285s on stock Trail Edition Rims

I've convinced the wife to let me lift her Trail Special Edition when it's time for new tires. Now I'm working on convincing her to get 285/70r17 tires. She is pretty adamant about keeping her stock rims. From what I've found they are just the 17x7.5 offroad in a gloss black. I've searched the form and found a couple similar setups but not a lot of information about the rig. I'm curious on 1) what lift size I should be looking at to avoid doing a bmc? and 2) will spacers or different offset rims be need to avoid rubbing the uca?

 

Your alignment and wheel offset will determine whether you need a BMC or trimming. Lift just hides the rubbing until you flex the suspension.

I know some have avoided the BMC by getting as much caster as possible, even going above spec (4.0° +).

If you still want to lift, there are tons of options. Your budget and intended use for the 4Runner can help people make suggestions there.

I think those wheels have a +19mm offset. I can't recall if anyone has run 285's on those wheels without spacers. I'm sure someone else here knows.

Welcome to the forum!

 

I'm assuming upgraded uca's would be required to get those high castor numbers. I think they are +15 offset but I'm not 100%. It's going to on pavement most of the time with occasional light off roading. I've got a couple different options in mind for the lift we would go with depending on height. She wants to keep the stock rims but I've seen people say they rub the uca with the stock offset but then others are running the stock offroad rims. Some say they are running spacers but didn't really specify if it's to avoid uca rub or just to get a more aggressive stance.

 

That will depend on how high you lift it. Usually somewhere between 2.5 - 3" is where UCA's become necessary.

If you're not doing much off-roading, you might not get into situations where it will rub very often. So, it might not be an issue. On the road, my 295's only rubbed lightly when backing up and turning. But, then, I was making a tight turn off camber and pretty much tore one of the mudflaps clean off.

I personally wouldn't have any concerns about using hub spacers. There are name brand ones that are pretty common and don't cause problems. You could always order a set after the tires if you find that you're rubbing UCA's.

 

That's probably the route we will have to go. I know she would have a aneurysm if we pulled out of a parking lot and lost a mudflap that way lol.

 

Specifications:

• TRD Offroad Premium Wheels:
• Factory OEM
• Material: Aluminum
• Style: 7 Spoke
• Finish: Grey or Black Machined
• Dimensions: 17 inch x 7.5 inch
• Diameter: 17 inch
• Width 7.5 inch
• Number of Lugs: 6
• Bolt Pattern: 5.5 Inch
• Offset: +15mm
• Backspace: 4.5″
• Part Numbers: 4261135540, 4261135580
• Weight: 25lbs

I've read of a multitude of 4R owners running 285s on these wheels. Hopefully some of those will chime in.

 

I was close.

 

"Missed it by THAT much..."

 

I have 285's on Trail rims. I've run them with and without wheel spacers. I have wheel spacers at the moment just to widen the track width a little.

You don't need any lift to clear the body mounts. It has more to do with alignment, like @Thatbassguy said. The more caster you have, the further you get away from the body mounts. The more lift you have, the less caster you can get with the stock UCA's. I recommend a mild lift (anywhere from 1-1.75") so that you can still get a good amount of caster with your stock UCAs.

I have a 1.6" lift and maxed the caster out at 3.6 degrees with the stock UCA's. No body mount chop but I did need to do the fender liner mod. If you want to know more about that, I can go into detail........it's a really easy mod.

Trail wheels have a good offset to avoid as much rubbing as possible with your stock components. You don't need spacers or a lower offset wheel with 285's and stock UCA's. If you do add spacers or a lower offset wheel, you increase the chance of rubbing the fenders/mudflaps/body mount due to the increase in scrub radius of your larger/wider tires.

 

The whole enchilada,

My Bfg's are on Pro rims.

Lift: Front: Dobinsons IMS59-50700 shocks - coils C59-302 - 2.7/3.0" - Rear: shocks IMS59-50705 - Coils C59-505 - 1.7". No Upper Control Arms needed. Lift with tires Bfg KO 2 - 285/70/17 installed around a 3.6" lift; works wonders, no BMC, no rubbing even with rock-crawling.

I support & promote small businesses, with honest owners selling good equipment. I have no affiliation or financial benefits in any way, shape or form.

Call Mike great guy, lots of knowledge. Highly recommended. Mike is a Resident member on this Forum.

