m gonna talk to the tech who worked on my truck tomorrow. Maybe he will be able to explain a little more than the person I talked to on the phone.