Mike
Exit Offroad
904-580-7510
https://exitoffroad.com

 

Awesome, that was my main concern was rubbing on the uca with the stock wheels. I wasn't wanting to go too crazy with a lift and was looking at the bilstein 6112 set to 1.6 to 2 inches or Dobinsons IMS at 1.8 so I'm glad to here I don't necessarily have to jump up to the 3 inch lift.

 

or like me, you could aim for a 2 inch lift, and end up closer to 3. Which is fine with me lol.

 

I tried to convince her on the 3 inch lift and got shot down haha. She doesn't want to feel like she is climbing a ladder to put kids in there in the future.

 

My 3in was a surprise. Got the 2.5 inch springs for my dobs IMS shocks, expecting to settle to 2 1/4 or 2in with a winch and warn bumper. Nope, stayed near 3 inches. Seems like a lot of lift kits either run high, or some 4runners are lower than average to begin with

 

This fella runs 285s on his stock Trail wheels. He's doing just fine. He is lifted, of course.

His videos are loads of fun to watch!

 

Mine where a bit high as well. Some members are saying the lift will settle; I'm on the same height as the first day installed; 4500 miles done with the lift - Mostly off-roading.

 

Jim Rose is a top driver off-roader. This guy drove Poughkeepsie Gulch with his 4R. I tried that trail with a much more capable vehicle and got stuck, unbelievable he pulled that off. Shows the prowess of the 4R in the hands of an expert.

 

Kind a funny, that some say KO 2's are not that good in off-roading or in mud & rain.

 

Are you running the springs for the stock weight or the additional weight?

 

C59-302 – Stock – 2.5″ | with 110-150lbs – 2″ with winch & bumper.
1.5″ – Rear with stock weight. I had 1.7" rear

 

That makes me a little hesitant of that lift if it didn't settle at all. I'm definitely wanting to try and keep it at 2" or just below.

 

You could go with the C59-300 – Stock front end, 1.75-2.0″ lift or you can work with your shocks IMS59-50705 suitable for 0 – 3″ of lift. These have an adjustable lower coil seat to fine tune lift height or any lean in the vehicle.

 

I was looking at the c59-300 set for the 1.8"ish lift option and then going with 1 inch in the rear. I'm just not wanting to get into the extra .5" to 1" territory that some others have gotten out of them

 

Any time someone brings them up, a handful of folks who think they're smarter than everyone else show up to crap all over them. I was even told that I only thought they were good because I didn't know any better.

The fact is that thousands of people are putting millions of miles on them and are satisfied. I enjoyed mine for 29K miles, and my buddy is continuing to enjoy them on his Ranger.

 

You could save some money by going Bilstein 5100 or Eibach adjustable shocks with your stock coils up front. Set them to 1.75" (Bilstein) or 1.6" (Eibach) Then a 0.5" spacer for the rear coils.

Both shocks are plenty capable for the uses you describe in your first post in this thread.

I personally like the Eibach's better. Really good road manners and they are plenty capable for mild/mid-grade offroading.

 

Yep, would be good.

 

I'm wanting to avoid the 5100s. I have them on my pickup and they ride pretty rough (granted they are on the highest setting). I was trying to avoid tensioning the spring to get the lift. That's why I was leaning towards the dobinsons options.

 

Why would an oem spring on a slightly higher spring seat be under any more 'tension' than one on the stock spring seat? If it were compressed, you wouldn't get any lift. The weight of the 4Runner stays the same either way.

 

5100's are just valved a little stiffer, in my experience. Some people like it and have no issues with them. I love them on certain vehicles, but didn't like them on the 4Runner.

This is why I like the Eibach's better for our trucks. The main difference is they have a bleeder valve so low speed hits are smoothed out when compared to the 5100. All and all they offer a nice comfortable controlled ride without being too bouncy/rolly like the stock shocks or too stiff like the 5100's.

Also, if you're set on a lift coil, Toytec offers a 1.6" lift coil for our trucks. The coil is made by Eibach and it's the lowest lift coil I've found. Everything under that is the lower spring perch style of lift or a spacer lift.

 

My 5100s aren't terrible but you definitely feel everything in the road. I know I want something a little smoother for the 4runner since it's the vehicle we take on trips. I can't stand the nose dive and body roll on the stock setup. I will have to look into the toytec springs as well.